Hi guy

 

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that the white UK 300 on eBay is showing as a 31/12/2001 cat C.

Rockauto is who I use.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1990,300zx,3.0l+v6+turbocharged,1209664,engine,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759

 

Import tax along with a couple other bits was £22 in the end...

Personally I would only ever use Nissan OEM cambelt service parts.

I won't use cheap parts that's for sure, from what I'm reading tho I need an entire kit rather than just belts and pumps.

Roll on Tuesday!

Yep Nissan Cambelt / parts always and here is why >>>

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?130325-Nissan-V-Blueprint-Cambelt-showdown&highlight=cambelt

 

 

Jeff

Personally I would only ever use Nissan OEM cambelt service parts.

 

Yep - OEM is the ONLY choice....!!

 

I won't use cheap parts that's for sure, from what I'm reading tho I need an entire kit rather than just belts and pumps.

Roll on Tuesday!

 

Whilst you have everything off at the front end, you're best off replacing the water pump anyway. It's not too expensive and sod's law says it will fail within a few months, so you'll have that labour cost all over again. You should also replace the thermostat - again stick to Nissan OEM - and again it just makes economic sense to do it whilst the front of the engine is off; irrespective of whether it's still good or not. It's vital to replace the two little water hoses - re-fitting the old ones is just not worth it.....

 

.......The only thing I would consider not changing is the big idler pulley. That is the most expensive item in the kit at around £200-£250 - and is generally replaced at 120k miles - so if yours is low mileage, then you might get away with leaving it this time.

 

JeffTT did my cambelt when I bought the blue Zed at 69k miles - and did not feel the need to change the big pulley. He replaced the belt again at 85k miles, when the water pump went; and still left the original pulley in place. I'm now on 106k miles, so no doubt Jimmer will recommend replacing it when he does the next belt change.... The pulley often squeals on start-up when it shows signs of wear.

Thanks Richard, again yet more useful advice from you all.

With regards to Tuesday.

Is the vin stamped on the chassis anywhere other than the usual window display and plate under the bonnet?

To avoid looking a fool could you advise me where the engine numbers are located on a TT?

And lastly I will be thoroughly examining for rot to the extent that I can visually. Am I right it's rear arches, sills, around both top struts under the bonnet that are the usual areas?

Thanks Richard, again yet more useful advice from you all.

With regards to Tuesday.

Is the vin stamped on the chassis anywhere other than the usual window display and plate under the bonnet?

To avoid looking a fool could you advise me where the engine numbers are located on a TT?

And lastly I will be thoroughly examining for rot to the extent that I can visually. Am I right it's rear arches, sills, around both top struts under the bonnet that are the usual areas?

 

Vin number is on the firewall in the middle behind the looms.

 

Engine number is on the back of the engine and not easily accessible iirc.

 

Back bit inside the rear bumper also rust. Check all the wheel well including the inside of wheel well. And front cross member also goes.

The VIN is not displayed under the window. As Ali says it's on the firewall (arrowed) and on the plate by the radiator.

 

 

You won't be able to see the engine number.

 

The corrosion checklist you have identified is good start for structural corrosion assuming you won't be able to get the

car in the air when you collect.

 

Now that the seller knows it has been Cat C'd, is he able to provide any information on what was actually repaired?

Have you bought the car mate?

Have you bought the car mate?

 

Leaving at 10am to go get it pending a brief inspection.

All going well it will be home by 13:30.

What would be classed as 'terminal rot/rust that I may be able to spot?

I'd be careful mate if that sill is rotten that bad, what's underneath going to be like, it may need major welding, the car is 25 years old and without test driving or even hearing that engine your buying it blind, it could have valve stems gone, turbo seals gone or any other issues especially when it's been stitting for over 4 years lots of things can be seised and not working, these cars are big money pits, just be very careful if it's too much you can always walk away it's never too late

Its hard to see rot as its hidden, once you start cleaning it all back, that's when the holes start to appear and when you start grinding it back the holes start to get bigger, welding is not a nice job and is expensive, be aware

Leaving at 10am to go get it pending a brief inspection.

All going well it will be home by 13:30.

What would be classed as 'terminal rot/rust that I may be able to spot?

 

At the end of the day anything can be fixed it just depends how deep your pockets are. But try not to be negative about the viewing and if your getting the car cheap enough at least you have the option of breaking it if its very bad.

Thanks ill bare it all in mind.

I'm paying under 2000 so if all goes wrong hopefully I can get most of it back

It's a shame to break cars that you don't see no more on the roads just to make some money back

I don't plan to break it.

I plan a long slow restoration at a pace I can afford

Will update u all later

Thanks ill bare it all in mind.

I'm paying under 2000 so if all goes wrong hopefully I can get most of it back

 

Ture, however there are a number of cars on this forum who have had serious corrosion problems and been

successfully repaired. The car is a late UK spec manual model and as such is a rare bird these days. Worth

bearing that in mind IMHO.

Ture, however there are a number of cars on this forum who have had serious corrosion problems and been

successfully repaired. The car is a late UK spec manual model and as such is a rare bird these days. Worth

bearing that in mind IMHO.

 

Exactly!

Wish me luck

In my head the plan is to get it home, settle it in my heated garage, give lithe exterior a really good visual inspwction. Get it in the air and check underneath, remove bumpers ect to inspect and possibly interior.

Then out with the engine and running gear so my friend can set about the bodywork/rust and respray.

I'll be sending the gearbox off for a refurb and potentially be stripping the engine down to do the same.

If it takes me 5 years, I don't care as long as at the end of it I have the car I always wanted as kid.

I am really looking forward to this

In my head the plan is to get it home, settle it in my heated garage, give lithe exterior a really good visual inspwction. Get it in the air and check underneath, remove bumpers ect to inspect and possibly interior.

Then out with the engine and running gear so my friend can set about the bodywork/rust and respray.

I'll be sending the gearbox off for a refurb and potentially be stripping the engine down to do the same.

If it takes me 5 years, I don't care as long as at the end of it I have the car I always wanted as kid.

I am really looking forward to this

 

Sounds like a great plan and the journey is as much fun as the destination. Enjoy the ride and look forward to the updates.

Bought it. And is currently on it's way home!!!

I'll post some pictures when it's here.

Is it photobucket for photos Here?

Bought it. And is currently on it's way home!!!

I'll post some pictures when it's here.

Is it photobucket for photos Here?

Photobucket is unusable now. If you're going to subscribe do that and you can upload photos on here.

Bought it. And is currently on it's way home!!!

I'll post some pictures when it's here.

Is it photobucket for photos Here?

 

Now that you are subscribed you can post with an image:

 

Thanks Andrew.

Sat on my drive eagerly awaiting it's arrival

Happy as a pig in sh#t.

Definitely a fixer upper and a lot of work

Appears to have an AP 6 pot big brake set up and front mount intercooler?

Headlights are sitting low which is worrying and a fair bit of welding to be done.

Here's a few pics