Hi guys,

 

It looks like its my turn to get the curse :cry: :cry:

Over the last 24 hours the autobox started playing up. I noticed it began to rev higher than usual before changing up, and now it doesnt go any higher than 2nd. :(

Oddly enough when I select '2' it seems to give normal pulling power, but when in 'D' it revs high and doesnt give me much movement (as if the clutch was half pressed in on a manual)

I noticed the oil pressure gauge was running higher than usual when the box was running into difficulties (over 4kg when it's normally 2 or 3)

Ive searched the forum and found a couple of things to check but am not sure about how to check the autobox fluid level?

I've had an ALC2 for a couple of months but that seems to have been behaving itself.

I've not done an autobox self-check yet :slap:

Any help would be greatly appreciated :bow:

Autobox dipstick is at the back of the engine in the drivers side.

The auto d/stick has a hot and cold level mark on it,although I prefer to check it hot with engine running and in park. Can you disconect the ALC2-Just to check if this is giving probs before going any further?HTH.

Cheers.

Hi guys,

 

It looks like its my turn to get the curse :cry: :cry:

Over the last 24 hours the autobox started playing up. I noticed it began to rev higher than usual before changing up, and now it doesnt go any higher than 2nd. :(

Oddly enough when I select '2' it seems to give normal pulling power, but when in 'D' it revs high and doesnt give me much movement (as if the clutch was half pressed in on a manual)

I noticed the oil pressure gauge was running higher than usual when the box was running into difficulties (over 4kg when it's normally 2 or 3)

Ive searched the forum and found a couple of things to check but am not sure about how to check the autobox fluid level?

I've had an ALC2 for a couple of months but that seems to have been behaving itself.

I've not done an autobox self-check yet :slap:

Any help would be greatly appreciated :bow:

 

Sorry to hear your having troubles mate,i had exactly the same problem on my previous Z,it turned out to be the line solenoids,and if you keep trying to use it,ie not going into D3 it will burn out the bands,they may be on way out any way,the garage replaced bands,clean out the shite(was alot of crap about by then)replaced filters and fitted new solenoids,all in £1000,you may get wind of whats going on if you run box for a while then check the smell from oil on dip stick,slight burnin smell from it means rouble.Have you done the Auto Diagnostic Check(its in the manual and if my memories correct theres a post and link to it on forum)

 

Another thing all auto box owners should be aware of,on these cars they need to have new filters and oil every 3-4 thosand miles to keep them sweet(according to the experts)

 

Tony

Sorry TonyC but new filters and oil every 3-4k miles is rubbish. If you need a filter its because there something wrong, and the oil should be changed every year, why? Because the new oils, as in last 10 years or so are less natural and absorb more moisture. Often Z's lose 3rd because that gear is a clutch, and its too small for the job. No offence.

Sorry TonyC but new filters and oil every 3-4k miles is rubbish. If you need a filter its because there something wrong, and the oil should be changed every year, why? Because the new oils, as in last 10 years or so are less natural and absorb more moisture. Often Z's lose 3rd because that gear is a clutch, and its too small for the job. No offence.

 

 

Well true about the oil,as i should of said 3-4k miles or every year,as i was told some months back,but could not quite remember,and the filters i were told you may as well do anyway as its not costly to do at same time,like doing a cambelt on a Z and not doing water pump and thermostat ,its cost effective in long run to do them at same time.

 

Just trying to help,two heads better than one sometimes :)

 

Tony

thanks for the pointers guys. im praying that its just me not servicing it properly and a simple fluid top-up will solve all the problems (dream on dave)

i'll check the level tomorrow and try a diagnostic.

im in for a sleepless night :(

I can give you my brothers number if you want, he will give you some proper advice, Autos are his business.

I have just had valve body modified to make the changes stronger, more positive and the box a lot more responsive. And it lasts longer too. Makes a big difference to how it drives, makes the car feel a lot more modern, and by that I mean the box works WITH you a lot more.

not sure why people keep saying change the filter in the box

the pickup filter is wire mesh, so as long as it doesn't get damaged is a lifetime part,

deffo clean it when changing the fluid

just covert the damn thing to a manual and be done... and this is from someone who used to drive an auto zed. if i still had mine it would have been converted.

Auto fluid lasts a lot longer than 3-4k regardless. You should get a minimum of 30k from fluid - if not you have major problems. And yes, clean the filter with meths. There is a write up on tt.net on how to do it.

 

Interesting on the valve mod - any details on who did and what was done?

Who? My brother, his company is Automatics, in Leighton Buzzard, as for what, he is doing me a few notes so I can post them. But it involves enlarging certain holes in the seperator plate and uprating the right springs etc. He says the fluid should be changed once a year becasue it absorbs water, a bit like brake fluid I guess. As you only change a third or so you only really dilute the old with new.And autos hate water.

ATF is hygroscopic? - dont think so bud.

