just a little advice please guys, got a misfire on cylinder one which I've confirmed is no spark.

I have 12v and earth from the coil pack connector.

I've continuity tested the wiring, pin 1 on the output side of the PTU to coil pack one connector all fine

checked pin 1 on the Ecu to pin 1 on the input side of the PTU and nothing so it looks like a broken wire, looking at the wiring diagrams I take it the wire is a constant run from Ecu to PTU and no connectors anywhere in between?

on another note it maybe time to look at replacing the engine bay loom sooner rather than later, looking online it looks like wiring specialities seem to be the only place listing them, but seen mixed reviews, are they the goto supplier?

The diagram shows that it is a continuous run between the ECU and PTU (no connector shown) for the runs. There is no corrosion on the ECU/PTU connector pins

(dark dull surface)?

You might also want to check that the ECU plug is properly seated, take it off and carefully plug back in. Whilst it's off check pin 1 for damage and the harness join You

could also run a test wire from ECU pin 1 (test clip onto to the harness wire) to the PTU pin 1 to see if that clears the continuity problem.

Have a word with Jim@PZ on his views on WS vs OEM harnesses (nine is OEM).  Both WS and OEM are only available in LHD form which can be fitted to a RHD car

with a small amount of extra harness by the firewall tucked away. Z1 also make their own LHD engine harness, again see if Jim has an opinion on them as he sources

lots of parts from Z1.

Edited April 26, 20214 yr by AndrewG

Hi, my harness is being replaced at the moment at PZ. Jimmer advises to go for the OEM LHD harness over the wiring specialities one, as the oem ones have stronger plugs and better construction over all. Bought mine from Z1. PM me if any queries at all.


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3 hours ago, AndrewG said:

The diagram shows that it is a continuous run between the ECU and PTU (no connector shown) for the runs. There is no corrosion on the ECU/PTU connector pins

(dark dull surface)?

You might also want to check that the ECU plug is properly seated, take it off and carefully plug back in. Whilst it's off check pin 1 for damage and the harness join You

could also run a test wire from ECU pin 1 (test clip onto to the harness wire) to the PTU pin 1 to see if that clears the continuity problem.

Have a word with Jim@PZ on his views on WS vs OEM harnesses (nine is OEM).  Both WS and OEM are only available in LHD form which can be fitted to a RHD car

with a small amount of extra harness by the firewall tucked away. Z1 also make their own LHD engine harness, again see if Jim has an opinion on them as he sources

lots of parts from Z1.

Thanks Andrew, PTU connectors all look fine, I have a series 2 unit and I spliced the plugs into my loom last year and dumped the adaptor harness, this gave me a point to test from, I simply tack soldered a wire to the joint and ran it to the cockpit to test continuity on the loom cable with a simple bleep test, but this showed an open circuit. The car was fine before I parked it up for winter, so can only guess the cold got to it and caused the break. 
 

WS are also doing RHD looms now, but seen mixed reviews, not seen any oem lhd looms but then I wasn’t looking.

10 minutes ago, naz27 said:

Hi, my harness is being replaced at the moment at PZ. Jimmer advises to go for the OEM LHD harness over the wiring specialities one, as the oem ones have stronger plugs and better construction over all. Bought mine from Z1. PM me if any queries at all.


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So I guess as I have later injectors I would need the later loom and swap the cas?

Yes later loom indeed - I went for the 95 loom. I also have late style injectors, series 2 PTU and original series 1 CAS.

You can keep your original CAS and splice wires in alternatively, but for peace of mind I went for a new series 2 CAS.


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Here’s the web link;


https://www.z1motorsports.com/wiring-harnesses/nissan/efi-wiring-harness-95-tt-manual-p-1551.html


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got the old girl firing on all 6, even found the aprox location of the break in the wire, which was across the front of the engine, however looking at the PTU wires they are all very brittle and oxidised, I may cut them all back and replace all 6, but I get the feeling they won't be much different no matter how far I cut them back. 

If you do decide to cut them back make sure the wires (harness side) are scraped back to clean copper. When I did mine I found

that the solder joint wouldn't take and left a dry joint.

Edited April 27, 20214 yr by AndrewG

the problem I had this morning was even trying to clean the wires back the copper was just snapping off, hopefully if I do go down the running replacement wires route I find something a little more solid to connect too.