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Hello everyone, I have searched the forums for a few days before taking the plunge and asking for help. 

1992 Non Turbo fresh JDM import. I have finally decided to import my dream car, the 300zx! 

She drives off the transporter with a few misfires and perhaps a missing cylinder (not literally thankfully) and i get her parked up on my drive. Do an oil change, OEM filter, OEM fuel filter too, 6 irridium spark plugs "version 7" from z1Motorsports; slap them in. Put 6 litres of V-power to get it to the MOT garage. Next morning she starts on a dime, all 6 cylinders singing and happy no misfires. 60 seconds later the revs start to go up and down without settling, i pull off to the garage, very hesitant, loss of power, the engine wants to stall but the accelerator just barely keeps it going sputtering and stuttering luckily it was just 5min up the road. 

During the diagnosis period the spark plugs performed worse and worse eventually it wouldnt start at all leaving a rich deposit on the plug that was also wet with fresh fuel on every cylinder. 

We put the original stock quad tip exhaust

New coolant temp sensor, A fresh set of 6 coil packs, tried 3 Different PTU's with clean terminals.

Had an electritian bring his scan tools and everything checks out, no engine codes except for 55( all clear) 

O2 sensors are working (disconecting them increased the fuel even more), theres fuel pressure, 

Dropped the tank and cleaned it( it wasnt even that dirty), flushed the fuel lines

Cleaned the MAF and terminals, tried starting it without the MAF plugged in, tried cleaning all the connectors. 

Tried to clean the TPS sensors, Tried to By-pass the knock sensor, Obviously checked all the Vacuums but yet to do a smoke test. 

Im gonig to test the Fuel pressure regulator too because the car ran allot better with an external gass tank and weaker pump, hopefully its the FPR sending too much fuel to every injector. 

the only other thing i can think of are the injectors, but what are the chances of all 6 getting stuck-open. 

Also as soon as we put new plugs in the car starts like a dream for a while. 

I would apreciate any troubleshooting at all, hope there is still some ZX veterans around here. Also im in West London. 

 

Featured Replies

A bit of background on the car - What is the mileage of the car - service history? Has it had cambelt service (properly installed) and idle ignition timing correct?

Clean air filters?

Re checking vacuum leaks when manifold pressure is below atmospheric - you will need to pressurize the system:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Other things re idle (also check the electrical connections to these valves):

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Idle_Control

re FPR there is also the Fuel damper which can leak fuel when faulty:

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2610744/Here-is-how-it-works.html

 

 

 

 

 

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
4 hours ago, AndrewG said:

A bit of background on the car - What is the mileage of the car - service history? Has it had cambelt service (properly installed) and idle ignition timing correct?

Clean air filters?

Re checking vacuum leaks when manifold pressure is below atmospheric - you will need to pressurize the system:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Other things re idle (also check the electrical connections to these valves):

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Idle_Control

re FPR there is also the Fuel damper which can leak fuel when faulty:

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2610744/Here-is-how-it-works.html

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Andrew! 

54k Miles, perhaps sat for a year or so in the sun since some areas of the door cards are bubling, most likely still on the factory cambelt. ive taken off and tested the fuel pressure regulator, the entire fuel rail and balance tube has no scratches on it whatso-ever, i should think the hoses have probably never been taken off. If it was any kind of timing issue i assume i wouldnt get even a minute of flawless running on new spark plugs, tomorrow im gonna look into and test the fuel damper and spray some Carbon cleaner into the idle air adjuster and air regulator, maybe disasemble it and clean it out.

  • Author
On 23/03/2021 at 15:16, AndrewG said:

A bit of background on the car - What is the mileage of the car - service history? Has it had cambelt service (properly installed) and idle ignition timing correct?

Clean air filters?

Re checking vacuum leaks when manifold pressure is below atmospheric - you will need to pressurize the system:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Other things re idle (also check the electrical connections to these valves):

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Idle_Control

re FPR there is also the Fuel damper which can leak fuel when faulty:

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2610744/Here-is-how-it-works.html

 

 

 

 

 

Ive done the air intake test, fixed a small air leak in one of the intake pipes near the carbon canister. at the time i had some spark plugs that were fouled and i just cleaned them up, i have sprayed some EGR cleaner into the Idle air controllers, I have checked and cleaned the PCV valves: working fine. syncronised the throttle boddies. Started the car; rough start + idle, misfire, lots of smoke out of the exhaust. held the revs at around 2000 and after 10 seconds everything cleared up and the car was running smoothly, no fumes, running on all 6 and i noticed the Fan was always on. switched it off, replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned up the terminals, also cleaned the old sensor but when i started the car again with the new sensor, the car was misfiring again, running incredibly rough and lots of rich smoke was coming out of the exhaust, i could smell the gasoline. switched it off, popped the original sensor back in, clean terminals. Same thing, feels like running on 4 cylinders. 

Waiting for the multimeter to arrive to do some more tests, perhaps the fan relay, or an issue with the wiring.  Still no codes apart from NR-55 

  • Author

also forgot to mention that once i got it running well and replaced the CTS for the first time i even put in brand new spark plugs NGK pfr6b-11

Just to check off things - Do you know if the ECU is stock (soldered or socketed/removable EPROM)? What is the Nissan part# printed on the ECU top lid?

Will be of the form of XXXXX-XXPXX (eg 23710-46P80).

What is the diagnostics software you are using the talk to the ECU?

