Anyone know how to get em out without stripping down the entire front end.

Did a search but didnt find what I wanted. (did see one talking about 4 retaining bolts from under but cant get to the back ones)

Thanx.

Care of JeffTT

 

HTH

 

Chris

 

 

 

Headlight upgrade write up is here

 

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Hi guys write up below for headlamp upgrade

Will post pics on rides and link later (edit)

 

Jeff TT

 

Nissan 300 ZX Headlight Upgrade

 

Materials requirements.

Chrome film (Homebase cat No. 4006765780153 Metallic ) £5:99

Silicon sealant (Clear)

 

Tools

10 mm spanner (Open)

10 mm spanner (Ring)

12 mm spanners (Open)

12 mm spanners (Ring)

2 x wide blade screw drivers

1 Phillips screwdrivers

1 x Hairdryer

 

+ (Lots of patience)

 

Headlight removal

 

There are 2 x 12 mm nuts & 2 x 12 mm bolts securing each light unit into the car

 

Off side

First remove 2 x Phillips screws to side indicator (Jap spec) (dark blank on UK spec)

 

Look through opening and locate 12 mm nut and integral washer at top right and remove.

 

Turn wheel on full left lock, remove lower wheel arch protector 5x 10 mm bolts

 

Pull back protector and tuck behind wheel, locate 12 mm bolt and integral washer at top right

 

Remove panel between headlights 2 x 10 mm nuts and washers.

 

Full removal of the airbox is required unless a cone filter is already fitted.

 

Airbox is secured by 10 mm bolts, trunking and the air mass meter which needs to be removed and stored carefully, this is by far the hardest part of the job.

 

Once access to area below airbox is gained look to off side headlamp front close to panel 1 x 12 mm nut and integral washer remove.

 

Same headlight towards rear, near to front slam panel 1 x 12 mm bolt and integral washer remove. As the position is confined the process to undo is fiddly and may take some time using a combination of open and ring spanners.

 

Now ease the headlamp towards the front of the car whilst lifting up ,only gently so as soon as clear the dip and main beam cable connectors can be released.

 

The near side lamp removal is the same with the exception that access to the last bolt in the sequence is fouled by the N/S recirc. valve and it may be an advantage to remove this via 2 x 10 mm nuts and 2 x jubilee clips.

 

Headlamp Dismantling

 

Clean off the external part of the lamp

 

Remove 4 x metal side plates 8 x Phillips screws. and remove rubber surround.

 

Identify 3 beam adjusters remove 3 x grey adjuster housings 6 x Phillips screws

 

Grease cog mechanisms and replace housings.

 

Remove 5 x spring steel glass retainers by gently prising off from the plastic not glass end.

 

Now using the hairdryer warm the entire lamp unit with special attention to the seal between glass and plastic body.

 

Start at the bottom of the lamp, insert the flat blade screw driver and move along levering up and down slightly, continue to warm the seal joint with the hairdryer. It is important to not rush, make small movements slowly working along the bottom seam. Once the bottom seam seams to be moving a little do the same up both sides. No return to the bottom seam again and open up the seam a little more. No move to the top of the light and the last seam, warm for to 2 mins, with the hairdryer and use the screw drivers as before, at some point now the glass will be removable .Clean and wash this and leave to dry, do not remove or damage any of the grey coloured sealant.

 

Having cleaned you hands to ensure none of the sealant gets in to the glass area, turn the light towards you at the bottom front behind the sealant are 2 x Phillips screws, remove these and the whole plastic bezel is removable. There are 3 x Phillips screws holding the projector beam chrome ring on to the bezel, remove this.

 

The chrome film/foil is now basically cut to shape with plenty of surplus to trim as required.

I found I was able to make neat job by cutting a bottom section and two half back sections. When the pieces are cut the backing is best removed in strips so as they are laid in you don't get into to much of a mess. If you have problem start again, as there are glass covered if the film is creased it will show. Wrap the entire bezel and warm with the hairdryer on tricky bits to assist the flexing of the material. Also wrap the projector beam chrome ring and trim. I actually found the shape of the ring to awkward to cover completely and left the front face about 10 mm short and it looks fine.

 

Now is the time to change / uprate bulbs I recommend 100 watt for both dip and main. If you have Jap spec zed you will need to solder an extra earth wire ( approx. 1 foot long) to the base of the bulbs and wire in the separate earth as described later when refitting the headlight units.

