Me:
Adam, born 1983, interests include movies, cars, computers and video games.

 

Personal Information:

Married to my beautiful wife Pauline in 2013, our first child Sebastian was born in 2014 and our second child Alessia was born in 2018.

 

Current Job Employment:

Working as a Retail Team Leader (RTL) for Repco Auto Parts, currently stationed at the Roxburgh Park store since 2016.

 

300ZX Experience:

Z32 enthusiast and novice mechanic since 2006.

Model:
12/89 Japanese Domestic Model (series I) None turbo 2+2 Automatic. chassis #GZ32-003944

Build Description:
Complete 2000 model retrofit and OEM+ restoration

Mileage:
Purchased with 97,220km and when I began this build project, the car had reached 190,483km

Body Colour:
OEM Metallic Silver (Paint Code: #673). resprayed in 2012 in same Metallic Silver.

 

Bodykit:
Complete OEM 2000 model body styling retrofit.

 

Engine Type:

OEM 3.0 Litre V6 2960 cc (Code: VG30DE) original engine.

 

Transmission Type:
Purchased with 4 Speed Automatic (Code #re4r01a). Replaced in 2007 and then replaced again in 2017

 

Interior Colour:

Purchased with original Grey Tweed (Code #G), retrofitted with OEM Blue Velour (series II) interior 2012.

Arrival modifications:
NOS Sticker on interior rear view mirror, otherwise bone stock fresh import from Japan.

Bad parts on arrival:
Cracked front bumper bar, plenty of minor scratches and marks on OEM body paint work, badly rusted battery tray, damaged drivers seat side bolster, missing OEM scissor jack and tool kit, no OEM stereo installed and the dashboard had the common lifted demister vent damage

Date of purchase:
September 2006

 

Build Project Start Date:

January 2012 to November 2021

Build Budget:
For Parts the budget was unlimited from 2007-2012 (estimated spend was around $60k-$70k)

 

For paint/bodywork the budget was strictly $5k no more.

 

Between 2012 to 2021 the budget for the build had diminished to almost nothing, with only essential repairs and general maintenance allowed to be spent on the car.

 

 

 

My 300ZX’s Story:

The 300zx was been a car that I fell in love with back in 1997 after playing the original Gran Turismo video game on my PlayStation gaming console as a young 14 year old, with the car’s stunning futuristic aerodynamic body styling being the biggest factor of why I love the 1990 Nissan 300ZX Z32 model.

 

 

In 2006 after several years of looking, I finally found an affordable 1989 Nissan 300ZX Z32 to buy in a none turbo 2+2 automatic configuration which had recently been imported into Australia that same year from Japan. I purchased the car for $7550, and it was the biggest day in my life up to that point and I remember having the biggest smile on my face the whole trip home as I was thrilled to finally own my very own Nissan 300ZX.

 

 

Over the next 5 years of ownership, I learned a great deal about the ins and outs regarding the Nissan 300ZX and the community that supports it. I attended many community events including tech days and several victorian based car cruises to places like the Great Ocean Road and the Goldfields to name a few. Over those 5 years I  have also had the pleasure of meeting a great many amazing and passionate Z32 owners who like me love this car for what it is, a great and unquie japanese sports car. I am glad to have meet them and they will always be life friends to me.

 

 

When I purchased my nissan 300ZX, I quickly developed a desire to not just restore my 300zx over time but I also wanted to upgrade it to that of the latest 300ZX model Nissan had ever produced, that being the 2000 Version R 300ZX model sold only in Japan, and are an uncommon sight to see here in Australia and still to this day. 

 

 

 

To complish my goal I spent 10's of thousands of dollars sourcing and collecting brand new, rare and optional OEM 300ZX Z32 parts from the United States and Japan over the span of 4 years in an attempt to create the world’s first fully optional Nissan 300ZX that could have ever existed.

 

 

In 2012 I had to begin the build phase of the project ahead of sechdule as my partner and I were in the process of organising our wedding day and honeymoon events that following year and so in order for me to help out with paying for some parts of the wedding, I stopped my part sourcing efforts and began the complex task of planning out the dismantling and reassembling phase of the project.

 

It took me 12 months of hard work to strip down my car and then reassemble it using all of the new and used parts that I had been sourcing over the last 4 years to make it as close to a 2000 special edition model as I could. I was extremely proud of the amazing work my Dad and I had accomplished with the build and I brought the car to its first official outing on the 2012 GOR cruise and the response from the community was very positive and lots of intrigue.