 

most manufacturers are now "sealed for life". used to be a 36000 mile interval change on mercs, is now no longer a service item due to improved properties of Dexron 3 :)

I am not going to argue, you may be right, however this is what he says, he should know. I will ask again to be sure.

ATF is hygroscopic? - dont think so bud.

 

most manufacturers are now "sealed for life". used to be a 36000 mile interval change on mercs, is now no longer a service item due to improved properties of Dexron 3 :)

 

Same with beemer boxes-sealed.And what PaulC said! ;)

I have not asked him yet, but I guess if they are sealed then moisture cant get in????Maybe it only applies to older non sealed boxes. ??????

Hi guys. Thanks for the posts - i just got back from a weekend in manchester.

 

Well, the fluid dipstick reads over-full when cold (almost up to the wire!), but yet it's hardly on the dip at all when the engine is running (about 10 mins drive) - it doesnt even cover the letter 'H' of hot!

 

I just noticed this evening that from cold, it almost seems to get into 3rd gear (although im driving very carefully!!!) but after a couple of mins when the engine's warmer, it's lost altogether and starts to rev high in 2nd again and loses torque.

 

Still not had time to do an auto-diagnostic yet ive been that darn busy (and working hard to save up for a probable rebuild/conversion :cry: )

Hi, with regard to the water. moisture really, in the oil. Please bear with me as I am only working form memory. Sealed boxes, yes sealed for life, but their life is over when the box dies, whenever that is, but they have to have a breather, when the oil gets hot it expands, the presure leaves thru the breather, when the box/oil cools it suck normal air back in. Including the moisture in the air.

Modern oils are designed to suspend the moisture and not let it mix, but over time too much moisture builds up in the oil. This moisture attacks the glue holding the friction materiel ie clutch and band facings and any paper gaskets in the box. Often when a filter is blocked it is these "paper" friction materiels doing the blocking. (Burnt off or soaked off). My Bro feels that it is considered OK by the manufactures to offer "sealed for life" boxes because this means cheaper servicing, in the beginning anyway, but after a few years/miles it becomes irrelevant when the box is shot.

skyline dave, give my brother, Michael, a ring, he is happy to chat, without obligation.

01525 385159

many thanks for the offer Mark. will give your bruv a buzz later hopefully.

 

just another quick question for everyone:

with my current autobox problem, is it still safe to drive in '1' and '2' as they seem to be fine (in fact they still scare the crap out of me!!!)?

Am not an expert but it sounds like the oil is warming up and has less viscocity (thinner) and therefore you have the probs, as autoboxes rely on pressure this could be it or it could be that there is a restriction somewhere due to some gunge, Auto oil does not to my knowledga absorb water (it never did when I was a mechanic) so dont see any reason why it has changed, unlike brake fluid which you should change it should be good for life.

u r better off getting an auto box expert on this I reckon.

Good luck..

Trans fluid did not absorb water years ago, it does now, but make your own minds up.

As for driving your car when only 1 and 2 are working, ask yourself what has gone wrong and will further driving do more damage, I think yes it will. It is likely that the filter is blocking hence loosing drive after a while. It is nothing to do with the oil getting thinner. Talk to someone who knows...

Trans fluid did not absorb water years ago, it does now, but make your own minds up.

As for driving your car when only 1 and 2 are working, ask yourself what has gone wrong and will further driving do more damage, I think yes it will. It is likely that the filter is blocking hence loosing drive after a while. It is nothing to do with the oil getting thinner. Talk to someone who knows...

quite right mate, as per my previous post, I know ferk all, others do....

many thanks for the offer Mark. will give your bruv a buzz later hopefully.

 

just another quick question for everyone:

with my current autobox problem, is it still safe to drive in '1' and '2' as they seem to be fine (in fact they still scare the crap out of me!!!)?

 

Should be ok,i drove 30 miles to the garage to have mine sorted,try and keep to 4500rpm,if you go higher keep an eye on your temp gauge.

 

Tony :)

When an auto has gone wrong mechanically, by that I mean its not an electrical problem, any use will cause more damage. If the friction material is no longer on the plates and band, for what ever reason, then it is floating around in the box. And/or as the clutch plates/band have no covering they are now metal to metal, result, nice tiny metal filings are being spread throughout the box. Result? valves get stuck, wrong presures, things wear faster and the filter gets blocked. It could be said the damage is allready done. It could also be said that everytime you drive it you do more damage. As for it should be OK. If driving it is your only option, fine. Otherwise dont drive it. IMHO. Also, forgot to say, these metal particles and pieces of paper will, little or much, be spread throughout the box, converter and cooler. You can have the box rebuilt/new one. And if you dont FULLY CLEAN the rest, you WILL have problems very soon. This will sound familier to people here. The other thing about driving it, damage to hard parts, ie clutch drums, gear train etc etc can be caused too. More expense, as these are charged on top of a rebuild.