Evening guys. I’ve got a squeal on the belts, even tight, probably worn out or oil contamination. Where’s the best place to source? I’ve got an underdrive bottom pulley but standard pulleys on the others.

x2 and what lengths for the unorthodox underdrive pulley?

Maybe no one knows...

Maybe no one knows...

 

Look on the belt you have. the numbers relate to the size.

The belts I have are on the car and are for the stock pulley also on the car.

The unorthodox pulley is in the parts mountain with no other belts and it's 120K time.

If anyone out there also has an unorthodox pulley on a TT I would appreciate their numbers

Look on the belt you have. the numbers relate to the size.

 

Cheers Pete although I recon they’re too long.

Cheers Pete although I recon they’re too long.

 

Underdrive crank pulleys are prone to squealing in my experience. Mine does on start up when the alternator is under load. It soon goes away tho so I just ignore it.:thumbup1:

My blue stuff pads squeal even louder.!! Once again I just ignore it.:thumbup:

 

But Im a happy go lucky style of owner so I can happlily live with all my cars imperfections.

For Unorthodox UD pulley:

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1075969/Unorthodox-Pulley-Belt-Sizes.html

Underdrive crank pulleys are prone to squealing in my experience. Mine does on start up when the alternator is under load. It soon goes away tho so I just ignore it.:thumbup1:

My blue stuff pads squeal even louder.!! Once again I just ignore it.:thumbup:

 

But Im a happy go lucky style of owner so I can happlily live with all my cars imperfections.

 

Yeah that’s how it is now. It will even slip on full throttle sometimes. It didn’t use to, or at least it was very infrequently, since a PS fluid leak though it’s every damn time I turn it on. The alternator belt is near the end of adjustment.

Yeah that’s how it is now. It will even slip on full throttle sometimes. It didn’t use to, or at least it was very infrequently, since a PS fluid leak though it’s every damn time I turn it on. The alternator belt is near the end of adjustment.

 

Try removing the belts and cleaning them 101% with panel wipe/ brake cleaner.

You could also rough up the pulley grooves a little with some 180 grit wet n dry.

IMHO the pulleys are just too smooth inside the grooves so the belt struggles to grip properly.

Edited July 14, 20187 yr by Slick Pete.
spelling

Certainly worth a go isn’t it.

Had a quick inspection today. No jack atm so didn’t have a proper look but the Fan/Alternator belt is near on maximum adjustment and is this belt.

The Power Steering belt has no markings on it, so I assume it’s old... swear I changed it in my ownership... it’s visibly shinny on the contacting surface though which would suggest to me it’s been slipping. The other is matt.

Bit of independent research revealed;

The belt I can read is a 4PK1010

First number is the number of ribs, in this example 4.

Then the Type of belt, PK.

Then the final numbers are length in MM, 1010 in this case.

So effectively you can simply count the ribs, take the length and buy generic belt to suit. Brilliant.

Edited July 15, 20187 yr by Stephen

Not a biggy, but the belt writing been the wrong way around makes me cringe, when the mech fitted it he clearly was not bothered about it, of course I get that it makes not difference operation wise but still it`s kind of there just looking wrong .....argh I will shut up !

 

Jeff

 

PS Forgot to mention, most alloy pulley tdc timing mark is not accurate, and many do not even have any markings, another bug bear of mine when they came in the workshop for a cambelt.

Not a biggy, but the belt writing been the wrong way around makes me cringe, when the mech fitted it he clearly was not bothered about it, of course I get that it makes not difference operation wise but still it`s kind of there just looking wrong .....argh I will shut up !

 

Jeff

 

PS Forgot to mention, most alloy pulley tdc timing mark is not accurate, and many do not even have any markings, another bug bear of mine when they came in the workshop for a cambelt.

 

I re fitted that belt when I was putting the engine in, in situe. Your right I didn’t care to even think if the text was the right way round. :lol:

The pulley. Oh that was a pain. It was on my original engine when I brought the car. When I did the cam belt it was quite obvious compared to the stock pulley the doner had on the marks didn’t align. Based on this discovery I tried to use the stock one but the belts didn’t fit, too short. Being in a hurry and not knowing what I do now I chose to reuse the alloy pulley. What I did though was to mathematically work out the mark and remark the alloy pulley. Checked it mechanically and 0BTDC was observed at TDC. Yes replacing the belts was probably faster but I wasn’t in the position to just grab the belts.

i re fitted that belt when i was putting the engine in, in situe. Your right i didn’t care to even think if the text was the right way round. :lol:

 

whoops !! :blush:

whoops !! :blush:

 

I wouldn’t worry about, mechanics is a hobby. If I was on the customers time I’d be anal like you but that level of fuss is not relevant to a non show car.

All done. I used

4PK870 and 4PK1000.

Snug but all good with the undersized pulley.

 

 

 

#note those sizes were particular for my pulley set up and would be too small for a stock car.

Edited August 4, 20187 yr by Stephen

Had a good chat with Mike at Unorthodox his original part numbers were unknown over here but turns out he was giving imperial sizes metric sizes below as recommended by Unorthodox for just their underdrive pulley with everyrhing else stock

 

Alternator 4PK990 (actual length in mm's from is 990.6mm)

 

Power Steering 4PK927 (actual length in mm's from UR is 927.1mm)

 

Air Con 4PK889 (actual length from UR is 889mm)

 

Gates are around £10 each and readily available