Hi peeps,

 

Have done searches already but can't find the answer. Aplogies in advance.:o

 

I have a Helix fast road clutch which essentially is a standard Nissan disc with heavier cover thingy.

 

I have found that if I start 'n' stop in a lot of traffic the bite point of the clutch is almost at the floor prolly an inch off :(

 

After some normal driving the clutch point returns to a more acceptable position.

 

SE have now bled the system but I feel it is still there. The bite point is a few inches off the floor at a guess. Theres a few inches of slack when applying the pedal from top then it starts to feel stiff (ooh errr missus!!)

 

Some threads suggest that I might need a new slave cylinder. Probably worth a try if I can get one cheap as my moter has done 128k miles.

 

I had a "Crazy Eddie" idea of removing the pipe that goes to the clutch bleed point in the engine, as all this extra pipe would contain fluid that would still need to be compressed (I think), I am thinking that the less pipe containing fluid the better, this is just a guess.

 

Can anyone help?

 

Ta,

 

Edds.

The idea behind hydraulic systems is that the liquid hydraulic fluid is virtually incompressible. Thus the volume of liquid in the system shoulded make any reall difference. as soon as you have the first few bubble of gas in the system then the issue dramatically changes since the movement of the liquid then compresses the gas before the gas moves the liquid on the other side of it.

 

So there should not be any benefit

I know SGP do a braided clutch hose now - supposed to have the same benefits of braided brake hoses - could be a worthwhile mod :confused:

Dave

I had the same thing,i could have sworn some dwarf adjusted the clutch when i wasn't looking............

 

I pulled the biting point up and down a little 'till i was happy,now it seems to be fine..

 

Alex

Try emailing Jez......he had similar problems with his clutch.

 

Aside of the clutch problem, how are you getting on with the new rebuild?

 

Steve E

Originally posted by Steve E

Try emailing Jez......he had similar problems with his clutch.

 

Aside of the clutch problem, how are you getting on with the new rebuild?

 

Steve E

 

Thanks for the tip Steve.

 

Running engine in at the mo Steve. Done 900 miles so 1100 to go. It's good to be back in the Zed. SE sorted my smoking with a temporary breather, which Pete said it will need a catch tank on when the cars run in and tuned up. So far I am happy with the job done on the engine, but we'll see how this develops when the engine is run in and I am making proper boost.

 

One question you could answer.

 

I have a knocking sound when the engine is running when it is cold. Pete has shown me that this is to do with the JE forged pistons because, the material they are made from expands more than the material of stock pistons, so you need more clearance around the bore to allow for expansion. Pete explained that when the car warms up the knocking goes away. This is exactly what my car does so I guess it's fine. Do you get the knocking sound with all forged pistons or is it the JE ones?

 

Ta,

 

Edds.

Originally posted by crazy_eddie

Thanks for the tip Steve.

 

One question you could answer.

 

I have a knocking sound when the engine is running when it is cold. Pete has shown me that this is to do with the JE forged pistons because, the material they are made from expands more than the material of stock pistons, so you need more clearance around the bore to allow for expansion. Pete explained that when the car warms up the knocking goes away. This is exactly what my car does so I guess it's fine. Do you get the knocking sound with all forged pistons or is it the JE ones?

 

Ta,

 

Edds.

 

Hi Dave,

 

Don't worry, piston slap with a cold engine is fairly common because of the extra clearance required. Just keep the throttle light and rpms below 3000 while warming up. Should sound sweet as a nut once warm though!

 

Stock cast pistons require a clearance of 0.0015" whereas forged pistons required between 0.0030" to 0.0050" As you mentioned, the JE composition has a larger expansion rate than cast steel.

 

Look under this website for some interesting forged piston information

 

http://www.takakaire.com

 

Go to....... Performance parts - TOMEI - pistons

 

I would like to know more about your smoking problem. Does this effect your oil level regularly?

 

My Z doesn't smoke and doesn't have any aftermarket breather system which is why I'm interested in why your need one.

 

Steve E

Originally posted by Steve E

I would like to know more about your smoking problem. Does this effect your oil level regularly?

 

My Z doesn't smoke and doesn't have any aftermarket breather system which is why I'm interested in why your need one.

 

Steve E

 

Steve, the smoke has been there since my first re-build over a year ago. When SE did my first engine they also fitted brand new SE Stage 2 turbos (roller bearing and larger compressor wheel). I also had their exhaust system fitted. I already had their down pipes and car didn't smoke then (pre-rebuild). The smoke always comes out of the driver's side exhaust now. At first Pete said it was the turbos bedding in but when the smoke didn't go away he said I needed the breather. Can't remember what Pete said about it except that I needed a breather installed. (I am sure if do a search you might my old posts on it).

 

I would be very interested in your feedback as smoke could be a signe of turbo oil seel problems I believe, I would be very dissapointed if I have been given faulty turbos.:rolleyes:

 

I don't seem to have any oil usage at the moment or before. Have done 950 miles in it now and oil level is still on the max. I do clean the dipstick and check all 4 sides and take the lowest reading. I usually do this 3 times to confirm as well. And it still reads on or just above the maximum level. Maybee they overfilled it!!

 

Oh well!! more surfing to do.

 

LaterZ,

 

Edds.