Please can someone advise on what enfine and gearbox oil to use for my 1993 t/t. I use it for short journey to work and weekends for kicking my mates supras ass ha ha . I am bit confused as so many advices on what one to use . am i right in thinking 15-50 is right fully synthetic?? and what about gearbox and diff.

 

Also how easy it to change rear diff oil and front diff oil ( or is it part of engine??) and the gearbox oil ?? Also where can i go to get amounts to put in.

 

Help !!! :mac1:

LOL They are even coming all the way from Oz to argue on this thread,but I bet he does not give a Castlemine XXXX what others think :rofl: Welcome Jaques.

There are some very wrong statements made here so let put them right:-

 

As previously said a 10/40, 10/50 or 10/60 are all the same thickness.

 

The first grading - 10 - indicates how the oil will flow when cold, and in my attachment shows this to be down to -20. The second number 40, 50 or 60 indicates the viscosity, and the higher this number the more temperature the molcules can take before losing their elasticity.

 

So if you use a 10/40, there is no harm in using a 10/60, it will benefit you as it can take a much higher operating temperature.

 

The Nissan chart just given by Simon even shows a 15/50 oil.

I would not use 15/50 because "15" is too thick for our requirements, and would cause problems, as over pressure within the engine, and poor flow from cold.

 

Leigh.

Seems daft to me to ignore the advice from the manufacturers who spent loads on research and a guy who has posted loads of reasonable, technically backed up advice for gut feelings etc.

Mac 1

Why don't you just take Kay for a ride?

Never driven another ZX - Why not scare the shite out of someone?

Jaques

Leigh.

 

The charts published are not mine, they are the manufacturers and are correct in stating that 10w and 15w can be used from -20 degC and above. It is however true that 10w will give better cold start protection.

 

I'm afraid you are wrong about the sae 40, 50 and 60 as these are important numbers. If an oil is too viscous for the car at high temperatures then it can cause wear and long term damage.

 

An SAE 60 is heavier than most SAE 90 gear oils. If an oil is too thick, it de-aerates slowly, leading to cavitation in the oil pump, or the bearings being fed slugs of air along with the oil. Modern pumps do not need oils this thick. We are not talking Ford 1960's designed pumps here afterall.

 

Thick oils are more difficult to pump through the engine. This means more friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction means more heat and you may actually be causing more heat build-up within the engine. It will still provide adequate protection from metal to metal contact but will raise engine temperatures.

Over the long term, when engine components are run at higher temperatures, they will wear out more quickly.

 

I disagree that you can simply ignore the second number, it's equally important as the first cold viscosity number.

 

Cheers

Simon

do all oil threads end up in most people being non the wiser. bin checking out others from before and there's alway's disagrement :confused:.

oh and topless's secret oil is :x:

Nobody said ignore the second number???

 

I said ignore 15/50 from Nissan. This means in the sense for the UK 15/50 is too thick. Nissan have to cover grades of oil for all countries and climates.

 

We need a 10 grade oil.

 

I also quite carefully stated that the 40, 50 and 60 relate to the viscosity.

Please re read SIMON.

 

I have just spoken to Millers and they will provide me with an email from their Chemist as too why a 10/60 is recommended over 0 grade oils.

 

One reason already given for using the 10/60 over 10/40 for High performance / Modified and Competion engines is that the oil can cope better with Fuel Dilution. This occurs because some fuel will always get passed the rings and into the sump. This especially occurs on Turbo cars which have higher compression than normal aspirated engines, when the turbo is on boost.

 

A 0 grade is too thin for the car and is not neseaary for our weather climate.

 

Leigh.

Leigh you talk some crap.

"0" oil grade is great for your low temperature - remember that is the viscosity when cold.

iIt pumps easily around the engine.

Heavy grade 50 or 60 oil (when hot) is far too thick.

Oil should be free flowing and not a grease.

Old engines designed in the 70's are different.

