Please can someone advise on what enfine and gearbox oil to use for my 1993 t/t. I use it for short journey to work and weekends for kicking my mates supras ass ha ha . I am bit confused as so many advices on what one to use . am i right in thinking 15-50 is right fully synthetic?? and what about gearbox and diff.

 

Also how easy it to change rear diff oil and front diff oil ( or is it part of engine??) and the gearbox oil ?? Also where can i go to get amounts to put in.

 

Help !!! :mac1:

How does it get thinner when hot, I thought oil thickens when hot and with the 50 weight it is over spec in thickness for our engines!

 

huh?? now im confused - oil does get thinner when hot?!?! :confused:

Sorry should have added in relation to other oils :confused:

Hi Simon,

 

The Millers oil I sell is all competition grade oils.

They all start CFS for Competition Fully Synthetic, and come in 10/30, 10/40, 10/60, and for Endurance racing 15/50 grades.

 

From experience and backup support the 10/60 is best for the 300ZX.

Its also the oil recommended by well known tuners for the Skyline.

 

Leigh.

 

Millers also do a 5w40 fully synth (XFS, I believe it is called). Mike Feeney sells this at around £25 for 5 litres. I used this in my ZX last service. No rattles, good pressure when hot and very little consumption.

 

Richard :smw:

10w-60 is best for the 300ZX.

Its also the oil recommended by well known tuners for the Skyline.

Leigh.

 

I'm happy to agree to disagree. I've been through all the reasons before and do not wish to state it all again. It's simply too far out of grade and I certainly do not recommend 10w-60 as a suitable grade for the 300ZX.

 

I'm not a tuner I'm a seller and expert in oils with more than 10 years of experience with many of the brands that I sell, I don't just sell one as that would totally compromise my ability to recommend a suitable oil and not give my Customers a wide enough choice.

 

The oils I sell are here and they are all reputable major brands.

 

As you are a Millers Dealer then I guess you will be able to answer a question that I cannot find the answer to. "What percentage of ester and or pao is in the CFS range of oils?"

 

I know in relation to the oils that I sell so I'm sure that they will tell you.

 

Cheers

Simon

Firstly in answer to your question Karl, only use a good quality brand name synthetic oil!

 

If you are in Dire financial straights then you can get away with a semi for a while!

 

I heard the same story about someone pouring silkolene out and it being like water when it was cold, I have heard this is a good thing though as it will reach parts of the engine on start up faster than a thick oil.

 

What's important in these top oils is the ester content as this is what matters for good lubrication.

 

Esters

 

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago.

 

Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants (esters also appear in perfumes; they are different!) work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick.

 

Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

 

Cheers

Simon

Why would you change to a thinner oil for the winter???

 

We don't live in Siberia, a 10/60 is good down to -20 degrees C. This means that it properties at startup from cold are no different down to this temperature.

This is the same for all oils starting with 10, see the attachment oil chart.

 

Now all you would be doing by changing to a thinner oil, is reduce your higher temperature protection, because the viscosity of the oil would not be as good.

 

Leigh.

 

These are merely the extremes that different viscosities can operate down to.

 

The point is that at the turn of the key, summer or winter, the thinner the oil the more quickly it will circulate around the engine preventing wear.

 

It is not a coincidence that most OEM's today specify 0w or 5w oils for all year round use.

 

Cheers

Simon

Richard,

 

The XFS is a normal road oil synthetic. CFS as previously mentioned is the Competition oil, and hence has been tested under more arduous conditions, and a higher content of ester.

 

Here is the spec from Millers:-

 

Description

* Competition Full Synthetic Engine Oil.

* Fully formulated synthetic base fluids combined with latest additive technology for maximum performance.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Application

Use as received for competition engines used in highly stressed conditions.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

User Benefits

Fully synthetic oils provide many outstanding performance benefits over conventional mineral oil. Some of these benefits include:-

* Full synthetic oil provides:

- load carrying capacity up to six times that of a 100% mineral oil

- high film strength for ultimate protection

- outstanding cold flow properties for reduced wear at start up

- excellent thermal stability and oxidation resistance.

