Hi guys,

 

noticed that after driving my car for 20 mins its seems to loose power when i try to boot it. If i boot it a further 4 times it gains a bit more power each time. If i switch of the car and restart straigt away its fine again. I do have a prblem with the positive terminal on my battery working itself loose all the time which i will be replacing. Would this cause said power loss. watching the stock turbo guage its normally just over the last but one line. then it only goes as far as the 3/4 mark line then it goes back up but only to just before the last but one line. Am going to order a proper boost guage to be more accurate. The engine does not sound any different to me but then im no expert and i seem just to hear the exhaust when i listen for noises. The idle is roughish sometimes and a little vibration from car when sat at lights, but i put that down to the mongoose exhausts resonating

Hi guys,

 

noticed that after driving my car for 20 mins its seems to loose power when i try to boot it. If i boot it a further 4 times it gains a bit more power each time. If i switch of the car and restart straigt away its fine again. I do have a prblem with the positive terminal on my battery working itself loose all the time which i will be replacing. Would this cause said power loss. watching the stock turbo guage its normally just over the last but one line. then it only goes as far as the 3/4 mark line then it goes back up but only to just before the last but one line. Am going to order a proper boost guage to be more accurate. The engine does not sound any different to me but then im no expert and i seem just to hear the exhaust when i listen for noises. The idle is roughish sometimes and a little vibration from car when sat at lights, but i put that down to the mongoose exhausts resonating

 

Forgot to say my car is a 1990 TT Auto Jap with decat and Mongoose Exhaust

sounds like safetyboost.

 

Did you check for errorcodes ?...I bet it's showing a code 34 (faulty knock sensor)

 

-Eric

its flashed slow 5 times then fast 5 times what ever that means

 

sounds like safetyboost.

 

Did you check for errorcodes ?...I bet it's showing a code 34 (faulty knock sensor)

 

-Eric

Code 55 means all clear. I'd try sorting the battery terminal to rule that out first. Intermittant faults are often down to something electrical :)

 

Pete

Is it posible that your positive terminal is breaking contact, the engine is draining all the power out the system (thereby resetting your ecu) and making contact again? a) you would be constantly going into "learning mode" and b) it would hide any fault codes.

 

 

This may be a bit outlandish but its possible and I am a bit excited cos my pizza just turned up :)

Is it posible that your positive terminal is breaking contact, the engine is draining all the power out the system (thereby resetting your ecu) and making contact again? a) you would be constantly going into "learning mode" and b) it would hide any fault codes.

 

 

This may be a bit outlandish but its possible and I am a bit excited cos my pizza just turned up :)

 

I managed to get the battery connection on tight then went for test drive and same problem. I really unsure what causes it as somedays no problems, but somedays its has no power.

Check the yellow connector on the upper metal rad pipe for corrosion...

Hi guys,

 

noticed that after driving my car for 20 mins its seems to loose power when i try to boot it. If i boot it a further 4 times it gains a bit more power each time. If i switch of the car and restart straigt away its fine again. I do have a prblem with the positive terminal on my battery working itself loose all the time which i will be replacing. Would this cause said power loss. watching the stock turbo guage its normally just over the last but one line. then it only goes as far as the 3/4 mark line then it goes back up but only to just before the last but one line. Am going to order a proper boost guage to be more accurate. The engine does not sound any different to me but then im no expert and i seem just to hear the exhaust when i listen for noises. The idle is roughish sometimes and a little vibration from car when sat at lights, but i put that down to the mongoose exhausts resonating

 

Definitely sounds like your running safety boost. Your ECU could be potentially faulty also.

 

I suggest finding someone either locally or from this forum who can run a CONZULT diagnostic check to see how your car is behaving.

 

If you need a contact let me know.

 

Cheers

Definitely sounds like your running safety boost. Your ECU could be potentially faulty also.

 

I suggest finding someone either locally or from this forum who can run a CONZULT diagnostic check to see how your car is behaving.

 

If you need a contact let me know.

 

Cheers

 

Only had the car 2 months and its only been on the road a week so dont know anybody who is local. Its already cost £1600+ to fix (4 new tyres, New Exhaust, New N/s Bottom Ball Joint, New N/s track Control Arm. Still goes into saftey boost and still judders like a git when braking.

 

never had so many problems with a car, even my 20 year old £2000 Porsche felt a better car.

Only had the car 2 months and its only been on the road a week so dont know anybody who is local. Its already cost £1600+ to fix (4 new tyres, New Exhaust, New N/s Bottom Ball Joint, New N/s track Control Arm. Still goes into saftey boost and still judders like a git when braking.

 

never had so many problems with a car, even my 20 year old £2000 Porsche felt a better car.

 

The juddering could be down to warped disks.

As for the engine losing power, could be a number of things but the AFM (Air flow meter) is a common item to go faulty. Might be worth swapping that with a known good as these can go intermittantly faulty & not show up as a fault on the ecu.

The vibration could be due to a knackered gearbox mount, I've seen that a couple of times.

 

All these bits can be supplied from people on this forum for little expense

The juddering could be down to warped disks.

As for the engine losing power, could be a number of things but the AFM (Air flow meter) is a common item to go faulty. Might be worth swapping that with a known good as these can go intermittantly faulty & not show up as a fault on the ecu.

The vibration could be due to a knackered gearbox mount, I've seen that a couple of times.

 

All these bits can be supplied from people on this forum for little expense

 

took off the fuse box cover and there is no relay/fuse in the sub fan is this what controls the fan in front of the radiator. if so would this case the gearbox to get hot and the car to go into saftery boost because of it. drove the car realy lightly today for 40 mins in traffic and when i got to the dual carridgeway full boost was still there.

Check the yellow connector on the upper metal rad pipe for corrosion...

 

Duffers, when i take a piss in the mornings, it feels like it burns...

 

Would this be the Yellow Temp Sensor too??

 

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

:slap: :slap: :slap: