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When I brake the car shake's like anything :( , is this to do with my tracking? As my car pulls to the left alot, OR could it be warped discs.

 

If it's warped disc's how can I tell which one's are warped?

 

cheers, Alastair.

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When I brake the car shake's like anything :( , is this to do with my tracking? As my car pulls to the left alot, OR could it be warped discs.

 

If it's warped disc's how can I tell which one's are warped?

 

cheers, Alastair.

hi mate thats your discs mine were the same mine were that bad it was hurting my wrists no joke standard z brakes are naff !get a upgrade its probably both and your going to have to get 2 discs anyway,tracking can be done in a tyre centre for about £5 heres a website for a brake upgrage at a reasonable cost http://www.3gbrakes.co.uk pakages start from about £200 for grooved discs and pads :)

Sounds like warped disks to me mate, the shaking anyway, the pulling to one side could that be air in one of the lines to one of the front callipers? just a guess, could be uneven pressure and going harder on one side? don't know if thats feasable just a guess.

 

Of course one of your wheels could be loose :O but then that would mean it pulling to one side all the time!!

 

Steve

How can I tell which ones are warped? (e.g. Back or front or just one)?

Correct me if im wrong, but the shaking on the steering if its bad is always front as its directly connected to your steering rack, if it were the back ones then i guess the steering would remain pretty straight and the back end would just wobble, you wouldnt feel vibrating through the wheel.

 

I've never, ever, seen anyone with warped or buckled back disks, stands to reason really as nearly all of the weight distributes to the front when you brake anyway, the back ones do very little, whilst the front ones roast under serious braking, if one front side is warped, chances are the other has under the same pressure (unless some one was braking heavy into corners on a track day or something in it lol)

 

Get a new set of front disks mate, and my bets are it will be fine.

 

Get it all balanced to be sure too, but if it was a balance / tracking prob it would pull to one side all the time (although more under braking), so not to sure on the pulling thing.

Ahh another thing, when was the last time you had your callipers off? maybe one of the pistons is seized a bit unbalancing the breaking? hence it pulling more on one side? There again I could be talking shit lol

Ahh another thing, when was the last time you had your callipers off? maybe one of the pistons is seized a bit unbalancing the breaking? hence it pulling more on one side? There again I could be talking shit lol

 

 

It sounds like excellent advice :bow:

 

Thanks for all the info guys :bow:

Pistons on rhs caliper - one or more seized. That disc will also prolly be most warped. If pistons on one side of the disc work then that side gets all the heat and uneven heating - one side hot and the other cool leads to warping.

You are prolly facing 2 new discs and rebuilding the calipers with new seals and checking for rusted pistons. Saw exactly this on my UK a few years back. Tried the tension rod bushes etc first but it was the discs and calipers. New Nissan discs were destroyed with warp within 5000miles because the calipers werent done at the same time. More new 3G grooved discs and seal kit and no more problem and good brakes.

could also be the tension rod bushes.

 

Vijay

 

Could well be,but for me it was the big one,lower ball joint nearside,can not just replace ball joint on them,had to change complete arm too,Mr F (MJP)sorted me new one,but its very exspensive,but what a difference,no more violent shaking :cool:

 

Tony

 

ps you should be able to tell if its a warped disc,you can feel it through the pedal, pulsating kind of feel.

Ordered some nice new drilled and grooved discs for the front. :dance:

 

Had a quick look under the car, could the 'bush' in the picture have anything do with the car shaking? What does the metal rod thing do (sorry not very good with tech terms)

 

Alastair.

that's the tension rod bush and yes it could cause the shaking :)

 

Vijay

You can see the tension rod bush is damp - that is the silicone goo leaking out of it. So it would be soft and squidgy. This might make it fail an MOT as well depending on the tester. Think you need to invest in new rods as well either from Nissan - expensive or go for superflex poly ones from Chris Witor at about £50 the pair just for the bushes. I've had those on 3 years now with no probs.

You can see the tension rod bush is damp - that is the silicone goo leaking out of it. So it would be soft and squidgy. This might make it fail an MOT as well depending on the tester. Think you need to invest in new rods as well either from Nissan - expensive or go for superflex poly ones from Chris Witor at about £50 the pair just for the bushes. I've had those on 3 years now with no probs.

 

How hard is it to take the bushes out of the old rods?

Can I knock them out, and put in the new one?

I found it easy to get them out by using a drill to waste the rubber part then a cold chisel to lift the steel sleeve part away from the edges of the rod holder end then it knocks out easy. Getting the poly one in needs a big vice and you need to be aware that it will really get out of shape before it pops in!

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