* CFS 10W-60 formulated to protect larger competition engines operating under extreme conditions e.g. long distance racing, rallying in both normally aspirated and turbocharged engines.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Performance Profile

* Suitable for all normally aspirated and turbocharged engines from 2 litres upwards.

* Ideal for large capacity V8 engines in all forms of motorsport.

* Maximum continuous operating temperature 125oC. Intermittent running to 150oC will not cause distress.

* API SJ

ACEA A3-98; B3-98

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Viscosity / Typical Characteristics

SAE Viscosity grade 10W-60

Density @ 15oC 0.857

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Health and Safety

Health and Safety Data Sheet 1104 applies to this product. When used for the purpose recommended and with due regard to the appropriate Health and Safety Data, the product should cause no concern. If in doubt, consult with Millers Oils Technical Department.

I don't doubt that silkolene is a good oil used in the right circumstance and I don't doubt that you know your stuff oilman but having used silkolene i can only come to one conclusion and that is I would certainly not put it in my car ever again let alone any of my customers , as someone has pointed out, this oil for what ever reason is like water when going in cold even thinner when hot , I appreciate that you may gain approx 1 bhp by using a thinner oil but at what cost, I have tried many oils over the last few years including Mobile etc which again tbh I would not use, I use and recommend both Castrol and Millers for a reason they work without any problems.

 

 

Ryan

 

I'm sorry but that statement is a nonsense unless qualified with the viscosity you are referring to! So how thin is MOBIL1 0w-40? Well, much thinner when cold than anything Silkolene makes.

 

How thin is a 5w-50? Well when cold, as thin as Silkolene PRO S 5w-40.

 

You see any 5w oil will be the same thickness when cold as any other 5w oil.

 

Please state which Silkolene Oil you are referring to.

 

Cheers

Simon

How does it get thinner when hot, I thought oil thickens when hot and with the 50 weight it is over spec in thickness for our engines!

 

Spot on and an sae 60 is even further away from the spec you require which is my point here!

 

Cheers

Simon

There seems some confusion about how a multigrade works, this may help to explain, posted before on the Oil Recommendations thread.

 

What is a multigrade?

 

A good oil must be quite low in viscosity even when it's cold so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second when you turn that key!

 

On the other hand it needs to protect engine components like piston rings at very high temperatures as the engine gets hot without evaporating or carbonising and it must maintain oil pressure.

 

Unmodified thin oils simply can't perfrom this balancing act. The answer is to use a mixture of thin oil and temperature-sensitive polymer which as the oil gets thinner with increasing temperature expands and effectively "fights back", keeping the viscosity at a level to hold oil pressure and film thickness on the bearings.

 

So, these polymers are added to a thin base, 0w,5w,10w etc at cold tempertaures they are "coiled up" and allow the oil to circulate very easily but as the engine and therefore the oil warms up, they begin to "uncoil" into long chains keeping the oil more viscous.

 

It is impossible to make a good 5w-40 or 10w-40 using only mineral oil. The base oil is too thin and evaporates away at high temperatures found in powerful engines that are highly stressed, this is why synthetics are used to build up the oil to cope with the stresses of modern engines.

 

Cheers

Simon

I'll post a full lubricants report for the Nissan 300ZX in the next 24 hours and you will see the point I am making here. No disrespect to owners using 10w-60 but perhaps we should go back to basics and find a technical starting point to discuss around.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

...........Engine oil choice always causes great debate here :p .............

 

Richard :cool:

 

I said it once.......!!!!! :x: :nelson:

 

Richard :D

I want an oil thats thin at cold if poss, so 5w/50 would be thinner than 10/60.

 

Any opinions on valvoline, or should i go for castrol rs 0w/40???

