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I know it's a probabal no no, but is there anyway of removing the passanger side turbo without engine removal?

 

Thanks

 

Vijay

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dont know a lot about zeds, but was told this was possible to do but, cos its a complete ball ache!, its far easier and cost effective labour wise to get the engine out :(

Originally posted by vijay

I know it's a probabal no no, but is there anyway of removing the passanger side turbo without engine removal?

 

Thanks

 

Vijay

 

I think you can from underneath the car.

  • Author
I think you can from underneath the car

 

that's what I was hoping...............................

 

Vijay

One thing to remove it - just try putting it and all the pipework

back in place and tightening it all up to the specified torque!

Having done it Iwould say bite the bullet and pull the engine.

So much more you can do with the engine out.

Could save you alot of work in the future!

Perhaps with one exception - if you are fixing it to get rid of quick.

Otherwise pull the engine.

 

Mark

  • Author

the problem I've got is that one of the bolts that fixes the turbo to the exhaust manifold is sheared and it's blowing from there. I've put a new gasket on it and plenty of exhaust sealant but it's not sitting flat (it worked for about 3 months but has come loose :( ).

 

The reason I wanted to remove the turbo is the drill out and re stud it.

 

Vijay

Originally posted by vijay

the problem I've got is that one of the bolts that fixes the turbo to the exhaust manifold is sheared and it's blowing from there. I've put a new gasket on it and plenty of exhaust sealant but it's not sitting flat (it worked for about 3 months but has come loose :( ).

 

The reason I wanted to remove the turbo is the drill out and re stud it.

 

Vijay

 

thats a harsh thing to have to whip a lump out for :(

No way you can use something like helacoil or is there defo not the space?

  • Author
thats a harsh thing to have to whip a lump out for

 

your not wrong there Arry. My mechanic would probably do it real cheap but it's just all that work for one poxy bolt:mad: :mad:

 

That's the problem I think - severe lack of space up there, not sure what tools I'd be able to get up there, gonna go and see my mechanic in the morning with fingers crossed........................

 

Vijay

I've welded studs (grinded in a V-shape at the bottom) onto sheared bolts - the idea is to weld at the bottom of the V if you know what I mean but it's a bit crude and I doubt you'd have the room to get in with the torch and certainly not a grinder (maybe a dremmel) if you put too much weld on it. The trick is to get it welded perfectly straight or you'll struggle to line up the flange holes afterwards.

 

Hope you get it sorted.

 

Shaunmac

  • Author

Does anyone know if 3 out of the 4 bolts/studs should be enough to hold the exhaust manifold tightly onto the turbo?

 

The original problem that caused this was the part that replaced the pre-cat was not machined correctly (Johnny :mad: ). The face that sits on the turbo was not flat but raised in the centre so you would get a rocking action when placed against the turbo. I'm gonna try removing it and getting it machined again and see what that does...........................

 

Vijay

vijay, you have pretty good access to that turbo with the gearbox removed..

And if that doesn't give you enough access yet, you can always lower the engine by lowering the front suspension member.

You'll have to pull the gearbox anyhow, also if you want to remove the turbo without pulling the engine.

 

Oh.. and I've driven for a long time with just 3 out of 4 bolts and it didn't leak.

 

-Eric

  • Author

Thanks Eric, I'll try getting it machined first and if not I'll ask my mechanic about removing the gearbox. Am I right in saying the gearbox has to be removed to do a clutch and flywheel?

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

Yes, easiest wat to give yourself a chance is :

 

Remove PS Cat,

Remove Downpipe

Remove DS

Remove Gearbox ( Yes to replace clutch and Flywheel you have to do this ! )

 

Remove Intake piping,

Remove motor mount nuts

 

Taking care where the loom and heater/coolant pipes are you can now tilt the engine a bit which often allows better access.

 

I would also be VERY VERY carefull with shallacking that shit exhaust sealent ( i will not let this shit near my car, use a real gaskett or dont do the ****in job dude ) especially in the place you have put it is, that shit gets into your turbo it aint gonna like it, i have seen more than 1 seazed turbo with liquid gaskett in there.

 

I would try gettin a stud welded on there, worse case scenario, just mate it up good and weld the sucker to the Stud, when you replace the turbo replace the manifold as well ( 20 quid used and plenty around) - It aint perfect but if you wanna short term fix !

 

It is gonna be a tricky job but for this you can deffo avoid taking the engine out if you just need to get it fixed on the cheap.

 

Peace

 

Nico

  • Author

Hello Nico,

 

Yeah, I wasn't too happy about my mate using the exhaust sealant sttuff so close to the turbo but I was in a bit of a tight spot :rolleyes: and he assured me it would be fine and not break up, looks like he's another mechanic who doesn't know how to work on Z's.

 

I had my turbos replaced about 2 years ago so I'm hoping not to have to pull the engine in the near future. I'll speak to my mechanic tomorrow and see when he can do my clutch.

 

Thanks for everyones help,

 

Vijay

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