Bit of update
so while on the dyno we discovered a few drops of oil under the car. A bit of investigation reveals the most likely culprit is a cam seal…. Annoying! So at some point I’ll have to pull the front of the engine off and install a new seal.
I’ve also been speaking to Brett at BDE and will be purchasing his now PS pulley for ATi crank pulley, which will resolve the issue of it spitting off its PS belt.
I’ve also been going through the datalogs of some of the drives I’ve had to identify the cause of the imbalance of fuelling between banks. While I’m not sure it’s totally the cause, I have found that the alternator is not keeping up with demand. While the pic shows voltage drop during a pull down to 13.06v, wider analysis identifies a direct correlation between the fuelling of the engine and the electrical systems being above or below 13.5v. So I’m going to have my alternator inspected, and if it’s performing as expected I’ll either look at having it uprated to 120amp (to offset the 24amp draw of the 525lph pump) or if that’s not possible I’ll look to upgrade to a 200amp unit from WPS or WOSP.
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nickz32 ·
New to the Forums here and I'm hoping someone can help me with getting my analogue dash-lights working again.
The story so far:
After reinserting my HVAC unit (and radio) the dash lights stopped working.
Checked dimmer switch: continuity established.
Replaced light stalk switch. Headlamps, turn signals all good.
Removed dash display to check connections and light bulbs. All are good.
Checked fuses.
Determined rear lights are working
Side switch-pod lights work.
Looked under the dash for disconnected wires. Nothing.
Managed to stop the 'It's not the idiot lights it's you that's an idiot.' voice warning.
All suggestions welcome.