Zooom.... Whoosh.... holy crap whats that?..... oh its the technical stuff going straight over my head at high speed!!! You two guys clearly know your sh1t! shame my brain hurts after reading that! :D

I want an oil thats thin at cold if poss, so 5w/50 would be thinner than 10/60.

 

Any opinions on valvoline, or should i go for castrol rs 0w/40???

 

0 is too thin IMHO Stick with RS 10/60 PROVEN in the Z32 for years with members on here.

I'm sorry but that statement is a nonsense unless qualified with the viscosity you are referring to! So how thin is MOBIL1 0w-40? Well, much thinner when cold than anything Silkolene makes.

 

How thin is a 5w-50? Well when cold, as thin as Silkolene PRO S 5w-40.

 

You see any 5w oil will be the same thickness when cold as any other 5w oil.

 

Please state which Silkolene Oil you are referring to.

 

Cheers

Simon

Simon I am refering to your pro 10/50 , I am well aware of the viscosity values of this oil , but my own personel findings are that it is too thin at cold and hot temps, this is just one of those products I am not willing to use as said before in my own or my customers cars , the oil may well be up to the job I am just not happy using it.

 

Ryan

CASTROL RS 10-60w works for me :hyper: this has been recomended to me by lots of z owners that will do me goodnight ;)

Simon,.

 

You have already proved to everyone that the Silkolene is thin from your link to the EVO owners club.

 

The car in question has tapping when hot or cold, when used with castrol RS, yet other owners of the same vehicle recommended Castrol RS.

 

This identifies a fault with this particular EVO, as the lifters where not recieveing oil. This is probably due to clogged oil galleries in the lifters. An Oil flush would have removed this, as has running the EVO on thin oil.

 

If the owner now went back to Castrol the car would probably be alright. The downside is he is now running on an oil to thin to give satisfactory protection to the Turbo, and big end bearings for the stress that the engine will be under.

 

Also if you look at the attachment on my previuos post it shows the temperature range, and a 10 grade oil is more than adequate all year round.

 

So B19KS you don't need to change to a thinner oil, unless you want to have turbo problems. The engine will still get up to the same operating temperatures as the summer, and on cold start a 10 grade oil is more than up to the job of protecting the engine, for our climate. When did it last get to -20 in the UK??? -10 maybe in the worst of our winters.

 

Leigh.

How can people on here recommend RS10-60 and semi synthetic when they are getting their engines rebuilt and their turbos are going?

 

These two things signify to me that something is wrong and that oil could be one of the factors that contributed to it?

How can people on here recommend 10-60 and semi synthetic when they are getting their engines rebuilt and their turbos are going?

 

These two things signify to me that something is wrong and that oil could be one of the factors that contributed to it?

 

Sorry mate but thats *****cks IMHO:D choice of oil did NOT crack my Piston it was down to 12 years of age and running 1bar of boost.Each to their own and we are free to use whatever oil we want and i WONT use anything else but CastrolRS 10/60.

So you are denying any possibilty that your choice of oil might have contributed to your engine problems?

So you are denying any possibilty that your choice of oil might have contributed to your engine problems?

 

Yes I am 100%!

Nice to see you have kept an open mind :D

Nice to see you have kept an open mind :D

 

Well it lasted for over 12 years mate so I dont think I chose the wrong oil,now I am no EXPERT but PeterR is and he told me it was down to age and the boost I was running;)

Only two points here, I am a magnatec fan, but each to their own.

 

And I would be surprised if the vast majority of zeds, used regularly, have got to 13 yrs without needing a rebuild. I cant understand why people get all shocked when their engine gets a bit rattly, most 13 yr old cars are well on their way out by now, but because "its only done 56k" people get surprised..

 

PS. Mac sorted his conrods out for me :bow: and I will say this, they look like new, the ones I have in my garage have a right yellow tinge where they have been sitting in gungy oil, but I wouldnt be upset if I opened a box of new conrods and they looked like the ones out of Iain's engine