 

 

After 2012, my new and improved daily driver was driven as much as possible, almost everyday. The car collected over 100,000 kms after 10 years of driving and though the car was basically finished, I still managed to find more and more rare and optional parts as the years past by and depending on finances new additions to the car we installed but the car remained as is for last 11 years or so.

 

My 300ZX’s Big Accident 2021:

 

My 300ZX's Big Crash 2021 (Part 1) #shorts #300zx

 

My 300ZX's Big Crash 2021 (Part 1) #shorts #300zx

 

Rebuild Project Start Date:

November 2021 - ongoing

 

Rebuild Budget:

Insurance payout was $8k after the accident, but the budget has since blown out to an additional $2k with more finances required to complete the rebuild.

 

Rebuild Project Plans:

Obliviously the main goal of the rebuild is to get the car back to a drivable state and repair the damage, so the car will look like it did before the accident occured. I also feel this is a golden opportunity for me to continue finishing off my original build project that I never really finished back in late 2012.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS

After successfully tearing down my original pair of 1989 non-turbo front OEM brake calipers, I decided the best way to build on that experience was to dismantle a spare set of OEM aluminum rear brake calipers from a 300ZX. In theory, the rear calipers should require much the same disassembly process as the fronts, with the main difference being that each rear caliper only contains two hydraulic pistons rather than four.

One other notable difference, however, is the overall condition of these rear calipers. Unlike the fronts, these are in fairly poor shape, with heavy grime buildup and a significant amount of rusted hardware that I expected would make the teardown more challenging. Despite this, I was confident I could fully disassemble them and further expand my mechanical knowledge in the process.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMSKz9Hm/1_Before_Dismantling_(Rear_Brake_Calipers)_Rear.jpg

Step 1: Tearing Down the Left-Hand Rear Brake Caliper

As with the front calipers, the first step was to remove the hydraulic pistons. I planned to use compressed air to force the pistons out of their bores, just as I had done previously.

This is where I hit my first major roadblock. Both rear OEM brake hose fittings were completely seized in the back of the caliper. Despite using a correctly sized 10 mm flare nut wrench, neither fitting would budge. Things quickly got worse when the hex portion of the fitting began to deform under the wrench due to rust and soft metal.

Not wanting to risk further damage, I stopped and reconsidered my approach. I remembered seeing my Dad successfully free stubborn bolts using penetrating lubricant, so I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the fittings and surrounding threads and allowed it time to soak in.

https://i.postimg.cc/L4PLwRbG/2_First_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Caliper_End_(Close_Up).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/vHdfdkRm/2_Second_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_End_(Close_Up).jpg

Thankfully, this approach worked. Both brake hose fittings eventually broke free, allowing me to continue with the teardown.

https://i.postimg.cc/BZFHkszj/2_Removed_Brake_Hardline_Hose.jpg

Unfortunately, the fittings sustained noticeable damage during removal. While I originally hoped to refurbish the hardlines as part of a future restoration, replacing them outright will be far easier and safer.

https://i.postimg.cc/8kvM9DYP/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Wide).jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SQ9C3qvw/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Close_Up).jpg

With the hoses removed, I used compressed air to push both pistons outward as far as possible while the used brake pads were still installed. At this point, another issue surfaced: two brake pad slide pins were seized in the caliper body. After applying WD-40, I was able to remove one pin, but the second pin refused to move.

Even using a hammer to drive it out proved ineffective. After exhausting all options I could think of, I decided to leave it for now and seek advice from my Dad before risking damage to the aluminum caliper body.

Fortunately, the stuck slide pin did not prevent me from continuing. I removed the four caliper mounting bolts and separated the two caliper halves without issue.

https://i.postimg.cc/DyKLKHVB/3_Dismantling_Process_Separating_LH_Rear_Brake_Calipers_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Yqfg2Rkz/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8PBWk4Dy/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_2.jpg

I then removed the old brake pads.

https://i.postimg.cc/kXdKdzrK/3_Dismantling_Process_Finally_Separated_LH_Brake_Caliper.jpg

The final step for this caliper was removing the pistons completely, along with the dust boots and internal rubber O-ring seals seated inside each piston bore.

