As some of you know one of my turbo's ceased on the way to Billing last weekend.

It's been on the cards for some time now as they are stock turbo's which have been on the car from new (i.e. 15 years and 80k miles).

 

I'm hoping that only the turbo's need changing and no other damage has been done. There are no metal filings in the boost hoses and the car still idles fine (although a little smokey from the passenger side).

The car is currently sitting on my parents drive in Maldon (Essex) which is 5 mins from SE (hopefully I won't need to go there after I finish :rofl: ).

 

I'm going to be doing the work myself.

 

I'm looking at fitting the following:

JWT 530bb's

Weisco forged pistons

Greg Dupee Split downpipes

Nismo 555 injectors

Doolz Twin pop

555 chip for Doolz

 

I'm looking at doing the following:

Removing the EGR system

Under plenum water hoses bypass

Removing the excess flashing from the internal rear water pipes

 

I'm also considering:

Removing the hicas

Fitting an NA rear Diff

Apexi Fuel controller to map Doolz with dual MAF

 

Quite a few of you have said you will help which is great :bow: as I find you always have more confidence working with someone.

 

I currently have 360ish RWHP and 390ish RW Torque (Thor Dyno)

What sort of figure do you think I will be looking at once this lot is in and mapped up.

 

Also anyone have any comments about the above set up ?. Any know problems with any of the parts ?. Any reason they won't work together ?

Time of the month darling? LMAO

 

I'm saying nothing :p

Sorry I should have given you guys my current spec list.

 

Howe Rad,

Greddy SMIC's

Uprated Oil Coller

HKS SQL bovs

Viscous replaced with Electric.

SBC-iD & Power-ID

Uprated Organic clutch

Decat and 2 3/4" pipe from manifolds back.

 

Going on your comments so far, and the little bit of research I have done myself.

 

I'm not looking to go crazy with my engine mods, I'm not after huge power and I wasn't considering manifolds, just downpipes.

I definitely want the JWT 530BB turbos (sorry duffer, minds made up). I may as well do pistons while I have the engine out and get rid of the cursed 51x piston in number 4.

 

I think there are 4 bolt and 5 bolt designs with the GD downpipes. I guess I'll know which ones I need when I get the engine out :rofl:.

 

I may leave the rear diff for now as it doesn't seem like such a good idea from what I heave read. Apparently as mark says there is a lot of pressure put on them with 500rwhp, not sure I'll get that much but it would be nice :D. You can but only try :dance:

 

I'll be there pretty much every weekend now sorting bits and pieces out so if you want to lend a hand or simply just pop your head in to see how it's going. Give me a buzz and I'll direct you in.

 

Thanks for all the input you guys have given me so far, now this is IMHO the highlight of this forum. :bow:

??????? Go on then why? :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

Because the TT diff fits the NA subframe and The NA looks like it would go into the TT Subframe infact the look the same castings. The props are different and may be the Drive shafts but ??? Please I 'm interested because I just used a TT in a NA subframe.

 

Mark you will have been the first person in the world to do this , the NA diff is completelly different from the TT one which is why you need to use the subfame aswell the props are also different NA uses a four bolt design to bolt on the diff and the TT diff uses a 6 bolt design.

 

I did a massive amount of research in to this when i opted for this option and seeing as the guys in the US have had a lot of experience in doing this the answers i got from them and Z1 was that it was not possible to interchange the two within the existing subframes

 

Ryan

You need 5 bolt for JWT530's. The flange pattern that changes is the turbine outlet, not the DP / Front pipe one.

Should be excellent when it's done.

Also, speak to Ginn about 550bb turbos, 530's without paying for the JWT name by all accounts.

John is there any info on these?

 

Contact Chip direct, he's always helpful and has most likely got dyno charts and compressor maps he can mail you.

I've still got that offer of 530's for £800 but still after the exact spec to make sure they're a match.

Contact Chip direct, he's always helpful and has most likely got dyno charts and compressor maps he can mail you.

I've still got that offer of 530's for £800 but still after the exact spec to make sure they're a match.

 

rubs hands together , let me know when a little more info is available on these John ;)

I did a massive amount of research in to this when i opted for this option and seeing as the guys in the US have had a lot of experience in doing this the answers i got from them and Z1 was that it was not possible to interchange the two within the existing subframes

 

Did you actually fit it in the end ?

Or is still still to go on/changed your mind about it ?

Did you actually fit it in the end ?

Or is still still to go on/changed your mind about it ?

 

Just sat in the garden Stu was going to wait until the car is run in but tbh may well be selling or breaking the old girl for a BIG ROY special :hyper:

:eek: :D:D

 

:p

:eek: :D:D

 

:p

LMFAO you will not find many Pete :rofl:

The Escorts are generally regarded as the best there is and have been proven to outflow the pentroofs etc. But they're $2210 :eek: Just beat me to it Jaffa!

GMS550BB's some in at $2300 vs $3200 for JWT530's.

All these prices are just straight off AMZ website, so you can probably pick it all up cheaper.

 

Well if u want the best JUN custom made more than 4k!

I want to do this cheaply, hense doing it myself, but at the same time I want to do it right.

 

By this I mean I don't want to buy what I don't really need. I think new stock pistons will take the power, but mine are 15 years old so may as well change them, and if I'm going to change them then I may as well upgrade them.

 

It seems that nismo 740's are cheaper than 555's. Any reason I shouldn't go for these ?. Do you need to machine the plenum in order for these to fit or get a +95 fuel rail or something ?.

