OK, just ran a tranny (auto) diag as per got rice?'s instructions on TTnet..

 

The diag came back with codes 1 & 2 - that is;

 

1. Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected

and

2. Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected

 

My question is - is the revolution sensor the same beast as the crank angle sensor?

And I'm guessing the speed sensor circuit would explain the odd steering behavior (sometimes light, sometimes heavy etc) - but.. Where is the speed sensor? Somewhere hard to get to I'll bet

 

ECU diag came up 55 BTW... Sigh, knew I shoulda done a tranny diag too originally..

If you are getting code 55 from your ecu then your crank angle sensor is OK so that rules that out. Why not do a manual conversion

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Hiya mate from experience the speed sensor is slightly magnetic and any crap /bits etc stick to it and give a shorted or fault code reading.Again from experience the gearbox can still operate but if there are bits of metal loose its only a matter of time..sorry oh yes if you have intermiitent drive loss this confirms all I have said as the bits intermitently block the filter then clear again so no line pressure then back again. The box I got involved with had broken a bearing inside ... was easier to replace with good 2nd hand unit again sorry but then it could be you just have a duff sensor..Happy Weekend Jeff TT

Ta Jeff..

 

I haven't had drive loss around town etc etc, but if I nail it on the motorway, it'll get to about 60Mph, then it's like I've jumped off the gas, revs will sit at 4k, and I'm coasting..

 

Off the gas, and back on, and it will go up to say 80 and do the same...

 

Oh dear

 

Az

 

[This message has been edited by aaronjb (edited 18-08-2001).]

what does the gearbox oil look/smell like ?

When was the oil changed in the gearbox (if ever) ?

 

About the sensors: it might be something less serious as you think.

It may be just a shorted, disconnected or corroded connector somewhere.

You can replace the revolution-sensor without removing the gearbox.

Best thing to check the connector(s) with a multimeter.

Look in the service manual if you want to know where the connectors are for the revolution sensor

 

the speed-sensor isn't really a sensor..it's just a connection to your speedo-meter.

I would check all connectors in the ECU's..pull the connectors out, spray them in with contact-spray and put it back in firmly.

That'll probably solve the speed-sensor problem and the occasional heavy steering.

 

The speed-sensor problem can also be caused by a dodgy speed-convertor (if you have one..)

 

-Eric

 

 

[This message has been edited by lymon (edited 18-08-2001).]

Eric,

 

The gearbox oil was a bit dark actually, but didn't smell burnt - my fingers did however (ouch ouch burning ouch).. I'll check that again tomorrow (if it ever stops raining!)..

 

The revolution sensor is on the drivers (or is it pass) side of the box if I'm reading the manual correctly? I'll try and have a look at that tomorrow with a multimeter..

 

And do the ECU connections - when I did the ECU diag I noticed that there seems to have been some patching of wires down there, and the ECU is a "remanufactured" Nissan unit.. So perhaps some fiddling with the loom is necessary (glad I bought a bucket load of bullet connectors today!)

 

This is a stupid question I know - but where are the jacking points on these things? I'm gonna need to get under it aren't I...

 

Thanks for lifting the gloom slightly Eric

 

On a better note - I replaced the head unit The original wasn't a Bose (wahoo) but did have that stupid aerial connector (boo).. Ahh well - can't win 'em all.

 

Az

Az, I would get the tranny-oil flushed and changed (this is expensive) and I'd strongly recommend to have a tranny-cooler installed at the same time, since you have a car that is in the "tranny danger zone"

 

The rev. sensor is on the passenger side for RHD-cars

 

Jacking up points on the front are just before the doors (there are little marks)

for the jacking up points on the back, just look for these same marks..

Or..look at serv. manual, section "general information" page 22/23

or...get a set of decent ramps (those real big ones)

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by lymon (edited 18-08-2001).]

A tranny cooler was on the cards, ok perhaps not quite this soon! But never mind I guess.. How much is expensive BTW? (for a flush and refill of the box oil) Spose now I gotta find somewhere that can do it for me too - or is it possible do DIY?

 

I'll look for those marks tomorrow (when it'll hopefully be dry!)..

 

Just to make it all worse the handling seems to have gone to sh1t now Bumps/ruts/manhole covers make the front end dance around like its on acid

 

Az

These cars are quite sensitive to road camber & irreglarities and even more so with certain types of tyre and more again with worn tyres.

Have yours worn evenly ? If not get the tracking etc double checked by someone who knows what they're doing before you shred the new set of tyres.

I dunno about the cost of the flush/change in the UK, but here in Holland it is expensive as hell.

For the price of the oil-flush/change just call a Nissan-dealer and make sure you sit in a chair

 

You can do the oil change yourself though, but the flush is a bit of a hassle if you haven't got the right equipment.

 

Basically what you then need to do is buy lots of ATF, try to get as much oil out of the system, fill it up with the new oil.

Drive the car for a few days, once again change the oil and try to get as much as possible of the "old" oil out, put new oil in and repeat this process until the oil stays clean.

 

there's a writeup on Zhome:

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/autotrannyoilchange/autotrannyoilchange.html

 

-Eric

 

[This message has been edited by lymon (edited 18-08-2001).]

Andy - yeah they're worn evenly all the way across.. They are basically slicks on the front mind you - and it was wet.. Manhole covers were very scary - at 40MPH! I have a feeling a set of bushes might be needed somewhere, but I'm not sure which ones yet.. Need to get it in the air and wobble stuff..

 

Eric - Thanks.. I think I'll go for changing the oil several times (well used to doing that, admittedly on other cars) and fitting a cooler.. Would I be right in thinking that basically a standard oil cooler with the right fittings will do fine, and that it should be simply a case of unscrewing the oil lines to the standard cooler, and screwing them onto the new cooler (and fixing the cooler somewhere, obviously)..?

 

Thanks for everyones help

That's basically the pan with the cooler, you just have to find somewhere to put it. Mine is kind of in front of the maid rad but lower down to the right (when facing it). I think you're better off with a short wide one as it's easier to find mounting space.

 

wrt the transmission fluid, you'll need gallons and gallons of the stuff. I think the box holds about 12 litres.

Well - I was planning on getting under the car today and having a look at the sensor.. But seeing how it's rained nearly all day again.... I really can't be arsed now..

 

12ltrs hey.. Ouch - that's gonna cost me a packet in ATF!

 

Anyone know what the fittings are for the std ATF cooler in the rad are? (size/type) so I know what cooler to order? Ta

Bloody hell, my typing/spelling is shot to pieces today !

Does anyone know any online stores that sell ATF at a reasonable price? I don't fancy buying 9ltr (according to my service manual) of ATF in Halfords.. Mainly because they'd never have that many 1ltr bottles on the shelf! (Took me three weeks to buy 4ltr of manual fluid for the Renault!)

I think Jeff was talking recently about some trade supplier he had ...

 

 

Cool.. Jeff, jeff where fore art thou jeff?

 

Az