Bought the car (the T shirt and the poor life style with this car) but I don't know what oil I should put in it. I don't know what the previous owner put in (Mr Japnipson (thats not racist I hope)). I heard it's not wise to mix decent engine oils AND turbo cars burn oil as a natural event...

 

more frikkki expense.

 

 

Happy owner(pissed)

 

 

Rod

Castrol RS 10/60 as advised by the Guru himself.

No it's dont mix synthetic with mineral;)

Castrol RS 10/60 every time,been giving my car PAIN for three years,oil changes every 3k and it is still going strong;)

I think you can mix them, (synthetic and mineral) as they do mix, but the mineral oil will degrade the synthetic down to the minerals poor quality level, thus making the synthetic pointless.

 

Best bet use fully synthetic (one brand if poss) and stick with it.

What if you mix semi-synthetic with fully synthetic?

I noticed yesterday that my oil pressure guage was acting stranger than normal! So I stopped at a petrol station and checked my oil level. It was a bit low, so to be on the safe side I thought I had better top it up. I was only able to get semi from the garage so I put about half a litre of it in !!

Is that OK?

Cheers,

F.T.

I'm unsure of the oil in it at the moment so is mixing of good quality oil and the standard crap going to screw me up

FT. It wont hurt the car, it will just mean that your car is now using or as good as semi synthetic, instead of fully synthetic with a bit of semi in it.

 

Thats as far as I know anyway, some tecnical bod should be able to confirm/dismiss my theory.

Originally posted by Rod dude

I'm unsure of the oil in it at the moment so is mixing of good quality oil and the standard crap going to screw me up

 

Why you gonna mix it? You're doing a complete change right? and the filter?

 

You worried about the bit left kinda stuck to the inside of the engine etc? That'll be fine dude.

I'm a low budget member so want to have a low budget car ( some hope ) I actually think that my car mechanically is OK(visually naff) the mechanical aspect of the car is important to keep good

Rod I can't understand why you want to mix the oil in your new Z?????,The most important thing you should do is give the car an oil and filter change:rolleyes: as James said.

I always pour a little bit in with the sump plug out when doing a change, probably completely usless, but like to think it gives it a bit of a flush.

Originally posted by b19rks

I think you can mix them, (synthetic and mineral) as they do mix, but the mineral oil will degrade the synthetic down to the minerals poor quality level, thus making the synthetic pointless.

 

Best bet use fully synthetic (one brand if poss) and stick with it.

 

 

Ok here you go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mixing Two Other Types

 

It is said synthetic oils are compatible with the conventional mineral oils, thus it is safe to mix two different types, but for sealing purposes and the final performance of your engine i suggest you choose one at the beginning, and never change your oil type.. It is known that the content of mineral oils are different than synthetic oils, and mineral oil soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. So, you may think using flushing oil first, before switching another type as some people suggest. Yes, the flushing oil removes all the deposits and dissolves all the mineral oil deposits in your engine and you may think everything is ok for switching to synthetic oil, but using a thin oil for flushing may remove deposits that built-in time and work for sealing your rings and gasgets. It is known that engines over 250,000 km worked without a problem, but when flushed it failed in a month. So choose one at the very beginning, flush your engine if necessary, and never change the oil type. Only move to a different weight in the same type, if it’s necessary because of a considerable change in temperature zone, cause the viscosity must be adapted to the conditions in which the vehicle is used, the environment and the climatic conditions.

MAC1

 

What is the source for that quote you gave?

 

Seems to me that semi synthetic is a mixture anyway of synthetic and mineral oil. I've been using fully synthetic for 3 years in a zed that had only semi synthetic all of its high mileage life. Result no problems no leaks. I use full synthetic in another high mileage turbo car that also had semis with all the dealer services - again no problem and no leaks.

 

I have no problem topping up full synthetic with semi synthetic. It mixes fine and does the lub thing. I'd like to know for sure if this is wrong but I dont think it is. If it was you'd see warnings all over the sides of the oil packs.

 

just my 2p

Just for you WillieO;)

 

 

 

http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/a_oil.html

I used to be an agent for Q8 oils in Malta before I came here. I was also a motoring journalist and raced cars and am into studying more detail than is probably good for me anyway.

There is no such thing as fully synthethic oil. The oil sold as fully synthethic is only required legally to be partially synthethic - above a certain percentage - can't remember exactly how much but surprisingly low well under half.

They can be mixed and in most instances you would get something slightly below the quality of the middle of the two.

Oils are quite complex with all the array of additives and it would be the interaction of these various additives that would be determining the final quality.

Best is to stick to one oil but if the choice is between running short of oil and mixing - then mix.

I have one question for you guys now. I just bought a Zed. (TT UK Manual). What oil pressure should I expect with the right oil with warm engine idling and revving?

Rgds to all.

Mark (Camilleri)

You would expect approximately 10psi for every 1000prm, give or take .... but the oil pressure senders are often rubbish and will display all sorts of low numbers (if any!)

Mark, the oil pressure sender is well known for getting clogged up and the reading maybe show quite low but it won't be the true reading. (as Andy said, took a while to type that cos was on the phone so didn't see his reply!)

BTW, the type of oil pump used in Zed engines does not give a high pressure at low revs, like say a Ford pump would.

the oil pressure sender has a little gizmo that runs up and down a carbon variable resistor track with the varying resistance being related to pressure shown on the guage. I think it then wears out the middle bit where it mostly is moving day in day out. Result when its cold it goes way up to the bit with no wear and registers probably a true 70 or more psi 5 bar+ etc and when its ticking over hot its anywhere around the 20psi (2/3rds the way to 30psi) mark.

 

Every now and then it reads correctish with middle guage 50-60 at 3000rpm hot. Mine seems to do this for days then reverts to 30psi again but always high when started from cold.

 

My 240Z was exactly the same

Mine starts just over halfway then after a while is barely over 0!!

Should I replace it with a new one and if so is it hard to do?:eek:

Cheers,

F.T.

You could replace it Tone but it will only clogg up again in time.

My first zed one was shite, but that was what the the same as the rest of the car!!!

 

The current one is fine when i start up the reading seems a little high but i think this is normal when the engine is cold, then its anywhere from a quarter to 5/6 of the way up the guage, dare say it will pay it soon though like everything else seems to be!!