Jaques

There's a lot of tension on this thread, anyone got any massage oil? :D

Topless come over here and I'll get some hot chick to rub some MILLERS OIL in to ya tender bits... :D :D

BTW I will be going with Millers or Castrol oil after my experience with the Silkolene Pro 10/50 after my engine has been sorted out again.

So if you use a 10/40, there is no harm in using a 10/60, it will benefit you as it can take a much higher operating temperature.

Leigh.

 

This is the statement I am referring to as not correct.

 

I have always recommended 10w oils here, please read my threads.

 

There is no benefit for me to recommend people the wrong oil and my original recommendations of some 6 months ago still stand.

 

Oh and I do sell Castrol RS 10w-60 but do not recommend it here.

 

Cheers

Simon

You can tell it was Guy Fawkes night, what does it say about light the blue touch paper :D

 

Guys let me play Devils advocate here, if you will entertain me!

 

Paul C you use Semi Syn and you need a new turbo/s?

 

 

 

Guys don't take this personally and if I am incorrect I apologise, but these are just a list of people off the top of my head, God knows how many more are out there :cry:

 

 

huh????????

 

i dont *need* new turbos, i *want* bigger turbos!!! :tongue:

 

still going strong on origional tubs after 110k miles ;) :dance:

I am told Magnatec is very good.

Don't know about the magnetic part - especially since most of it is aluminium alloy and not really magnetic, but Mercedes would not authorise it unless it's good.

Jaques

 

Mercs dont "authorise" it. we only use Mobil in the UK. it may however meet mercs specifications, as do many other makes. (may be different down under ;) )

 

As previously said a 10/40, 10/50 or 10/60 are all the same thickness.

 

 

 

Leigh.

 

hmmm, lets look.

 

10W40 vs 10W60

 

10W indicates the viscosity of the oil when cold so they are the same thickness when cold (0 would be thinner, 15 would be thicker)

 

40 or 60 indicates viscosity when hot, therefore the 60 grade remains thicker when hot

You can tell it was Guy Fawkes night, what does it say about light the blue touch paper :D

 

Guys let me play Devils advocate here, if you will entertain me!

 

Paul C you use Semi Syn and you need a new turbo/s?

 

Mac you use RS10-60 and you got a cracked piston land, although it was nothing to do with the oil.

 

Duff again uses RS10-60 and engine RIP!

 

CJ had a knacked engine and if he had his zed serviced at SE nissan, I presume he put RS10-60 in it?

 

Also making a presumption so correct me if I am wrong, but didn't 51x have a rebuild and also use RS10-60?

 

Stuart cracked piston and used RS10-60?

 

Jock you use Magnatec and if I remember right you had an engine rebuild?

 

Guys don't take this personally and if I am incorrect I apologise, but these are just a list of people off the top of my head, God knows how many more are out there :cry:

 

Mark these were/are all also some of the quickest cars on the forum go figure :confused:

Not before the rebuilds :D

Leigh you talk some crap.

"0" oil grade is great for your low temperature - remember that is the viscosity when cold.

iIt pumps easily around the engine.

Heavy grade 50 or 60 oil (when hot) is far too thick.

Oil should be free flowing and not a grease.

Old engines designed in the 70's are different.

Jaques

 

Nobody was arguing a "0" is thinner than a "10" grade oil???

But your next statement is a classic

 

When hot a 40 will be thinner than a 60, or course thats why it can handle the temperatures generated by the turbos much better than the 10/40.

 

It's a misconception an oil gets thicker as it gets hotter. It changes state, but it doesn't get thicker.

 

I suggest Jacques you go back and re read some proper technical documentation on multigrade oils, especially synthetics. As the second number has no relation to thickness but its ability to withstand temperature, and relates to the molecule elasticity.

 

As mentioned I will be getting an email from one of the main Chemists from Millers with details on oils and there suitablility to different engines, and why a "0" grade is not good for here in the UK. They will not testify one manufacturers oil to another for obvious liable reasons. This will be a straight answer to grades, and suitability, and why "0" grade although thin, is too thin for our engines.

