Hi all,

 

Got a bit of a problem with the revs dropping below idle speed when slowing down - especially from 50mph+ speeds. It sometimes picks up again but often stalls (most embarrassing!). I can often avoid the problem by changing down through the box as I'm slowing down.

 

This problem is definately worse since fitting Blitz BOVs on hardpipes. I'm pretty sure I've ruled ouut any chance of a leak. I've capped the points on the intake where the original recircs connected, capped the outlets from the recircs and connected my vacuum lines to the recirc vac lines. I've left the recirc vacuum connectors open - do these also need capping?? The BOVs seem to work ok but I'm not sure if they need adjusting (they're not hissing at idle) - second hand units so who knows what pressure they're set to!?!

 

I've used the shortest lengths of vacuum hose I could get away with without any kinks but I'm wondering if the additional hosing is a bit excessive along with a good couple of yards for the boost controller as well. Must be something vacuum related as use of brakes and clutch seems to make it worse/more likely to stall.

 

Car idles perfectly when stationary

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Best regards,

 

RobH

Have you cleaned your TBs?

Hi Cos, cleaned them about 6 months ago, would assume they're still sparkling.

hhmmm - worth a go though!

If you suss this out mate let me know , im trying to solve the same problem.

It has been posted before, but through lots of advice no resolution was posted. :( . Im replacing the 4 rubber pipes with hardpipe kit soon as I have some splits in the hoses. Im also pretty sure I have no vacuum leaks. although my auto box is playing up.

It almost seems like an intermittent electrical fault, like power is being lost for a short while, when cold hard braking , engine stalls, sometimes when just at operating temp. I cleaned out the air bypass valve that seemed to help when warm. Ill keep in touch if I get to the bottom of it first. :confused:

If your's is a Jap spec, have you tried using a grounding kit?

Ooer! Mine is a Jap but I'm sick of throwing money at it. Do you really think a grounding kit would help??

 

I'm convinced it's something vacuum related, too much of a coincidence afetr fitting the BOVs. There must be a nominal limit to the amount of exrta vacuum tubing you can successfully run off the intake circuit...

 

I haven't tried an ecu reset yet, don't imagine it will help but at least it'll raise the idle revs for a few hundred miles ;-)

 

Cheers!

have you hooked it up to a conzult yet to ensure as much as possible is ok? Might also be worth using a vacuum tester!

Hi Rob,

 

I've got a similar problem with my car at the moment. It stalls quite easily when stopping but only when the engine is cold. Once it reaches operating temp it won't stall (although it used to under hard braking - sorted that prob by replacing the PVC valves and associated hoses). I know that I've got two pretty hefty vacume leaks but they also remain when at operating temp so I've ruled that out. I know that my base idle is set too low and I'll change that when I get a chance to hook up my ConZult. Basically, when braking to a stand still I can see the idle settle too low and the ECU then kicks in and raises the revs artificially. Most of the time this works when slowing down gently. If I need to brake hard the ECU won't kick in in time and the car stalls ... I'm hopeful that resetting the base idle will correct this embarassing problem. Another (possibly associated) problem is that the car idles really rough when cold. This has been narrowed down to a sticky lifter/valve on the number 2 cylinder which loosens up when warm thereby irradicating the problem. Once warm the car idles smoothly (although the revs are kept artificially high by the ECU) and (coincidentally) won't stall when slowing down. I really need to sit down and sort this one out but just haven't got the time. If/when I do sort it I'll let you know.

 

Cheers mate!

 

Danny

Check whether it stalls when the a/c is on. If it doesn't then you need to check out the electrical connection and function of the AAC valve. The value of this is displayed on a Techtom/ConZult as a %age open, but I think it defaults to 85% if the electrical connection is poor. Typically, it should be something like 15-20% on tickover IIRC.

 

Have a shufti here :- http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html

Sounds like the TPS.

