Is this possible without removing the bumper, or is it just easier to remove the front bumper and get access? 

You don't need remove the bumper, you've to go inside the arch liner for one bolt or nut, inside the corner lens for another, 2 more inside near the air filter, it's doable.

My ZX has the strosek style front bumper, so may not be possible to get in from the corner lense, will have a go!

For reference:

Front bumper bar removal.pdf

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan300zx-z32-headlight-removal.html

Edited April 20, 20205 yr by AndrewG

Thanks, will give it a go:)

Just a couple of things to add. Take great care when removing (and refitting) the headlights with the bumper in place to avoid scratching

the paint work on the bumper from the two front fixing studs (as shown below). Masking tape layered up on bumper upper edge can save

many tears!

Also slot the inboard rear fixing bolts on each headlight (with a hacksaw). It makes life *a lot" easier to refit those bolts the job next

time (you still need to take out the bolts out the first time to cut a slots in them though).

.

Edited April 21, 20205 yr by AndrewG

They are a bit nasty those front two studs, you do have to be careful, I put a folded towel there, one of the wife’s best white ones as well ?.

Edited April 23, 20205 yr by phutumsch
spelling mistake

On ‎21‎/‎04‎/‎2020 at 14:52, AndrewG said:

Just a couple of things to add. Take great care when removing (and refitting) the headlights with the bumper in place to avoid scratching

the paint work on the bumper from the two front fixing studs (as shown below). Masking tape layered up on bumper upper edge can save

many tears!

Also slot the inboard rear fixing bolts on each headlight (with a hacksaw). It makes life *a lot" easier to refit those bolts the job next

time (you still need to take out the bolts out the first time to cut a slots in them though).

.

Hi, above you mention that its a good idea to slot the rear fixing bolts, is that because the heads can shear easily as they are?

7 minutes ago, E8VEN said:

Hi, above you mention that its a good idea to slot the rear fixing bolts, is that because the heads can shear easily as they are?

The reason is that the position of the heads of those two bolts (with all the gubbins that is near to them) makes it very difficult to get to

them with socket and then undo  (as you will find out). Slotting makes it much easier to secure them back in position by positionng

them underside and then winding them back up from the top with a screwdriver.

Thanks:), now I understand what you mean, I had a look with a torchlight and can see the rear 2 bolts, (one on each side), which need to be slotted, so effectively you could loosen these bolt from the topside if needed in future.

13 hours ago, E8VEN said:

so effectively you could loosen these bolt from the topside if needed in future.

It is how Andrew said, you get a small handed person to offer the bolt in the loaded with grease hole from underneath (not easy), with you poised with your screwdriver, as soon as you see it you'll need to wind the 'wrong way' and up it should come.

Also, put the bolt in from above with no headlight, or tap to clean out the thread, to just make sure the bolt moves in the hole real nice.

You could I suppose loosen in the future but after years in situ they may not move with this screwdriver method, iirc I nipped them just a touch further with a 1/4 ratchet.