 

Leigh.

Guns don't kill people "OIL DOES" Quote Goldie Lookin' Chain....

I use castrol magnatec.

 

I'm gonna start using that in mine. Used that in my Saab Turbo and my Supra and never had any problems at all. Now using it in the Renault 5 Turbot and will be putting it in the MR-2 Turbot.

 

Can't be ar$ed with all this "use this grade for winter and then use this grade for summer" malarkey FFS! :D

 

It's a road car not a bl00dy F1 or Rally car.

 

Great debate though! PMSL :D

I'm gonna start using that on mine.

 

Great to masturbate with PMSL :D

 

WTF LMFAO cheaper than vaseline I suppose Timmy :tongue: :tongue: :rofl:

WTF LMFAO cheaper than vaseline I suppose Timmy :tongue: :tongue: :rofl:

 

LMFAO :D

 

You lot crack me up, isn't there enough conflict going on at this moment in time over oil? :D

 

Sad f\/ckers! Anyone who "thinks" they know that much about the oil they put in their car and is not a qualified Petrochemical scientist has got far too much time on their hands! Get a life FFS! ;)

As promised response from Millers:-

 

 

DATA SHEET 1104

 

CFS 10W-60

 

Product Description · Competition Full Synthetic Engine Oil· Formulated with 100% synthetic base fluids, including a synergistic blend of three esters, combined with latest additive technology for maximum performance.

 

Application Use as received for competition engines used in highly stressed conditions.

 

User Benefits Fully synthetic oils provide many outstanding performance benefits over conventional mineral oil. By utilising both polyalphaolefins (PAO) and ester synthetics specially selected to minimise the amount of polymer used, the lubricant film provided is more resistant to ‘shear’ and viscosity loss in highly stress areas.· Full synthetic oil provides:- load carrying capacity up to six times that of mineral oil- high film strength for ultimate protection- outstanding cold flow properties for reduced wear at start upexcellent thermal stability and oxidation resistance· The synergistic blend of three esters gives improved lubricity, reducing friction and enhancing the oils performance· CFS 10W-60 formulated to protect larger competition engines operating under extreme conditions e.g. long distance racing, rallying in both normally aspirated and turbocharged engines

 

Performance Profile · Suitable for all normally aspirated and turbocharged engines from 2 litres upwards.· Ideal for large capacity V8 engines in all forms of motorsport.· Suitable for operating at 125oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC· For fast road use or track days in engines where a 10w/40 is normally specified· API SJMB 229.1; MB 228.1ACEA A2-96; B3-98; E2-96

 

Typical Characteristics SAE Viscosity grade 10W-60Density @ 15oC 0.867

 

Health and Safety Health and Safety Data Sheet 1104 applies to this product. When used for the purpose recommended and with due regard to the appropriate Health and Safety Data, the product should cause no concern. If in doubt, consult with Millers Oils Technical Department.

 

1104

10.04.

PLEASE NOTE MILLERS OILS ALLWAYS RECOMENDS CFS 10W/60 FOR ALL HIGH PERFORMANCE CARS SUCH AS THE

NISSAN 300 Z AND NOT FOR EXAMPLE CFS 5W/40

 

See attachment for word doc.

 

Leigh.

LOL :D

 

You got that off the side of a 5 litre plastic bottle of Harry Halfords half price special Oil Leigh! :D

I'm gonna start using that in mine. Used that in my Saab Turbo and my Supra and never had any problems at all. Now using it in the Renault 5 Turbot and will be putting it in the MR-2 Turbot.

 

Magnatec is teh ev1l. ;)

 

Mobil 1 15W-50 and the Castrol RS 10W-60 seemed to work quite nicely in the tincan rocket btw (the Renault ;)) (Didn't help save the turbo when the actuator stopped working mind.. :rofl: At least I didn't melt any pistons mind, more than can be said for Duffers actuator action :D :nelson: )