I started cleaning my headlights today and want to be as thorough as possible. I think I can get a much better finish if I could separate the glass from the housing.

Has anyone done this and if so what did you use as a gasket when refitting the glass as I can’t find new gaskets?

 

Chris.

You don't need to split the headlight. This is the method I used:

http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0

You can also clean the rear of the projector lens using the same technique.

Thanks Andrew.

3 hours ago, Chris300 said:

Has anyone done this and if so what did you use as a gasket when refitting the glass as I can’t find new gaskets?

The glass is attached to the light plastic carcass with some grey sealant, you could warm it up and it'll ease away, I say ease away you may have to pull quite hard or tease but once it starts to come away it will 'rip off', the glass is very strong and thick, if you soften the sealant enough it will yield. It'll come away and be like a stringy grey cheese as you lift off, putting back you may need to add some silicone in an odd place or two but I don't foresee a problem in re assembling/sealing.

I put mine on a baking tray in the oven at around 60 degrees for 10 mins. The glass came away fairly easily, I don’t have any pics other than when they were finished! [emoji2359]

3 hours ago, AndrewG said:

You don't need to split the headlight. This is the method I used:

http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0

Looking at that and diagram 3 in particular, it shows the headlight aim adjuster (red circle) which enables the high beam bulb metal bracket screws (blue circles) to come into view and consequently you're then able to remove, in my experience the plastic beam adjuster cogs are fubared and do not adjust at all.

If this is the case you must take the headlights off the car and give them a complete overall on the bench over a winter for instance, access is certainly an issue on the car.,  

3 hours ago, AndrewG said:

You don't need to split the headlight. This is the method I used:

http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0

You can also clean the rear of the projector lens using the same technique.

And another thing...…...where the hell does a bloke get a tampon from ?.

And what if it gets too wet after you've stuck it into the back hole ?.

Edited November 12, 20196 yr by phutumsch

Brilliant, thanks for the help guys.

Joely, did you use silicon sealer to reseal the lights?

Brilliant, thanks for the help guys.

Joely, did you use silicon sealer to reseal the lights?

No, I was concerned that it would prevent access again in the future. Before refitting the glass I reheated the base and tidied up all the grey gloop into a bead in the join, I used any extra gloop required from a spare headlight.

 

When rebuilding, stick the 2 halves back into the oven for the same duration and the hot glass will push into the softened gloop with ease before pushing the metal clips on. Use oven gloves especially on the glass.

 

In hindsight, next time I may use the same roof and gutter sealant that I used to install my rear light clusters.

45 minutes ago, Joely P said:

In hindsight, next time I may use the same roof and gutter sealant that I used to install my rear light clusters.

Thanks. I’ll try this as it worked well on the rears and sounds like the same sort of product you’re finding sealing the lights on the front.

1 hour ago, Joely P said:

In hindsight, next time I may use the same roof and gutter sealant that I used to install my rear light clusters.

Except that the gutter sealant is black (vs OEM grey) and will almost certainly show up through the glass.

This might do the same job though:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-lead-sheet-sealant-grey-310ml/21594

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by AndrewG

Here is a full write-up for you Chris which includes repairing the headlight aiming gears.

H-L_Disassembly.pdf

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by AndrewG

Wow, what a find! Thanks Andrew.?

55 minutes ago, AndrewG said:

Except that the gutter sealant is black (vs OEM grey) and will almost certainly show up through the glass.

Black is more forgiving in my experience G-Man, once the charcoal insert is back in position, all the side pieces and the rubber surround no sealer is visible unless the assembler has been incredibly sloppy.

Anyhow, 90% if not more of the grey sealant will still be in position, it will only be an odd inch or two where you'll need to add extra if at all, a little tip - when you have first removed the glass attend to the grey sealant now because it should be still warm and at it's most pliable, there will be more in areas than others so pull it about and complete the 360 bead best you can.

I've actually used the grey lead sealer on erm lead on my property and expect it will work fine but either/or imo.

The four clips that hold the glass onto the carcass work very well and tight but only start to go on once the warm glass is compressed into the sealant.

 

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by phutumsch

Worth a read....

 

1 hour ago, redwine300 said:

Worth a read....

 

Another amazing post. Thanks mate!