When changing the oil, would it be recommended to use an engine flush, then new oil, or no engine flush, or both and an additive , such as STP, or slick 50 etc ?? Its a t/t.

When changing the oil, would it be recommended to use an engine flush, then new oil, or no engine flush, or both and an additive , such as STP, or slick 50 etc ?? Its a t/t.

 

Engine flush should not be needed, use a good quality synthetic, NO ADDITIVES, and change your oil and filter regular. There is a big difference of opinion on the grade, I personally think a minimum of 10/40, or maybe 15/50 in the summer.

 

Non turbos will be fine with 10/40 Castrol Magnatec semi synth, mines a n/a, but last oil change I put Mobil 1 15/50, costs a bit more, but over the year its not a great deal is it.

 

John

If you're really obsessive then maybe the flushing oil but skip the Slick 50 etc. If you believe the blurb then perhaps try the ZX1 friction modifier stuff, but that is a fairly contentious subject too. However, they use it in some race engines ....

When changing the oil, would it be recommended to use an engine flush, then new oil, or no engine flush, or both and an additive , such as STP, or slick 50 etc ?? Its a t/t.

 

This is a question that came up in a previous thread i was in and i asked about additives and a few people came back with Extralub Z from Halfords. Its under the thread tick,tick,tick.... Everyone said stay away from slick 50!!

 

 

Jonce

IMO only one thing should pass through the OILWAYS of an engine - OIL!!! ;)

Don't use SLick 50. It has no active ingredients. It used to contain PTFE which caused lots of problems.

 

Additives shud already be in the oil. It is possible to add small amounts to an existing oil, but unless u no wot u r doing, too risky.

 

More expensive oils take longer to break down and handle muck better, reducing engine deposit build-up. BUT, all oils get dirty and degraded in use, so best to change more often than your manual recommends. Most ppl use semi- or fully-synth in Zeds. High temps in tubo-engine degrade oil faster and minerals are probably not up to the job. Chnage every 3-4000 miles or six months. Best changed early spring and late autumn, as winter use degrades oils faster.

 

The best fully synth oils already contain friction modifiers, so best only to add them to cheaper oils.