 

Having refitted the bezel to the lamp unit, ensure that the glass is clean, warm the old grey sealant on the head light and the glass with the hairdryer, now run a bead of silicon in the groove around the light unit and push the glass into place. Clip the metal glass retainers back on and fit the rubber surround. Refit the four trim plates holding the rubber seal squarely.

 

 

Once the unit is back together allow 1 hour for the sealant to go off , meanwhile grease / oil the nut and bolt threads to the light to aid refitting.

 

As they say in all the good books refit is a reverse job, however remember to reconnect lights and if a Jap spec car pull that extra earth cable through in to the engine bay and secure to a good earth (Rad holding bolts) My advise here is to switch the lights on and test them, its easier to sort out before securing them.

 

Refit all the nuts and bolts ensure the car is on level ground about 4 foot from a wall or garage doors and put dip beam on. Look for the left dip cut off and adjust left and right to get best spread. The height adjust must not go above the height of the cars headlights if a line was set from the top glass to the wall.

 

The time allowed will vary, based on your own skill level or and problems you may encounter but 3 to 4 hours per light isn't bad but you do need to be organised before you start.

 

(Jap spec only)

The spotlights to a degree can be improved, removal of these is via the side indicators 2x Phillips screws. then 3 x 10 mm nuts, push lamp forward from behind and release cable connector. The complete light can be dismantled cleaned and 55 watt bulbs fitted (Jap spec is 35 watt) I do not recommend fitting higher than 55 watt as experience has shown me bulb life becomes very low (3 or 4 weeks in winter!!) due to high temp of bulbs and non vented lamp design. The two plastic (look like glass) ends are removable (clipped in) and chrome film cut and fitted in here. Remove the main reflector 2 x Phillips screws and adjuster clean and fit film in housing where angle of reflector does not cover. Reassemble and refit to car.

 

The spotlamps are really able to be done in a couple of hours (both units)

Hope this helps any one considering the mod and save you some time, The light out put of the dip beam is quite honestly transformed 150% better, and the visual look in the day is striking.

 

 

Good luck Jeff TT

.....(did see one talking about 4 retaining bolts from under but cant get to the back ones)

Thanx.

 

Thats how to do it, you need to remove these nuts, and those two inner rear ones are a right pain in the arse!!! Small spanner, and hundreds of little movements is the way to go. When i put mine back in, I left these two out. The rest can be got at from underneath, with minimal removal of bits, some say to loosen the front bumper, some dont, I removed it completeley, but then I also checked everything out at the same time.

 

HTH

OK, ignor my post, as Chris was posting that, as I was writing mine, his is better :D

I did this the other day. 3 of the bolts are easy, but the 4th is a pain.

 

I did it this way -

 

turn the wheels all the way to one side

remove the headlight panel

remove the air filter, AFM and rubber t-piece

 

undo the front inner nuts from underneath

remove the indicators and you should be able to get to another of the nuts through the hole.

 

remove the 5 (or possibly 6) screws which hold the lower wheel arch liner on and pull the liner back. You should be able to see the bolt now.

 

Finally, undo the 2 screws holding the top of the fan and pull it up and then forwards out of the way.

With the fan out of the way you should be able to get to the final bolt. You can't get much range of motion, so a ratchet socket, or a ratchet spanner would be best. A standard spanner will work, but it'll take ages!

 

 

B*llocks! :x: Much too slow, but I'll post it anyway! :)

Thanks everybody..

 

Looks like I am gonna be busy this weekend!

Thanks everybody..

 

Looks like I am gonna be busy this weekend!

 

I got the fourth one using a stubby ratchet spanner from Harry's - not as bad as you think.

 

Rich

I forgot to say that I was talking to Luke (Z Centre) the other day. He said he had a new bracket (or something like that) that would allow you to put the lights back in in such a way that it's much easier to get them out next time. I think he said that it changes things so that the bolt heads are on top rather than underneath.

 

It may be worth considering.

Well, have a bit of time off work this week so I did my first headlight upgrade today, even with standard bulbs...WHAT A DIFFERENCE (going to do the other one tomorrow as it looks cr@p), Have pics of the finished item if anyone is thinking of doing it in the future (I know there are others out there, Followed JeffTT's instructions which are excellent, not as hard as you would think (worst part is getting the bast@rd thing out!) but you can do it by removing the lower inner wing liner only (3 bolts to bumper, bend it, see the bolt, although I did take the entire liner out, good chance to clear some mud out!!

Thanks again everyone!!