Hi guys/gals, its coming up to the dreaded cambelt replacement time in my Jap NA soon at 54K.

 

What I want to Know is what else should I be thinking about replacing/looking at /checking while front is in bits, that is sensible to do at the same time to save future expese/time etc.?

 

Is it also a must to source correct belt etc. from Mr.Nissan, bearing in mind what JeffTT has been saying and does this also apply to other engine service replacemnt parts?

 

The work will probably be done by local garage, who have been very good so far and work on BM,s , Lotii, mercs etc. as well as mine, but may use jap specialists Protech in Nailsea, will get quote first!

Would use Zedworld, but mucho distance from bristol!

 

Any thoughts/advice appreciated.

Any body had this done and what did it cost.

While it's out, change your water bottle too. Sounds daft, but it's as much of a job to change that as it is the cambelt...

You might want to replace the thermostat whilst the front is off.

*

I bought a cambelt from Nissan - came all marked-up which really helped - all you have to do is make all of the marks line up. When I replaced it everything else looked ok, but 3 months later the water pump packed-up (driving through France). And it's pretty much the same job to replace the pump as it is the belt - so it all had to be done again. Therefore I'd recommend belt, pump and thermostat.

 

good luck

 

Jack

Have a look at Courtesy Nissan's web site, they do a complete kit with everything that you need to change.

Cheers,

F.T.

Courtesy Nissan sell a full 60K service kit which includes all the belts, thermostat, water pump, tensioner, cam seals etc.

 

Its a must IMO.

 

Andy

Didn't I just say that!!

F.T.:confused:

Thaks for info. guys, however I was under the impression that 54K was time to do cambelt change, but some of you refer to 60K as being the mileage to do it at.

I suppose it would be better to do it earlier, but that extra 5k means a bit longer to save up for it.

Any thoughts or input.

I could check handbook I suppose?

I believe it is every 60k or 5 years which ever is sooner.

 

Vijay

Here's a thing i do when i change cam belts which i find makes it easier for me .

 

First take all the plugs out so the engine can be turned over easier with a socket on the crank pulley.

 

When the cam belt on any car is exposed and everthing is out of the way get a REALLY sharp knife/Scapel and cut into the edge of the old cam belt just past the halfway mark now carefully cut along the length of the cam belt whilst you or helper(preferred) tuns the engine over very very slowly so that you can keep the knife at one place while cutting the belt.

When the belt is cut completley around carefully separate the two halves, now get the new belt and very very carefully push it onto the teeth evenly as possible, use a small flat piece of wood and very gently ease it on all the way round. When its on and touching the old belt cut the "OLD" belt off, now very carefully ease the belt on all the way, you may have to compress the belt tensioner slightly when you cut the old belt off and at the same time as compressing push the belt(NEW) home all the way by the tensioner.

This save's haveing a fit if you accidently move the cam wheels when the belts off or some other mishap, also on one of my car it save haveing to re-shim it every time i change the belt .

 

HTH

regards

Here's a thing i do when i change cam belts which i find makes it easier for me .

 

First take all the plugs out so the engine can be turned over easier with a socket on the crank pulley.

 

When the cam belt on any car is exposed and everthing is out of the way get a REALLY sharp knife/Scapel and cut into the edge of the old cam belt just past the halfway mark now carefully cut along the length of the cam belt whilst you or helper(preferred) tuns the engine over very very slowly so that you can keep the knife at one place while cutting the belt.

When the belt is cut completley around carefully separate the two halves, now get the new belt and very very carefully push it onto the teeth evenly as possible, use a small flat piece of wood and very gently ease it on all the way round. When its on and touching the old belt cut the "OLD" belt off, now very carefully ease the belt on all the way, you may have to compress the belt tensioner slightly when you cut the old belt off and at the same time as compressing push the belt(NEW) home all the way by the tensioner.

This save's haveing a fit if you accidently move the cam wheels when the belts off or some other mishap, also on one of my car it save haveing to re-shim it every time i change the belt .

 

HTH

regards

Mas that is an unbelievable method to suggest on a forum where some one might actual try it!!

 

I know that method was mentioned in a Car Mechanics magazine some years ago BUT was in reference to a Vauxhall Cavalier!!!

 

That method is fool hardy and will definatley result in an incorrectly tensioned belt.

 

Another point that blows this method out of the water...what if the first belt is on wrong?

 

Jeeeeez !!

 

Jeff TT

Not to mention that you should be changing the auto tensioner at the same time (and you can't do that with a belt on)..

 

Plus that means you can't change the four cam seals, crank seal and VTC seals, that you should change at 60k...

Originally posted by Jeff TT

Mas that is an unbelievable method to suggest on a forum where some one might actual try it!!

 

I know that method was mentioned in a Car Mechanics magazine some years ago BUT was in reference to a Vauxhall Cavalier!!!

 

That method is fool hardy and will definatley result in an incorrectly tensioned belt.

 

Another point that blows this method out of the water...what if the first belt is on wrong?

 

Jeeeeez !!

 

Jeff TT

 

I dooooon't belieeeeeeeeve it!!! I agree :D:D:D ;)

 

Absolutely stupidly riduculous thing to do on a 300 IMO.

 

One point that never gets picked up on here - most of the cars are 10 years plus, and yet ppl say they're coming up to the 60k mileage mark - erm sorry but these cars should be on their 3rd belt by now! Mileage is only one way of deteriorating the belt, age also has a significant effect. So there! lol

 

Don't bother skimping on anything either - get the full kit from courtesy nissan as mentioned. When you replace the two small rubber hoses, wire brush the pipes on the heads that they fit on to - I bet half the coolant leaks on here are caused by water seeping through due to corrosion.

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

great stuff, will order cambelt kit etc. and get done asap.

Thanks again for tips, will take on board, except the one about splitting the belt.:)

 

JeffTT, what do you charge for this, its an NA mind, not so many bits to take off, discount etc.!!?? and can you supply parts or do I still have to get them.

They're talking about kevlar reinforced belts ....

 

 

http://www.neuralmotion.com/forum/index.cfm?action=getMessage&message=145440&forum=1

Hi Ray, prices for belts and other parts are on the web site (link below) I am sure you will find them competative also the photo diary of the work is always well received.

 

Jeff TT

 

PS. Prices shown are for non-forum members discounts are available to members.

 

Belt prices click here

Get it done at Zedworld mate... much less hassle and a good job... it was mine that the post about having the wrong belt and the potential horrors of cambelt problems... worth it for peace of mind...

Thanks Jeff be in touch shortly with list of work to do.

:)

the sun has got its hat on and were coming out to play...