Once everything was laid out on the bench, the amount of grime and contamination was obvious. A thorough cleaning would be required before any refurbishment could begin.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qd87F7dD/4_Dismantling_Process_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Bf4D2S/4_Close_Up_of_LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qMXnBw0W/4_Close_Up_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg

Step 2: Tearing Down the Right-Hand Rear Brake Caliper

After dealing with the challenges on the left-hand caliper, I was better prepared for the right-hand side. As expected, both brake pad slide pins on this caliper were seized solid. While frustrating, I was still able to work around the issue and complete the teardown.

https://i.postimg.cc/CxcqkKRd/5_Dismantling_Process_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg

Just like the left-hand caliper, all components were heavily soiled and coated in grime.

https://i.postimg.cc/x1fmXmTB/4_Close_Up_of_RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/fRzdVdRX/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Rear_Half_Section.jpg

The front half of the caliper clearly shows the two rusted slide pins still stuck in place.

https://i.postimg.cc/Mp6BnBpn/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg

Step 3: Cleaning Process for Both Rear Brake Calipers

With both calipers fully disassembled, it was time to assess what could be reused or refurbished. All metal components were placed into my ultrasonic cleaner and soaked in an all-purpose cleaning solution for 20 minutes at 60 °C.

The results were far better than expected. Most of the built-up grime and residue was completely removed. After thoroughly blow-drying each component to eliminate moisture, I sorted the parts into groups and stored them safely for the next phase.

https://i.postimg.cc/XYsCdvrB/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8zZ6MC7r/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_2.jpg

The real work begins next. Both caliper bodies will be stripped back to bare aluminum before being repainted in a durable, high-gloss finish. More updates to follow.

After last month’s ground-breaking milestone, tearing down my first set of OEM front and rear brake calipers, I’ve now moved onto the next phase of the project. This month’s update focuses on completing the remaining strip-down process of the newly dismantled OEM rear calipers, tackling several stubborn components that needed every trace of surface rust removed before any paint or protective coating could be applied.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

COMPLETION OF THE DISASSEMBLY PROCESS - SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS

Continuing on from where I left off in last month’s blog updates, this month’s progress focuses on completing the cleaning and de-rusting stages for my spare set of OEM rear brake calipers. Once this stage was finished, the calipers were finally ready to move on to the next phase of the restoration process—stripping the original factory protective coating from the outer surfaces and returning everything back to bare metal. This will ultimately provide the best possible foundation for a durable, high-temperature, high-gloss paint finish later on.

Step 4: De-Rusting Process of Both Rear Brake Calipers

The deep-cleaning cycles that both rear brake calipers went through in last month’s update successfully removed the majority of the built-up dirt and grime that had accumulated across all components, including the caliper bodies themselves.

However, there was still a noticeable amount of surface rust present on several parts that needed to be addressed before any new coating could be applied. To tackle this, I submerged all of the affected brake caliper components into a container filled with EvapoRust solution, placed the container into my ultrasonic cleaning machine, and ran a 20-minute cycle at 60°C.

Once the cycle was complete, the container was removed from the ultrasonic cleaner and all components were taken out of the EvapoRust solution. Each piece was then thoroughly dried by hand, followed by a quick powered blow-dry using my BigBoi handheld electric blower to ensure no excess residue remained on any of the calipers or hardware.

The body assemblies of each half of both rear brake calipers came out looking significantly better than before. Most of the ugly orange caliper paint was now completely gone, and overall the calipers are now starting to resemble their original factory condition—albeit with a slightly faded appearance.

https://i.postimg.cc/65r0c3gw/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/2SCxKYNR/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_2.jpg

Next up were the hydraulic pistons, which were heavily rusted on the internal surfaces of all four units. Once again, the EvapoRust solution worked wonders and brought these parts back to life. I’ll still be going over each piston with a polishing wheel to remove the remaining scuff marks present on the external surfaces.

https://i.postimg.cc/Prsy1Z6Y/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/m2YwjDqw/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_2.jpg

A quick wire-wheel test was also carried out on the internal section of one of the hydraulic pistons to remove any remaining buildup. The result was even better than expected and confirms that a light polish will have these looking near new again.

