Has anyone had to renew the metal pipes that go to the engine oil cooler behind the bumper. Mine appear to be leaking slightly due to rust. Could I use high pressure rubber hose to replace the metal pipes ??

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

AndyZ

Yes Andy have seen this a few times and always on UK Zeds......dam British weather!!

 

It is very much easier to replace with hose and leave the metal pipes in place (PITA to remove) any good hydrolic pipe supplier will sort you out, should cost you less than a tenner to repair including new clips.

 

 

Jeff TT

Jeff

 

Thanks for the advice. So do you replace only the bit of pipe thats leaking or replace all of the pipe ??

 

Thanks again

 

AndyZ

Oh yeah and it is a UK model :eek:

Resurrecting an old thread here, but I have the same problem with a leaking, rusty metal pipe to the oil cooler. Mine's a jap spec though... I get a small river of oil out of mine, rather than a few drips! :eek:

 

Does anyone know what size hoses I need if I'm going to replace both the metal pipes with rubber hose?

 

Ta

8mm internal diameter ;)

its a bit of a job but id replace the pipes completly its not that bad bit fiddly passing it under subframe but thats it also theres about 4 10mm bolts holding it to gearbox,remember to replace the copper washers on the bolts each side of gearbox passing through the banjos,only downside you will have to refill the box with new oil!

B*gger! How long are these metal pipes? Is there a diagram anywhere of where they go?

 

Thanks

B*gger! How long are these metal pipes? Is there a diagram anywhere of where they go?

 

Thanks

 

 

no but its obvious when your unded vehicle if you follow the pipes that come from ther bottom of the radiator they go between the subframe and split of either side of the box inlet/oulet.2x19mm bolts and they come out!

 

passenger side is slightly higher up the box IIRC remove starter for more room aswell

Are we talking about the same metal pipes? I'm talking about the ones that carry the engine oil to the cooler, to the side of the radiator.

 

This may be a stupid question, but why would the oil cooler pipes go to the gearbox? :confused:

Quoted by Andy Z................"engine oil cooler"

 

Quoted by Dave Marley........."rusty metal pipe to the oil cooler"

 

Quoted by Greg..................." replace the copper washers on the bolts each side of gearbox"

 

 

Greg.....Greg......Greg, for gods sake man read the bloody thread before answering, know you learning but ......jeez!

 

Jeff TT

 

Ps. for your information: oil in engines fluid in auto box`s

Has anyone had to renew the metal pipes that go to the engine oil cooler behind the bumper. Mine appear to be leaking slightly due to rust. Could I use high pressure rubber hose to replace the metal pipes ??

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

AndyZ

 

 

had to remove mine as it was nearlly rotten through, I have one as a spare if you want it mate :D

Right, for anyone who did replace the metal pipes, did you replace just the metal pipes with rubber ones and get connectors to join the rubber pipes together, or did you replace the pipework all the way back to wherever it goes?

 

If you connected the rubber pipes together, where did you get the connectors? If you replaced the whole pipework, any idea where it goes to?

 

Ta

Quoted by Andy Z................"engine oil cooler"

 

Quoted by Dave Marley........."rusty metal pipe to the oil cooler"

 

Quoted by Greg..................." replace the copper washers on the bolts each side of gearbox"

 

 

Greg.....Greg......Greg, for gods sake man read the bloody thread before answering, know you learning but ......jeez!

 

Jeff TT

 

Ps. for your information: oil in engines fluid in auto box`s

 

alright calm down jeff we know you like having a dig to boast your ego,how very sad

Quoted by Greg: "alright calm down jeff we know you like having a dig to boast your ego,how very sad"

 

Not at all, far from it Greg, you do need to read posts more carefully though, if any technical question that has been answered incorrectly and is not corrected many members will view that answer and remember it, months later when the same question arises it will get answered incorrectly again by one of the readers of the original wrongly answered question and from a viewpoint of knowledge because they can remember it, this is how inacurate technical data gets distributed.

 

Jeff TT

Greg calm down no need! :nono:

 

You are a club trader now so please act like one.

Don't suppose anybody does know where the pipes go? ;)

 

Or the easiest way to route rubber pipes around the side of the radiator? I presume they wouldn't fit through where the metal pipes go as the gap looks too small?

 

Ta

Dave,

Sorry matey you still looking for an answer, right the steel pipes are a royal pain to remove and refit so leave them in place and run the rubber pipework past the drivers side of the radiator, there is a gap between the front tension rod support bracket and the upright adjacent to the radiator.

 

When you look it will seem impossible but if you check it out there is like a carboard like material infill which can be pulled out, run the pipes to the drivers side of the engine and pick up the steel pipes there, cut them back, make sure at least two inches of rubber pipe goes over the exhisting steel pipe and use double jubilee clips, you need to do this as the pipe will be straight ended ie: no bullnose bit on the end to retain help the pipe.

 

Use good quality cable ties to keep the two pipe together and in place, do remember to leave a little slack in though to allow for engine movement.

 

Although you will get a some oil leak from the original pipework you will not need to drain the sump, do check oil level after the job though and add as required.

 

 

The higher you can safely get the car the best for viewing and access, take all the plastic trim from under the radiator and the very front panel under the air filter area and the drivers side front wheel arch section where it meets at the front, also remove the headlight panel for some extra light, this works better if you have removed the original air box of course.

 

Hope this helps

 

Jeff TT

Thanks Jeff. I'll give that a go tomorrow.

 

I tried removing the front panel under the air filter and managed to just shear off the heads of 2 of the bolts, so I thought it was best to leave it instead. ;) If it'll make life a lot easier, I'll just have to try and get the bolts loosened off and removed.

 

Thanks again.

Dave,

Yes the bolts breaking is a pain and common too, will be worth it space wise though, drilling out the old bolts will be required though, or make UP some brackets to hold the panel up.

 

Good Luck.

 

Jeff TT