Hi, you'll probably be hearing a bit from me in the coming months but I thought it would be of interest to post this item.

 

 

A word of caution – You get what you pay for!

 

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

 

Quote:

 

Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions. We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

 

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”? Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”. Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

 

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

 

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil, such as PRO S or PRO R. This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

 

UNQUOTE:

 

This article is something that all car owners should read and understand before buying oil and I’ve posted this with Johns permission.

 

Cheers,

Simon Barnard.

OPIE OILS

Topless,

 

I would still go with Silkolene's tech dept's advice, use PRO S 10w-50.

 

For the diff oil, look about 4 posts up from here, I was told for twin turbo's use 75w-90 fully syn.

 

Can highly recommend Silkolene Syn 5, Ester fully synthetic.

 

Cheers

Simon

I occasionally speak to John Rowland (from Silkolene) at work. He seems to know more about oil than anyone I've ever spoken to.

 

But I guess he would favour Silkolene but that's fair enough I guess.

To some extent you are right but John is an R & D Chemist and an expert in his field, he doesn't sell oils, he merely analyses and formulates good ones!

 

He's forgotten more than I know.

 

Cheers

Simon

Castrol RS 10W-60

 

117k miles, Twin Turbo,

 

I chose this because of the high milage of the heads, the short engine and turbos have only done 55k however since rebuilt.

Always used to use valvoline Syn power 5W-50 until I couldn't get hold of it, how does that rate?

TBH, I'll put your recommendations in next time. Group buy anyone?!

Mobil 1 motorport 15W-50 for the past nearly 3 years(since I have had the car - over 30k on it).

Simon,

 

Just to confirm the diff oil is 80-90!

 

BTW what oil do you recommend for running an engine in, I notice that millers make an oil specifically for this?

Mike,

 

I'll open up the 10w-60 Castrol debate once I have the chemical alaysis against the PRO S 10w-50 Silkolene, see earlier in this thread.

 

Cos,

 

Mobil 1 15w-50 Motorsport is a good oil (I sell it) and I would endorse the use of a 50 rather than a 60 but would question the 15w which will not give as good circulation when cold as a 10w or 5w.

 

Topless

 

Thanks for that, you don't need a specialist oil a mineral 20w-50, 10w-40 0r 15w-50 will do the job.

 

Cheers

Simon

Hello Simon...Very interesting reading!

My twin turbo z is currently running Magnatec oil, it's due an oil change

very soon (every 5k km's). The car has 55k miles, running 12.5 psi, ECU chip/jets, pipe

and filter. It's mainly used as a weekend car. It idles for at least 10mins

before i drive it from cold (I never liked the neighbours anyway!), and

is never booted until properly warmed up. I've heard pro's & cons regarding

Magnatec, having read your comments on it, i'm considering another oil

next time! Silkolene seems to come highly recommended, however, i've

never seen it in the shops?

I've had 1st hand experience of silkolene, while racing motocross (pro comp),

it's excellent stuff, always burned really clean, no sticky rings etc (ooh err!).

Where can i get silkolene from, any mail order suppliers? (Group buy?).

 

Cheerz..............Simon. :)

Silkolene seems to come highly recommended, however, i've

never seen it in the shops?

I've had 1st hand experience of silkolene, while racing motocross (pro comp),

it's excellent stuff, always burned really clean, no sticky rings etc (ooh err!).

Where can i get silkolene from, any mail order suppliers? (Group buy?).

 

You won't anymore other than the motorcyle stuff! Silkolene now use Authorised Distributors like myself to sell their oils as they refuse to be screwed down on the price and compromise on quality.

 

You can get it from me, that's why I'm here, mail order to your door!

 

Just email me for a price list:

 

sales@opieoils.co.uk

 

Cheers

Simon

Simon,

 

I would like to see your opinion on this guys thread?

 

http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=93665

Just read the thread.

 

Stay clear of additives, you're wasting your money and besides a good oil has all the additives you need in it. It's so finely balanced that you could at worse upset the Oils additive pack.

 

Cheers

Simon

we never use additives on Mercs - Merc say if customers want to waste their money then put it in if they want!!