 

Once I know exactly what I want (almost there), I'll start looking for the best prices.

You can only fit the Nismo 740s on post '94 cars :( TBH if you're not going for more than ~500rwhp then 555s will be more than up to the job :)

as andy says the 555's are more than enough. the 740's will fit, but as you say the lower plenum has to be machined for them to fit on early cars. this can prove expensive & is why the aftermarket 850's like le big mac has is popular, cos the fit straight on :)

 

no point in going larger than required anyway tho :)

ok 555's it is then.

 

Right so I'm sure about the following so far then.

 

Nismo 555 Injectors.

JWT 530BB's

WEISCO pistons (staying with 8.5:1 compression)

 

Did someon mention they heard bad things about the Gregg Dupee downpipes ?

id check, but i think the early ones were machined incorrectly, im sure i read that with the new ones this has been resolved.

 

i believe the outlet for the wastegate was incorrectly positioned

GMS550BB's some in at $2300 vs $3200 for JWT530's.

All these prices are just straight off AMZ website, so you can probably pick it all up cheaper.

 

however, the JWT's do come with $500 downpipes narrowing that price gap.

ok 555's it is then.

 

Did someon mention they heard bad things about the Gregg Dupee downpipes ?

 

Nah mate as paulc says that was quite some time ago and was simply incorrect positioned outlet,Only little niggly problem is the fact they are longer pipes that series 1 cars and yer existing down pipe needs shortening, really simple to do though, SpeedyS has the GD ones. Iam trying out another set at the mo myself, well i say trying, i will be once my cars up and running which duffers says is Aug 15th, can send you a pic if you like.

smithy

yeah pics would be great thanks smithy. The engine will be coming out in 3 weekends time (thanks in advance to the forums chief engine lifter MTL :bow: ).

Mark you will have been the first person in the world to do this , the NA diff is completelly different from the TT one which is why you need to use the subfame aswell the props are also different NA uses a four bolt design to bolt on the diff and the TT diff uses a 6 bolt design.

 

I did a massive amount of research in to this when i opted for this option and seeing as the guys in the US have had a lot of experience in doing this the answers i got from them and Z1 was that it was not possible to interchange the two within the existing subframes

 

Ryan

 

Obviously the prop shafts are 4 bolt instead of 6 on the NA, but the shaft is of a lighter construction as well. The diff Gearing is lower and I'm not sure about the Drive shafts though I'll give them the once over. However the NA & TT diff apear fit into the subframe in exactly the same way. + I too spoke to quite a few people on the US sights and was told what i'm telling you, + that it is not only possible, but has been done.

 

As I've never done this personnally before, nor do I personnally know of anyone who has done it. I'm following my own judgement and a little leap of faith. If I'm wrong and its not a straight fit I'll keep you posted. However I'm hoping your wrong, but if its me then HICAS eliminator bar here I come.

 

It will have cost me the price of having all the bushes pressed out of the NA frame as well, but its got to be worth a go. So I'll know by this afternoon.

Obviously the prop shafts are 4 bolt instead of 6 on the NA, but the shaft is of a lighter construction as well. The diff Gearing is lower and I'm not sure about the Drive shafts though I'll give them the once over. However the NA & TT diff apear fit into the subframe in exactly the same way. + I too spoke to quite a few people on the US sights and was told what i'm telling you, + that it is not only possible, but has been done.

 

As I've never done this personnally before, nor do I personnally know of anyone who has done it. I'm following my own judgement and a little leap of faith. If I'm wrong and its not a straight fit I'll keep you posted. However I'm hoping your wrong, but if its me then HICAS eliminator bar here I come.

 

It will have cost me the price of having all the bushes pressed out of the NA frame as well, but its got to be worth a go. So I'll know by this afternoon.

 

 

Mark as you say the prob is that no one has done it in the UK and the info in the US is very sketchy ,please let me know how you get on , I hope that it works for you

 

Ryan

Mark as you say the prob is that no one has done it in the UK and the info in the US is very sketchy ,please let me know how you get on , I hope that it works for you

 

Ryan

 

Mot as much as me :shock:

It has been done in the US, quite a few people have done it and I have an NA diff, although mine was already on the car :)

Hay Baggins!!

 

Gess what?

 

You were right mate the centres of the mounting bushes are 12mm wider on the TT :mac1: + they have already installed my bush kit into the NA subframe. So today i'm mostly having a NA subframe insalation. OOOPPS

 

I'll get the TT subframe sorted and have it all ready with new bushes for when the NA goes pop.

 

Mechanically I've got the same set up as Chris C so I'll proberbly have too much power for the NA diff. I'm sure it'll be good fun until it goes pop.

 

So we now know for sure.

Hay Baggins!!

 

Gess what?

 

You were right mate the centres of the mounting bushes are 12mm wider on the TT :mac1: + they have already installed my bush kit into the NA subframe. So today i'm mostly having a NA subframe insalation. OOOPPS

 

I'll get the TT subframe sorted and have it all ready with new bushes for when the NA goes pop.

 

Mechanically I've got the same set up as Chris C so I'll proberbly have too much power for the NA diff. I'm sure it'll be good fun until it goes pop.

 

So we now know for sure.

 

Mark :(

 

do you need a TT subframe and Diff ???

 

my NA set up will be going on soon and you are more than welcome to the TT set up if you need them

 

Ryan