Hi all, 1990 UK TT here.

 

I'm aware these beasts have their headlight gremlins, but I think this may be a unique case. I'm borderline just rewiring all the lights myself and having manual switches cut into the dash. The headlights have never worked right since I got the car, and I've cleaned connections up by the headlights themselves.

 

So this is what happens when I change the lights settings (might need to click 'download image' after clicking the link to make it appear right):

 

 

Are the fuses in the engine bay labeled as LH = LH of engine bay, or LH = nearside/passenger side? Also the fog light relay has been removed.

 

The RH headlight fuse looks fine, although I don't understand the wiring splits. The LH side has been re-routed to use a (rusty) 30A fuse in a separate relay which was next to the air filter, instead of the 15A fuse normally. The relay is ALSO connected to the green wire on the normal cooling fan (i have a custom one as well). I'm unsure if this is either an extra power feed to the lights, or a power feed to the fan so it comes on when the lights are turned on. The relay then connects to a ground, and two wires go elsewhere which has been cut (looks like a feed and a return). There is also no feed to the day time running/corner light, so I'm assuming this cut connection is for that? But it's been very clearly snipped, with no terminals present to make the connection

 

Circuit diagram:

 

My question is, do we think these connections should be joined, and if so, will it fulfill the conditions required for the other lights to work on the drivers side? I.e. for the power feed to the drivers side headlights to be true, does it need the daytime running light power feed to also be true?

 

Thanks!

 

Relay:

 

 

Wire from relay going into the green wire of the fan:

 

Relay with the cut wire I think should go to the daytime running/corner light:

 

Connections coming from the indicator and daytime running light, one going to a plastic box, one unconnected:

 

Fusebox:

 

 

Are the fuses in the engine bay labeled as LH = LH of engine bay, or LH = nearside/passenger side? Also the fog light relay has been removed.

 

 

To get started, LH is nearside/passenger side. You can see L and R markings stamped on the chassis crossmember near the radiator end tanks.

 

The fog light relay (for UK spec rear fogs) is present:

 

 

Did the car have aftermarket HID's fitted?

Ah okay I can see what you mean about the fog, and the chassis markings. There is a relay labelled as "fog lamp" where the space is too though.

 

No HIDs, standard bulbs, which i've replaced all of

The car has a custom cooling fan by the main radiator, and the air con removed. I'm assuming this fan in place was for the A/C radiator.

 

The button on the light switch knob, is that for the front day time running(DTRL)/corner lights by the indicators?

 

It doesn't have any effect for me. But I thiiiink it's possible, with a working relay and connection made, that button will turn on the RHS (drivers) DTRL and the A/C cooling fan? As to why it's linked up to the LHS fuse, and the LHS DTRL works I'm not yet sure

The button on the light switch knob, is that for the front day time running(DTRL)/corner lights by the indicators?

 

If you mean this button, then it is for the headlight washer:

 

 

This is the full ECCS (engine management ECU) circuit diagram which shows the original electric radiator fan motor and relays

(the fan is two speed). This fan is controlled by the ECCS measuring vehicle speed, engine temperature and A/C on/off state.

 

http://www.ttxtz.com/images/ECCS_colored_m.gif

 

You can see in your photo that the red wire spliced into the green wire on the fan plug is taking the ECCS signal switching on the fan to

some other circuit (the relay in your first picture).

Ah, logo is very faded on mine. They've been removed anyway. Hoho.

 

That diagram is excellent thanks for that.

 

So it looks like the relay I have is sending the signal to turn on the fan?

So it looks like the relay I have is sending the signal to turn on the fan?

 

Quite possibly. Out of curiosity, is the car's original mechanical fan still in place?

There are two fans.

 

The one the relay is connected to:

 

 

And the custom fan, with a 12V supply from the ignition:

 

 

NEW interesting development. Tidying up the absolute fallout of wiring under the dashboard (3rd party alarm, immobiliser, turbo timer, all un-colour coded and tangled)

 

There is one variable resister knob the driver can reach, with a red wire coming out of it, which actually feeds the cluster pod for the lights. It's the thick red wire connecting to the thin green/brown wire with the blue connector as shown below. The thin green/brown wire continues on after this. There is no other wire fed from the variable resister, but I have many many broken and taped connections around that area of the resister knob I'm trying to sort out.

 

 

The thin black wire has been cut, and a thick brown wire connected, which connects to an earth. Old thin black wire still visible but not connected.

 

I then followed the uppermost blue thick wire. The thin had been cut, with the old thin one still there but unconnected. This thick blue wire fed into the drivers side wing, into another relay, which was corroded to ****. The light blue wire can be seen.

 

 

 

 

The brown wire coming from the relay feeds back under the dashboard, but does not go anywhere. Could this be the wire that's meant to go to the variable resistor? Which I still don't know what it does.

 

 

Going to find a diagram for the cluster wiring now..

There are two fans.

 

And the custom fan, with a 12V supply from the ignition:

 

 

 

Whatever else you do, my advice would be to return the car's engine cooling to the original factory viscous fan setup. Z32 engines run

hot and electric fans don't provide the air flow needed to do the job reliably. It's not worth the risk.

 

Edited June 21, 20187 yr by AndrewG

Whatever else you do, my advice would be to return the car's engine cooling to the original factory viscous fan setup. Z32 engines run

hot and electric fans don't provide the air flow needed to do the job reliably. It's not worth the risk.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]113046[/ATTACH]

 

Yup - seconded.....

 

….Nissan got a lot right, straight from the box, on these cars. In fact, they were over-engineered in many areas:wink:

What does the original fan run off? Mechanically driven by the engine? There's an unorthodox racing crank pulley on it, unsure if this means I can't use the original set up? I'll do some searching

 

After many nights of cutting and reconnecting the millions of worn and corroded connections in the engine bay and drivers footwell (3rd party alarm, immobiliser, turbo timer, various accessory wires..), searching for hours on where wires in the non-standard relays mentioned went, I then checked the dim damp control unit and found everything there equally corroded.

 

The thick white wire which links to the LHS headlight relay wasn't even making contact.

 

As for why the LHS works fine and the RHS doesn't work, we'll see how it goes when I get the rest tidied up and connect the battery back up again..

What does the original fan run off? Mechanically driven by the engine? There's an unorthodox racing crank pulley on it, unsure if this means I can't use the original set up?

 

The viscous coupling which drives the fan is mounted on the front of the water pump (arrowed). You can keep the

Unorthodox pulleys.

 

IT'S FIXED! Also I dream of an engine that shiny..

 

First thing was my confusion between sidelights and low beam/high beams, now known that side lights are the ones at the bottom next to the indicators, then low beams are to the external side of the headlights, and then the main beams on the internal side...

 

Second, the new LED bulb in the RHS headlight was a duff, so I had both sidelights after doing that.

 

Then found the dip-damp control unit wires were very corroded and loose, which when fixed got all lights working bar the RHS main beam (unsure if this is coincidental or not).

 

Then tried to swap the dimmer and RHS relays and the LHS lights no longer worked. Relays tested resistance of about 30 ohm and 60 ohm, swapped back and then NEITHER sides worked!

 

THEN sanded the RHS main beam connector and hey presto it worked, repeated LHS likewise and that worked too. They weren't corroded visually.

 

After playing about with the relays and swapping for another one of that type, it turns out one relay was dodgy also.

 

And boom, all working. Now just need some brighter bulbs.

 

Cheers for the advice all, and turns out the fan thing is unrelated, but I'll get that sorted too.