The arm of the HICAS is impacting the edge of the rear rims (18”) when operating. The car has been in storage for some time and during that time had adjustable coil overs fitted. Does anyone have any advice on how this can be solved a) increase the ride height, b) fit wheel spacers, c) change rims (want to avoid that one).

What width and offset are those rims?

265/35 ZR 18 (93Y) N4 - but no issues before coil overs fitted

That’s a tyre size you need to know the wheel size including the offset. 
Either of the first two options could work with the spacer more likely. 

Offset I need to measure

Should be printed on the rear face of the wheel, usually on the spoke. 
Also worth thinking about your geometry. 
My HICAS is long gone and the kit I have reduces this issue. 

15 hours ago, jgphenry said:

no issues before coil overs fitted

Is the N/S wheel doing the same?

Yes identical scoring (haven't checked offset markings on inside of rim because of the rain !

Between showers got the wheels of - marking on inner rim 10Jx18J H2 ET 45 which I assume is +45mm offset. As I am having alot of trouble with ride height I increased coil overs 14mm all round. Did not solve HICAS hitting the rim but noise has changed a little !

You've a 265 wide tyre on a 10J rim, no problem there, so a 10mm spacer will make it +35 and give flush fitment and the clearance you seek.

A bit more aggressive 15mm spacer is possible if your arches are rolled and with a slightly stretched tyre.

Not sure why it is fouling though, is ride height ridiculously low ?

You've a 265 wide tyre on a 10J rim, no problem there, so a 10mm spacer will make it +35 and give flush fitment and the clearance you seek.
A bit more aggressive 15mm spacer is possible if your arches are rolled and with a slightly stretched tyre.
Not sure why it is fouling though, is ride height ridiculously low ?

I second this; when I bought my new wheels during lockdown, I went off the advice of the club members and ET35 worked out to be a beautifully flush fit.


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Yes the car has an altitude issue - has an one ground the bulbous end of the hicas arm

Did you fit the spacers front and back

Did you fit the spacers front and back

Hi, no I just bought ET35 offset rear wheels and ET25 fronts with no spacers, both sets 18” wheels. But as someone earlier mentioned, you can just plonk on some 10mm hubcentric spacers on the rears, and that should sort your problem out, much cheaper than buying a new set of wheels. I’ve attached some photos so you can see the fitment.


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5 minutes ago, naz27 said:

Hi, no I just bought ET35 offset rear wheels and ET25 fronts with no spacers, both sets 18” wheels. But as someone earlier mentioned, you can just plonk on some 10mm hubcentric spacers on the rears, and that should sort your problem out, much cheaper than buying a new set of wheels. I’ve attached some photos so you can see the fitment.


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Naz, totally off topic but I can't PM you, cleaning out my garage and found 4 new connectors with wiring I bought from CZP years ago and lost in said garage lol, do you want them?

Naz, totally off topic but I can't PM you, cleaning out my garage and found 4 new connectors with wiring I bought from CZP years ago and lost in said garage lol, do you want them?

I’ll try Pm you now - should work hopefully!


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Thanks appreciate help

10mm spacers are a problem.
 

As slip ons. They’re too thick for the stock wheel studs, replacement extended rear wheel studs (which are different to the front) are a pain to find. 

 

No one makes proper hubcentric with the studs in the spacer in 10mm, in fact quite a few companies don’t make 15s. 
 

If the wheel only started fouling the arms after lowering the car then it’s almost certainly a geometry issue. Everything changes when you lower a car and the more you lower it the more thus becomes problematic. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car is now toe out at the rear. 

10mm spacers are a problem.
 
As slip ons. They’re too thick for the stock wheel studs, replacement extended rear wheel studs (which are different to the front) are a pain to find. 
 
No one makes proper hubcentric with the studs in the spacer in 10mm, in fact quite a few companies don’t make 15s. 
 
If the wheel only started fouling the arms after lowering the car then it’s almost certainly a geometry issue. Everything changes when you lower a car and the more you lower it the more thus becomes problematic. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car is now toe out at the rear. 

Ah yeah you’re right about the spacers. My car when it had the old veilsides fitted, had a set of driftworks hubcentric 15mm spacers on the front, which had studs on the spacer itself, so solved that issue. Just checked the driftworks website and turns out they don’t do 10mm hubcentric ones, only slip on ones which you want to avoid at all costs.

But to be honest, you’re probably right in the issue being solely to do with geometry, after lowering the car, so probs best the OP checks geometry first.

Update - imported FIC Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, Pair 10mm 5x114.3 12x1.25mm, Part Number: WP5110-66N  from Concept Z Performance and thay would appear to have solved the problem. Many thanks again for the advice 

39 minutes ago, jgphenry said:

Update - imported FIC Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, Pair 10mm 5x114.3 12x1.25mm, Part Number: WP5110-66N  from Concept Z Performance and thay would appear to have solved the problem. Many thanks again for the advice

I must admit I've not come across 10mm hub centric spacers of the type you have bought. Learn something new every day.

Great to hear you’ve solved the issue [emoji1417], and also good to know CZP offer 10mm versions.


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