Polished: (LH) Vs Not Polished (RH)

https://i.postimg.cc/rFXj5WhS/Caliper_Piston_Cleaning_Up_Comparison.jpg

Nearly all of the brake caliper hardware and fasteners came out of the de-rusting cycle completely free of surface rust and corrosion. However, the factory zinc coating was also stripped during the process, so I’ll be looking to replace as many of these fasteners as possible as part of the restoration. More on that later.

https://i.postimg.cc/8PQ4LWyL/Caliper_Fasteners_Set_Current_Condition.jpg

The two rear mounting brackets for each rear brake caliper also saw the complete removal of all surface rust that had formed on the exposed metal surfaces, as well as beneath the factory single-stage paint coating. A full strip-down and repaint will definitely be required before these brackets can be reattached to the restored brake calipers.

https://i.postimg.cc/jdHXc5m0/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Yq63R9ZB/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_2.jpg

Last but not least was the results of the cleaning process for all of the rubber seals and O-rings. Surprisingly, these came out of the cleaning cycle looking almost like brand-new parts. That being said, I’ll still be replacing everything with a complete set of brand-new seals and O-rings during reassembly phase to ensure long-term reliability.

https://i.postimg.cc/FsyZpRqC/Old_Caliper_Orings_Seals_Set.jpg

Unfortunately, that concludes the extent of the work I was able to complete on this project for the month. While I’m extremely happy with the results of the cleaning and de-rusting processes, there’s still plenty of work ahead before these rear brake calipers are fully restored and ready to go back on the car.

Another productive month in the garage, with another successful brake caliper teardown completed—this time tackling a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front calipers. Alongside that, I began polishing one of my bare aluminum OEM wheels, aiming for a full mirror finish. To top it all off, I also received a package from Japan containing the latest parts for the rebuild project, adding even more momentum to the build.

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY NEW SPARE SET OF LATER MODEL TWIN TURBO OEM IRON BRAKE CALIPERS

With the teardown of my used rear OEM brake calipers now complete, I’m starting this month’s update with the newly acquired set of later-model twin turbo iron front brake calipers that arrived earlier this month for the rebuild project.

The goal for this set is simple: once restored, they will replace the later-model TT front calipers currently on the car — the same ones I installed back in 2011. These “new” used calipers will go through the exact same teardown and restoration process as the rears featured in last month’s update.

Finding the Twin Turbo Front Brake Calipers on Yahoo Auctions

I came across these calipers listed on Yahoo Auctions, advertised as having been used on a Skyline R32. The seller wasn’t completely certain of their origin, but from the photos I immediately recognized them as the later-model 300ZX Twin Turbo front calipers (Series 4–6, 1995–2000).

https://i.postimg.cc/L8VH8MJC/1_TT_brake_calipers_yahoo_auctions_2.jpg

Cosmetically, they were in average-to-poor condition, with significant surface rust and grime. However, the important thing was that they were complete.

The key difference between these later-model calipers and the earlier versions is the material. The later units are made from iron rather than aluminum. While heavier, the iron construction offers improved resistance to heat-induced warping under hard braking — particularly beneficial during track use. This is why Nissan upgraded to iron calipers in the later production models.

https://i.postimg.cc/YCxpCwvQ/1_final_model_brochure_photos_of_brakes_(1999_2000).jpg

Once they arrived here in Australia, I was eager to begin the restoration process. Despite their condition, I was confident they could be rebuilt to a standard better than new.

https://i.postimg.cc/Dzjn1ddv/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/W4WT066z/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_2.jpg

Step 1: Hydraulic Piston Removal

As soon as the calipers arrived, I began by removing all hydraulic pistons using compressed air and old brake pads as spacers to prevent damage during extraction.

https://i.postimg.cc/gjRpF99h/2_Piston_Removal_Process_3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gc6m6hwY/2_Piston_Removed_1.jpg

The process went smoothly, and I was able to remove all eight pistons without major issues.

Step 2: Separating the Caliper Halves

Next, I applied penetrating lubricant to the four main fasteners on each caliper to help loosen the rusted bolts. After allowing it to soak briefly, I carefully removed all eight fasteners. Fortunately, none of them snapped — always a small victory when working with older hardware.

https://i.postimg.cc/CLG0cVHX/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/1R61zZTn/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_6.jpg

With the bolts removed, I separated the caliper halves and extracted the internal O-ring seals from each piston bore.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4BLcR1z/4_O_ring_Removal.jpg

At this stage, the calipers were fully dismantled. Years of grime, corrosion, and brake dust buildup were clearly visible. There’s no denying — they need serious attention — but this is exactly why I wanted to rebuild them properly.

https://i.postimg.cc/SxSBVYKG/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/q7YWkmx2/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xCzhqK6v/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_3.jpg

Step 3: Cleaning Process

Before moving any further, every component went into the ultrasonic cleaner. Each part was placed in containers and run through a full cleaning cycle.

