Well I have lost number 3 cylinder....... Pulled coil connector and no change on 3 only......

I am going to test the coil pack and injector in a while.....

Out with the multimeter again........

Bloody typical, just reinsured her again..........

Tested the injector and it is 12.5 ohms..... so within spec.

Tested coil pack and got 0.8 ohms

Removed spark plug and looked like this.....[ATTACH=CONFIG]113044[/ATTACH]

I pulled another coil pack and plug and found very black sooty plug.....

I swapped plugs and coil pack and the problem has moved to the other cylinder.....

Going to see if I have another set of coil packs and order a new set of plugs.....

 

Where can I get some NGK PFR6B-11C Plugs in the UK?...... nobody over here seems to have any..... or do I go to copper or iridium??

 

Running very rich and very sooty...... any ideas on what to try first to adjust the air/fuel mix?...... MAF failing?

O2 sensors need replacing?..... where to get quality replacements Bosch / NGK in the UK?

Cheers

Edited June 21, 20187 yr by veilside01702

Hi Russ,

I had a very similar issue a little while back..

I dismantled and cleaned just about everything, but to no avail.

You may not have the same cause, but mine turned out to be a faulty plug.

 

You say that the problem cylinder moved when you changed the plugs, it could be by chance that you have two faulty ones.

Solved my issue with a brand new set of re gapped plugs and hey presto, problem solved.

 

ps, have you checked the gapping on the existing plugs? may just have worn out of spec'

Edited June 23, 20187 yr by redwine300

I had the same problem over the winter, we put it down to cold fouling, new plug and 500 miles later and all seems well. My local motor factor got the new plug, not in stock but got it next day for £9 each.

Well its the plug died.... dropped in new plug and she is back on 6 cylinders....

 

But have found that when i removed the balance pipe it stank of petrol and all 6 plugs are covered in black soot.....

 

I am swapping out the o2 sensors for 2 new Bosch ones if I can get them out and ordered a new genuine nissan MAF from Z1 as they are at $248 at the moment......

 

Hopefully she will be running again very soon.........

Balancer bar smelling of petrol is a classic for the fuel damper diaphragm to be leaking fuel into the balancer bar, pull off the small rubber pipe and see if it is wet or smells of fuel...if it does change it, it will only get worse and causes hot start flooding issue.

 

Jeff

 

Balancer bar smelling of petrol is a classic for the fuel damper diaphragm to be leaking fuel into the balancer bar, pull off the small rubber pipe and see if it is wet or smells of fuel...if it does change it, it will only get worse and causes hot start flooding issue.

 

Jeff

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]113162[/ATTACH]

Thanks Jeff going to have a look now as changing drop links at the minute.... I will look and see if I still have a spare one in my boxes of spare parts....

Hi Jeff, I checked the fuel damper and it seemed ok, but I tested the vacuum connection with a piece of vacuum hose and could taste fuel.....

I swapped it with a spare I had just to make sure....

I couldn't move the O/S O2 sensor with the lambda socket I have as it tried to slip once so stopped trying before it rounded off...

Not tight enough and opens up due to the wide slot in it....

I have sprayed WD40 on it and will give that a day or so to soak in..... is it best to cut off the wires to the old sensor and use a long 22mm impact socket....?

I do have a Makita impact driver, but was trying to loosen it by hand rather than round anything off or snap anything off......

 

I have replaced the 18 month old drop links that have completely perished boots on them with some nice new OEM ones.....

Replaced all 6 PFR6B-11C spark plugs with new ones as the old ones were really sooted up...

I have also found big engine oil and transmission fluid leaks, so need to clean it all off and find where it is coming from...

Seems worse on N/S above the turbo somewhere..... I am guessing variable timing solenoid on N/S leaking through the back...... but going to clean and investigate first....

 

I have ordered a brand new OEM MAF from Z1, so want to do the o2 sensors while I wait for it to arrive...

