After most of the pipes have been replaced and the engine has stood empty for months there's going to be LOTS of air in these systems.

How do I go about refilling things?

 

Are the turbos and heads going to get oil/water quickly enough?

How does the HICAS/power steering refill after a complete strip down?

 

How good are the oil/water pumps at getting air out of the system?

The water shouldn't be an issue - just make sure there's no air locks. Raising the front of the car a tad will help out lots here.

 

Oil will take a moment to pull up the feed tube - so make sure you remove the spark plugs and fuel relay until you see oil pressure. Better still remove the drain pipes on both turbos, and keep cranking until fresh oil drains from both. THEN, and only then, fire the ol girl up for real.

 

Power steering fluid is absolutely no problem, just top up, turn the wheels from full-lock to full-lock, and check your fluid level again, topping up if required.

 

For what its worth, I've followed the above and never had a problem with any engine on any car I've owned.

 

Keep us posted with your progress, and get ready for the lovely smell of 'new' engine when your engine gets up to temperature for the first time - sounds weird, but is quite nice really!

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon.

That sounds like a good trick for the turbo's.

Checking the oil pressure can't be stressed enough! I've had 2 cases where its been almost impossible to get any oil pumping. Only solution in the end was to raise the rear of the car and leave it over night, next morning the oil had slowly filled the pump and oil pressure was seen immediately :)

this should let you know what you wand to bleed air out of the HICAS system

 

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=49&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=98

Cheers.

What kind of oil pressure will show when it's just cranking over?

Is it worth putting a bit of oil in the cylinders first?

 

I must have missed the HICAS bleeding procedure in the manual...

Oil in the cylinders will simply turn your car into a very expensive smoke machine :D

 

You will see the OP guage move up - it doesn't matter how much OP you get, just that there is some :) Best and easiest way to see is to just remove the OP sender while you're doing it - as soon as oil flows, its primed and ready to go :)

 

Make sure that the fuel pump is disabled too or you risk filling the sump with a nice petrol/oil mix ;)

I knew I had to dissable the fuel pump but have no idea how to... LOL

 

Can I just leave the injector connectors off until it's "oiled up" :eek:

Hmmmm hows about disconnecting it? :D There's several ways tbh, easiest I found is to go in the boot, remove the square cover plate under the spare wheel (4 philips screws), and diconnect the fuel pump connector (its the only one there).

Oil in the cylinders is noy a brilliant idea and when you re assembled you should (or may have) used 'molyslip' (thin oil) to coat all moving parts such as the cylinders.

All is not lost though as you can add some and let it 'run in'. as I believe is available in a spray can...like WD40.

Dont use a lot and whatever you do, dont use normal engine oil as it will smoke like f**k and coat your cylinders/intakes (if it misfires) with a load o sh*te which will defeat the object.

Used to be in the trade years ago when mechanics were mechanics and not just fitters of replacement parts (Having said that I did work on Austin/Leyland so what do I know!! :x:

The engine hasn't had any internal work done but has been stood for about 6 months with no oil.

 

Fuel pump sounds easy enough to dissable.

I remember after my rebuild the oil pump did not want to prime. Was a complete @rse in fact.

 

Solution i found was jack rear up 20 ft (lol), fill sump with 10L of oil....... (yeah i know what your saying, too much oil in sump, it will blow seals. well as 1 piston goes down, 1 is going up?? sump volume stays the same......) Different story with engine fired up tho, crank well immersed in oil is not good.

 

And crank over on starter. Make sure plugs are out, this is so important so as not to pick up your nice new big ends.

 

As soon as needle rises/oil shoots out guage hole, I drained out the extra oil.

 

Job done.

 

EDIT.... Fill new (dry) oil filter before fitting too. This will take a surprising amount of oil.....

To stop the fuel going to the engine, why not just disconnect the relevant relay in the engine bay? err...'Enj Inj' From what I remember it stops the injectors from opening. This is the method I've used in the past, is this not a good idea? Andy?

 

:bow:

That would be just the same as not putting the injector connectors on... :D