The results were impressive. Years of accumulated dirt and grease were removed, revealing clean metal surfaces underneath. It’s always satisfying seeing neglected parts come back to life.

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Rw6gLT/6_Cleaning_Process_1.jpg

During inspection, I discovered a small hole in one of the original piston dust boots. This would have allowed moisture and debris into the bore — potentially leading to corrosion or piston seizure. Finding that damage alone justified the decision to completely dismantle these calipers.

https://i.postimg.cc/JzzFjwT5/6_Cleaning_Process_2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/5yWGz6Gz/6_Before_Derusting_Process.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/DwpMgCHK/6_hole_in_piston_dust_boot.jpg

Step 4: De-Rusting Process

With the grime removed, it was time to address the rust.

All affected metal components were submerged in my go-to rust removal solution and run through a heated 20-minute ultrasonic cycle.

https://i.postimg.cc/NjCz4NSf/7_After_Derusting_Process_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/R03bb7xN/7_After_Derusting_Process_2.jpg

The results were outstanding. The surface rust was effectively eliminated, and the transformation was dramatic. It’s incredible how much renewal proper rust treatment can provide.

https://i.postimg.cc/yNwrqD7c/7_After_Derusting_Process_3.jpg

Most of the corrosion on the hydraulic pistons was also removed. I’m still undecided whether to coat the internal surfaces of the pistons in a flat black finish or leave them natural — I’ll make that call during reassembly.

Conclusion

That concludes the teardown of this later-model twin turbo iron front caliper set. I’m extremely pleased with how smoothly the process went, and I’ve gained an even deeper understanding of the internal workings of these calipers.

Next up will be surface preparation of the caliper bodies. The old factory coating will need to be completely stripped back to bare metal before applying a fresh finish. That means it’s time to bring out the bench grinder and start prepping for paint.

Stay tuned for the next stage of the restoration.

POLISHING ONE OF MY OEM ALLOY WHEELS

Taking a short break from all of the recent brake system work, I decided to turn my attention to something a little more cosmetic — my set of bare aluminum OEM wheels. After sitting for the past four years, they were starting to look tired and dull, and it was clear they were long overdue for a proper polish to bring them back to life.

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a layer of oxidation had formed on the bare aluminum since the last time I polished this particular wheel. I was hopeful that a thorough polishing would remove it, but there was only one way to find out.

[i](Above) Back in 2007, I purchased a full set of OEM JDM factory wheels from another Z owner who had already stripped and polished the bare aluminum before selling them to me. Around that time, I learned that the USDM models were offered with factory chrome OEM wheels — a look I instantly fell in love with. Unfortunately, here in Australia, none of the OEM wheels available came in that factory chrome finish. So when a polished set came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate — it was the closest I could get to that chrome look, and I jumped on the opportunity.[/i]

(Below) A close-up of the oxidation that had formed on the surface of the bare aluminum over time.

https://i.postimg.cc/mkxrB7PN/1_Before_Polishing_2.jpg

After about an hour of polishing using an electric drill, a buffing cone, and some purple metal polish, the results were immediately noticeable. The dull, hazy finish was gone, replaced by a reflective, mirror-like shine that closely resembles chrome. I couldn’t have been happier with how the wheel turned out.

Ultimately, I’d love to have all of my OEM alloy wheels finished in a true mirror-like chrome one day. For now, though, the polished aluminum gives me a close enough look to achieve the style I’m going for — and I’m more than happy with it.

It was also a refreshing change of pace from the brake system work I’ve been focused on for the past few months — sometimes it’s nice to see quick, visual progress.

https://i.postimg.cc/wMKBgD15/2_After_Polishing.jpg

(Above) Although the bare aluminum now has a nice reflective, mirror-like shine, the oxidation hasn’t been completely removed. Even after several passes with the polish, I wasn’t able to eliminate any more of the remaining surface oxidation.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to polish the remaining three OEM wheels, but I’m planning to tackle those soon — ideally before reinstalling the refurbished brake calipers on the car.

