Started stripping the HICAS off today while I was in there doing the timing belt.

 

Basically found that to get rid of all the hydraulic pipe, solenoids etc. isn't too hard.

You can use an N/A pump as I have, or by the looks of it open up the second chamber on the TT one and remove the veins from the impellar. NA is neater and much lighter though.

For the resevoir you could get an NA one which would be neatest or use the TT one, block off the HICAS return line then modify the TT pump intake to fit the NA pump (Blank off the second inlet that would go to the HICAS section of the pump).

 

Obviously you need the eliminator bar too!

Will try to get some Pics tomorrow to show what's come off - it's quite surprising. Got to be 25kg there.

I see another FAQ section coming ;)

Yeah, maybe!

Got most of it done today other than the actual rear bar.

It's pretty tricky actually. You need the NA mount (which is ali instead or iron and is 2kg lighter) and the alternator mount extension from an NA too as that forms part of the adjuster.

The NA pump has more offset from the mount than a TT one, so you need to use the NA pully, which then means an NA belt (or cut one ridge from the TT one like I did !!!)

PAS still working OK, so no problems I can see :cool:

Not that I'm interested in modding,sounds like a lot of work, how much will it give you times wise, from what I've read youv'e already won the power to mods to money spent ratio with a bit of chip mods.

In terms of acceleration etc. it will be totally negligible. The only power saving is not driving the HICAS pump.

I did it because I hate the way HICAS handles and didn't see the point leaving all the hydraulics in there if the rack was gone. I was in there doing the cam belt anyway, so it seemed the best time to do it.

Oh, and I've freed some space in the engine bay if I want to put a breather tank in there!

had mine done at se

makes the car feel less nervous

worth doing