Bit of advice needed

A small bubble under the paint on the rear wheel arch appeared about the size of a penny. I took the paint off, coated it with rust cure and repainted it. After a month it is starting to come back so i presume it is corroding from the inside. The problem is it can't be accessed due to the inner wing. How do I stop the currosion?

 

Cheers

 

Ady

You have to get like a dentist going at a bad tooth and cut out all the rot. You'll find that the inner bid inside the wheel arch has it too and you need to get that out as well. I guess you have a UK car like me and only these bubbles on the off side at just about the 10 or 11 o'clock position on the arch?

 

I did mine a year or so ago and its still OK. Filled the inside with waxoyl at the same time and into sills as well.

 

Putting on some rust cure on the surface is a waste of time. Fraid it means some plastic filler in the arch.

I got a rust bubble!

not as big as a penny. On the rear wheel arch, how wierd!

Also got rust spot under drivers wing mirror! Foook sounds like I got a rust bucket which it aint!!

Arthur

Cheers willie

It must seem a bit drastic when you start drilling out but I thought this was what some one was going to say but thought I better check before I attacked it incase there was some new product out there.

 

Hi authur, thats just how I felt as my car is almost mint well apart from some one hitting the front wing the other week and of course the disintigrating spoiler but I can easily put those right, I always think that once a wheel arch starts to go then thats it but I will have to get my white rubber gloves on and a white smock

make my breath smell and play dentist for a day.

 

By the way would I be right in saying that it looks like the rust is where the inner and outer wings are spot welded, I say this because the paint blemish was round

 

Willie

was there an actual hole on your wing? When I cleaned the paint of the metal was still very solid.

 

Cheers..........thanks for the replys (at least it's not just me)

 

Ady

Ady,

If there is no hole, don't start cutting or drilling for god's sake!!! you were probably not thourough enough the first time, most rust cure stuff is also shite!!.

 

This is what to do,

 

Completely remove all traces of rust to clean steel using suitable grade production paper, use an acid based rust remover if needed to aid this (I like jenolite) several times if needed.

 

When every last speck of rust has been removed, clean up and paint over with etch (acid based) primer, primer filler, top coat, as needed.

 

Don't believe any shit on products about "converting rust" to stable whatever.... you need to remove it all manually, and I mean all, or you might as well not bother!!

 

Or go and buy a Jap import!!!:rofl: :rofl:

 

Paul N

Hi Ady

 

I had exactly the same problem, in exactly the same spot as WillieO.

 

I got my mechanic to send the car to his body repair centre, cost me £200 for cash:D

 

No sign of it now, looks good as new:dance:

 

Richard

Ok Ok Ok

Thanks paul I havn't got a stutter just thinkin' what to do for the best, obviously I will take your advice as I don't really want to dress like a dentist for a day and play driller killer on my Z.

My mrs may get a bit jealous now and again but if she saw me doing that she would go mental espescially as I have told her that she can use the car for work (I drive 60 miles a day she drives 8) ......(whoops going off on one).

Ok back to the problem, the rust must be penertrating (I love that word) from the inside so if I wax oil the inside when dry and then follow your instructions will that work?

I thought that if you cut the air supply to rust (stop oxygenating) rust cannot spread (did I make that word up).

So can we resolve this before I look out the window and see a heap of rusting old Datsun that I used to see whenever I looked at a 280Z.

 

cheers

 

Ady

The trouble is even a good DIY bodywork repair usually sticks out like a sore thumb.

Are you gonna spray a small area or the whole arch?

Can you match the colour perfectly?

IMO its best left to a trusted bodyshop.

you can only get rid of rust if you grind or cut it out, then cos its on a wheel arch which is double skinned you need to seal it from behind as to prevent water getting to the back of the repair otherwise in a months time it will bubble up again

try using seam sealer and make sure the lip on arch way is sealed as well as water tends to creep through the arch

Richard;)

Unfortunately, if it has penatrated through from the inside out, you will need to cut it out, I was assuming from what you said it was external corrosion only!

Ok

I think we are getting there. Just to clarify that the paint started to bubble but there was no hole in the paint infact when I first spotted it I pricked it with a pin and there was water in there so it must have come from the inside of the wing.

so it looks like I may take trevs advice and get it to a good body shop.

 

Cheers

 

Ady

Simple test to see how bad is to place the tip of a screwdriver against the rust and press - be ready for a shock as you go right through it - if its good steel nothing will happen - except if you dont hold the screwdriver tight andf it skids up the wing scoring as it goes!

 

The wing is double skinned there and the bit inside the wheelarch will be rotten too. I think it catches condensation inside or the drainaige from the top. Funny as the nearside is perfect.

 

I had bother matching the red perfectly too - I can just see it in some light but nobody else seems to spot it.

 

Take a look at the rear lower part of the sills too - if the wheel arch has got it so's your sills.