There’s something incredibly satisfying about bringing old aluminum back to life, and this first wheel is a great reminder of why I’ve always loved the look of polished OEM wheels on this Z.

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL

This month I took delivery of two new brake-related parts from Japan. The first was a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front brake calipers, which I’ve already covered in detail above.

The second item, however, is the one I’m most excited about. It has the potential to significantly reduce future servicing time—particularly when bleeding the braking system—provided I can successfully retrofit it to my car. Based on the research I’ve pieced together so far, it should be possible in theory.

(Above) The package from Japan containing both brake components. As always, Jesse Streeter and his team did an excellent job ensuring everything arrived safely and undamaged.

https://i.postimg.cc/fbNJmRLC/2_Parts_Inside_Box_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/YSHhYC9x/2_Parts_Inside_Box_2.jpg

(Above) The contents of the package: a set of later-model iron TT brake calipers and a 1994+ ABS pump/actuator assembly.

If you haven’t already spotted it in the photos, the “mystery” item is a later-model 1994+ ABS pump/actuator. I purchased it as a complete unit, including all factory brake hardlines connecting the pump to the hydraulic system. Having the original hardlines intact is a huge advantage—it means I should be able to unbolt my original ABS pump and swap this unit in without needing to fabricate or modify any brake lines.

https://i.postimg.cc/DzT8LwZP/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/rpkKxwmn/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg

(Above) The later-model ABS pump complete with 2+2 base plate and all original hardlines. These lines feed into the hydraulic distribution box, which connects the pump to the rest of the braking system.

The factory part number stamped on the identification plate is 47600-50P00, along with a serial number and the manufacturer’s name, Nippon ABS, LTD.

https://i.postimg.cc/wBQ3VYyb/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_4.jpg

(Above) According to Nissan FAST, part number 47600-50P00 was fitted to both NA and TT Z32 models from September 1993 through to October 1998.

As exciting as this purchase is, there’s one obvious issue: surface rust. The unit appears to have been exposed to the elements for some time, and corrosion has formed on several external components.

That said, I’ve dealt with similar surface rust before and had good success restoring parts to a respectable condition. The main challenge will be figuring out how best to submerge the assembly in Evapo-Rust (or treat it in stages) to remove the corrosion thoroughly. After that, I’ll need to apply a suitable protective coating to prevent future rust from returning.

https://i.postimg.cc/bv9dTfDV/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_5.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/HL9j21cQ/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_3.jpg

(Above) While the rust looks significant at first glance, it appears to be surface-level only.

https://i.postimg.cc/vmtDzwxM/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_7.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/BvBtgfLy/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_6.jpg

(Above) A close-up of the five brake hardlines that connect the pump to the car’s main hydraulic distribution box (located beneath the rear center section of the boot). After careful inspection, I found no kinks or damage to any of the lines, which is reassuring.

Next, I inspected the electrical side of the unit, including the main wiring harness and the internal relay box mounted on the rear of the pump. Fortunately, there were no signs of corrosion in any of the connectors, and the internal relay box looks to be in near-new condition.

https://i.postimg.cc/85kcXXLF/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_8.jpg

(Above) Research suggests that the three main electrical connectors are identical in location and orientation to those on early-model ABS pumps.

https://i.postimg.cc/G23tggvv/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/26jy99nh/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_10.jpg

(Above) Inspecting the internal relay box located at the rear of the pump.

I know some people may question the decision to modify the braking system in this way. Before the ongoing brake-bleeding issues began, I likely wouldn’t have considered it either. However, with no clear resolution to the bleeding problem so far, replacing the ABS pump could potentially eliminate a hidden internal fault. And if I’m going to replace it anyway, it makes sense to consider upgrading to the later-model unit.

The biggest unknowns remain:

• Can the later-model ABS pump be successfully retrofitted into an early Z32?

• If installed, will it function correctly?

As far as I can tell, this hasn’t been attempted before—so I may be the first to try this modification on a 300ZX Z32. My approach is simple: if it works, fantastic. If it doesn’t, I can revert to the original pump and share the results with the community so others know whether this path is viable.

At this point, based on the information I’ve gathered, the potential benefits outweigh the risks. Worst-case scenario, I return to stock. Best-case scenario, I resolve the brake bleeding saga and gain a worthwhile upgrade in the process.