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
12 minutes ago, AndrewG said:

Just to check off things - Do you know if the ECU is stock (soldered or socketed/removable EPROM)? What is the Nissan part# printed on the ECU top lid?

Will be of the form of XXXXX-XXPXX (eg 23710-46P80).

What is the diagnostics software you are using the talk to the ECU?

I dont know much about ECU's nor how they may differ from other 300zx's
The number is 23710 40913
The "mechanics" have had an electrician come in, told me all of the systems are working fine

but then i used the "short" method where you plug a spare wire into 2 pins under steering wheel. and then you coount the light flashes on the instrument panel

Ive also just started it and i swear i unpluged 3 coil packs and i couldnt notice any change in the way the engine was running, im so confused.

23710-40P13 is for a 1990/08 - 1992/08 NA Auto car. Which assuming yours is an Auto is the right one.

https://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&fig=226A&part=2371040P13&page=1

The Aux fan running on startup is normally an indication of an engine coolant temperature sensor fault (not withstanding a harness fault). It would

normally generate a code 13 which your ECU is not showing. However, I've also come across an accounts on TT.net which also gives the same symptoms as

you have described which was down to an ECU EPROM fault. I was asking about the EPROM inside the ECU (the four screws on the lid's corners to get inside)

to see if the ECU has been modified or damaged in Japan. Unlikely, but you never know.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/995323/running-rich-aux-fan-on-check-engine-light-on.html

The engine is running very rich. New plugs will run for a while before they foul up and stop firing. Unplugging the coil packs will do the same on those

fouled plugs.

For reference, this is a link to ECU diagnostics using the LED on the side of the ECU.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1105629/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-ECU-Diagnostics.html

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
33 minutes ago, AndrewG said:

23710-40P13 is for a 1990/08 - 1992/08 NA Auto car. Which assuming yours is an Auto is the right one.

https://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&fig=226A&part=2371040P13&page=1

The Aux fan running on startup is normally an indication of an engine coolant temperature sensor fault (not withstanding a harness fault). It would

normally generate a code 13 which your ECU is not showing. However, I've also come across an accounts on TT.net which also gives the same symptoms as

you have described which was down to an ECU EPROM fault. I was asking about the EPROM inside the ECU (the four screws on the lid's corners to get inside)

to see if the ECU has been modified or damaged in Japan. Unlikely, but you never know.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/995323/running-rich-aux-fan-on-check-engine-light-on.html

The engine is running very rich. New plugs will run for a while before they foul up and stop firing. Unplugging the coil packs will do the same on those

fouled plugs.

For reference, this is a link to ECU diagnostics using the LED on the side of the ECU.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1105629/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-ECU-Diagnostics.html

the trouble is, im not getting a "check engine light" or anything, ill see if i can reset the system, i had it running really well yesterday, before i started messing (swapping) the coolant temp sensors but the fan was still on. I just want it to at least hold a steady idle so i can diagnose more. Before i start ripping out the ECU i also want to make sure everything else is working for certain, like the o2 sensors, ohm the Temp sensors ect. Thanks for your insight AndrewG! 

  • Author

oh dayum, well since the ECU panel was off i thought ill ty turning the screw on the ECU, and it gave me code 12, and i shit you not when i jumped the connector under the steering wheel it gave me 55 like a week ago, but it was running quite allot better back then... should i bother testing or just replace it, or what kind of tests do you think i should do?> 

22 hours ago, AurisZ said:

oh dayum, well since the ECU panel was off i thought ill ty turning the screw on the ECU, and it gave me code 12, and i shit you not when i jumped the connector under the steering wheel it gave me 55 like a week ago, but it was running quite allot better back then... should i bother testing or just replace it, or what kind of tests do you think i should do?> 

If you are referring to the code 12, then this is the FSM diagnostics procedure:

EFEC 112.pdf

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
On 01/04/2021 at 16:57, AndrewG said:

If you are referring to the code 12, then this is the FSM diagnostics procedure:

EFEC 112.pdf 397.12 kB · 1 download

Thank you andrew, It was the MAF for the most part, now the car runs pretty good, went for a solid drive but my fan is always on; and is taking a long time to get up to temperature. Running a little rich but not as rich as it used to be with the wobbly MAF. 

I tested both of my Coolant temp sensors dipping it in 68F, 122F 176F both produced In-Spec resistances, the plug is getting a good constant 5vols, and the ground is found on the other pin. the relay is giving me 0.70 resistance like 3 other relays ive tested but im unable to test right now if it clicks. is there anything else i can test in the mean-time regarding the Engine fan being always on when the engine is running. Also i dont know if this is a new issue but tonight i noticed that whenever i flip my day-time running lights/turn the dash liights on or use low beams all of my warning lights turn on allong with 2 of my break lights (excluting 3rd center light) I hope i havent messed up a relay or something pulling a few out during my tests. 

  • Author
On 01/04/2021 at 08:09, vijay said:

where abouts are you?

 

Near Wilsden Green NW London Zone2

I have the Conzult diagnostics but haven't used it for years. You could pop up to mine as I'm in NW2 too, but probably can't do it before the weekend now (or maybe one late afternoon this week)

  • Author
29 minutes ago, vijay said:

I have the Conzult diagnostics but haven't used it for years. You could pop up to mine as I'm in NW2 too, but probably can't do it before the weekend now (or maybe one late afternoon this week)

Sounds good to me, seems like its walking distance, took the car for a ride last night, it runs great but the fan is confusing me now haha. ill Direct message you my number and feel free to give me a day/time, im on furlough so literally any time is good for me and im in no rush. 

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