last Friday when I was driving, I stopped at a red light and my car suddenly stalled. It was strange because the battery was new (800CCA) and everything had been running perfectly up to that point.

After that happened, I tried to figure out the issue. I checked the crank angle sensor. When I took it out and held it in my hand turning little bit , I heard a clicking sound. I also checked the PTU. I had already ordered a replacement PTU and swapped it in, but the Series 2 PTU I installed started getting really hot as soon as I turned on the switch—so hot that I couldn’t even touch it. I’m not sure why that happened; maybe the PTU I ordered was faulty or possibly a scam part.

After realizing that, I put my old PTU (ver1) back in. Then I took one spark plug out of the engine, connected it to a coil, and placed the coil on top of the engine to see if there was any spark. I cranked the engine, expecting to see a spark, but I didn’t see any at all.

Additionally, when I turn on the ignition, I can hear the fuel pump running, and when I remove the fuel filter, I can see fuel coming through, so it seems like fuel delivery is fine.


So now I’m a bit stuck. If anyone knows how to troubleshoot this further, please let me know. Thank you!

Mine recently had an issue where it would cut out after a bit of driving, usually when the engine got up to temperature. It turned out to be the PTU. I ordered a new series 2 from CZP and its been fine since. Buying proper parts does help with diagnosing issues.

Check the connections around the PTU and CAS, the boots on your PTU are damaged so it wouldn’t shock me if the pins were corroded etc. You’ve changed stuff around here so that would be my focus, especially the hot PTU description, did it come with an adapter harness? If I remember correctly it’s not a straight swap.

The CAS also looks like it’s slammed over, do you put back in the position it came out from?

On second look, the CAS does look normally positioned. I couldn’t see the right hand of the slot till I zoomed in.