I have also ordered a pair of 360 degree turbo rebuild kits to rebuild my spare set of turbos, to go with the upgraded actuators I bought in the US 2 years ago but never fitted...

 

Now all I need is to acquire and change the N/S/R ABS sensor as it keeps throwing a code when I go further than around town..... plus ABS keeps cutting in at too lower speeds and when I am just about to stop fully....

Hi Jeff, I checked the fuel damper and it seemed ok, but I tested the vacuum connection with a piece of vacuum hose and could taste fuel.....

I swapped it with a spare I had just to make sure....

 

 

I couldn't move the O/S O2 sensor with the lambda socket I have as it tried to slip once so stopped trying before it rounded off...

Not tight enough and opens up due to the wide slot in it....

 

 

Now all I need is to acquire and change the N/S/R ABS sensor as it keeps throwing a code when I go further than around town..... plus ABS keeps cutting in at too lower speeds and when I am just about to stop fully....

 

Ok I should of been more clear on the fuel damper, if there is fuel smell in the vacuum line that us exactly the issue that can cause flooding as it gets worse, so you have cured that by changing it.

 

The 02 sensors are a royal pain, as far as changing them out, we found in the workshop the easiest way was to take a long chisel or prybar and basically break the porcelin top off with the cable, this leaves you able to use a socket directly on it with some wobble bars. But even with slow turning and lots of WD40 the threads can just pull out of the boss on the elbow, not a major problem as the you can remove and replace, see pic below.

 

 

The rear abs sensors come in pairs only as they use a common loom / connector, they can be difficult to change as they seize in and the access is difficult, did a small tech thread about this some time back see below.

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171999-Rear-ABS-sensor-tech&highlight=rear+abs

 

 

 

Good luck

Hey Russ, changed both of my o2 sensors a little while back.

I think the key to my success was to soak the threads every night for a week prior to attempting to remove them.

I took a length of kunifer brake pipe and dribbled a little Plus Gas into the small recess around the threads, worked a treat.

Patience is the key.

Thanks Jeff, I shall try that when I pick up a deep 22mm impact and will follow your guide with the rear ABS sensors..... Your a star....

 

Hey Russ, changed both of my o2 sensors a little while back.

I think the key to my success was to soak the threads every night for a week prior to attempting to remove them.

I took a length of kunifer brake pipe and dribbled a little Plus Gas into the small recess around the threads, worked a treat.

Patience is the key.

Cheers for that Redwine300, currently given up trying to loosen until they are soaked for at least a few days then..... hopefully the MAF will be here by then.... and I can see how differently she drives...

I have a can of WD40 rust release penetrant spray just for this job now.... lol

Time to go and soak it.......

 

Cheers guys.....

WD will hopefully work for you but for this type of job, Plusgas is far superior as it is much thinner so can penetrate deeper. Always worth having a tin in your arsenal!

WD will hopefully work for you but for this type of job, Plusgas is far superior as it is much thinner so can penetrate deeper. Always worth having a tin in your arsenal!

Cheers Joel, thought I would try the new WD40 product as it has worked well at my work so far..... But I know what you mean about plusgas being great, especially when you own an older car.... lol

Cheers Joel, thought I would try the new WD40 product as it has worked well at my work so far..... But I know what you mean about plusgas being great, especially when you own an older car.... lol

 

There’s nothing new about any of the WD formula on the shelves, except maybe the fancy “straw selector” or the fact it’s available in a non aerosol format! Should do the job fine though, just give it a few days.

 

What tool are you using, the split socket with the drive in the top or the split socket with the drive at the side?

By the way, if you have a problem with beavers in your garden eating the trees, spray WD40 around the base of the trunk and your problem is solved!

 

This advise is actually part of the WD40 marketing for its application uses!

By the way, if you have a problem with beavers in your garden eating the trees, spray WD40 around the base of the trunk and your problem is solved!

 

This advise is actually part of the WD40 marketing for its application uses!

 

I don't have any issues with a bit of beaver chewing on my trunk....... rofl