 

Clean it and set it back to its required setting

Check whether it stalls when the a/c is on. If it doesn't then you need to check out the electrical connection and function of the IAA valve. The value of this is displayed on a Techtom/ConZult as a %age open, but I think it defaults to 85% if the electrical connection is poor. Typically, it should be something like 15-20% on tickover IRC.

 

Have a shufti here :- http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html

 

Sounds like the TPS.

 

Both sound advice and worth checking out. Unfortunately, in my case, the TPS is new and set correctly and IAA valve is operating correctly. A/C on or off doesn't make a difference to the stalling problem when cold.

 

Cheers!

 

Danny

My TPS was new approx 1 year ago and is set correctly. Cleaned the idle unit connectors at around the same time as I was having problems with erratic tickover.

 

My Aircon is b*ggered so I'm not sure if that test will work - it still comes on and raises the revs but I had to cut the drive belt off as the pump was making an horrendous noise.

 

Should mention I replaced the PCV's and hoses approx 6 months ago, very little use since.

 

No access to a ConZult unfortunately - lol, I should have bought one when you were doing the GB eh Danny??

 

Cheers!

 

RobH

Ihad exactly same problem - eliminate your BOVs by reconnecting your recircs again.

 

Pain in the arse I know - but one of my BOV springs was weak and it was this causing the stalling problem for me. Ive switched back to recircs and cleared up prob straight away!!!!

Hello mate,

 

I have the same problem too, when I brake hard the car ends up stalling when coming to a stop. I make sure that I can brake hard, have time to release for 2 secs to allow the revs to rise and then brake again.

 

When it first happened to me, I ovetook a row of ten cars, went down a really steep hill and then broke hard. Stalled in the middle of the roundabout, paniced and forgot to put it back into 'P' so it wouldnt start, allten cars then drove by me, how embarassing!!!!!

 

Now I give it plenty of room to brake.

 

Be nice to know the reason why though?!?

Weak PCV springs can cause this. So can incorrect throttle initial position or clogged TB's. Or just a small air leak.

PCV = ? P? Circulating Valves?

TB = Throttle Bodies??

PCV - Positive Crankshaft Ventilation

Should also be 'startable' in N so you don't have to come to a complete stop before restarting.

I shifted into nuetral when the car started to stall, revs picked up immediatly, so it only seems to happen under load. still runs lumpy when cold though. So now when I come to a queue or a set of lights when the car is cold I shift to neutral before I get there , no problem even when braking hard.

Well it's all been said above, but my money is on the weak springs in the dumps values for you personally.

For anyone who doesn't have dump valves then I would say it's an air leak somewhere.

 

I doubt this would be a vaccum leak as any leak in the vaccum pipes would actually raise the rpm at idle.

What air filters are you guys running? ;)

I'm using a Blitz SUS wire jobbie.

 

Think it's possible to get replacement springs for the the blitz BOV's can anyone confirm this please? So what's the theory? That the BOV isn't closing allowing unmetered air into the system?

 

FWIW, I've shortened some of my additional vacuum pipes as much as possible and the problem seems slightly improved.

 

Cheers!

This is usually caused by turbulence (or lack of it) in the MAS with certain air filters. Another cause is base idle being set too low. With the Blitz you can wind the adjusters right in to stop any chance of leaking ;)

 

Oh, did I mention I have a conZult now? :D

aha! Mr D!! Hope things are good with you!?

 

I'm just a bit worried about winding the adjusters in and the b*ggers not opening - is this a possibility or do they still open on max adjustment?

 

Will no doubt be in touch soon for a check up! Got a new baby to play with now though - Honda CR500 to put on the road ;-) so car is currently second inline for cash injection.

 

Cheers

 

RobH

Things are erm...... yeah we'll just leave it there eh lol

 

They'll still open, just needs a bit more boost than normal - I ran mine fully wound in for a long time because the buggers wouldn't stop leaking lol When they do blow off they give a better whoosh anyway when the springs are tensioned more ;)