As with most projects and rebuilds, they all start in the same place, mine was no different. However, this isn’t truely the start of my forever ongoing Z project. I’ve owned this car (my second Z) since 2008 when I purchased it from a former member. For the first 5 or 6 years I did the usual mods with suspension parts and basic bolt ons. For reasons unknown, whilst running stock boost, piston 5 cracked a ring land during a track day at Castle Coombe. A forged build and a remap later all was well until a sunny October’s day 2013 at Bruntingthorpe killed that engine with what at the time was a suspected head gasket failure at 181mph..... And this is where I shall start my journal.

 

The Z was stored off the road from Oct 2013 until March 2015. I’d had a major knee operation at the beginning of 2015 which meant I was going to be off work for 6 months. I’d saved up enough to start thinking about a parts list to rebuild her and frankly, after a couple of months of staring at the same 4 walls, I was going stir crazy! I employed the help of a good friend and decided to pull the engine and see what was what.... just a head gasket my arse!

 

March 2015

Problem 1: It turns out stainless steel, exhaust wraps and condensation don’t mix well

 

Before I’d even got the engine out, a new set of downpipes was added to this list. These AMS items were only 2 years old, so I was far from impressed! I contacted the retailer and after a bit of tooing and froing I secured myself a set of replacements for free... how long they will last, only time will tell!

Not a lot to update everyone on. Engines out and in bits with no “smoking gun” of why I had metal in the oil. Bearings all show an even, if slightly excessive amount of wear, but nothing that I think correlates to what I found in the oil. For the time being I’m taking a well earned break from working on it and am enjoying being back on 2 wheels again (BMW S1000RR if anyone’s interested).

 

Anyway, before I discovered this little issue, a new “car media” company asked for my car for a photo shoot.... here are a few of this pics of my car

Love the dark pics its very different.

Well after a summer of fun on two wheels, time to focus on the Z again. I’ve pretty much decided on what I want to do this time round and what I’m going to do differently. I’m going to stick to the ethos that I had before, in that I want to build an engine that’s capable of way more than I ever plan on achieving.

 

I’m still yet to find out a definitive cause of the bearing failure, so I can only assume that while I triple checked my bearing clearances (using Plastigauge) and found them to be on the “loose” end of the factory guidelines, they simply weren’t wide enough for my application. Given that factory clearances are designed for a circa 300hp engine, where my engine generates double that, it’s a feasible explanation.

 

There’s potentially another couple of contributing factors to premature bearing failure.

 

1. The Eagle Rods.

EP racing posted an interesting series of videos recently around issues with Eagle rods. The long and short of it is that he has now seen more than a few examples of Eagle rods where the specified torque value for the ARP bolts (43lbs/ft) is insufficient to gain the required bolt stretch (0.0050-0.0055in). Sounds negligible. However, the amount of bolts stretch evidences how much clamping pressure the bolt is applying to the rod cap. If the bolt isn’t stretched sufficiently, it’s not holding the rod cap in place causing two potential outcomes. First is that small levels of movement/deflection occurs causing movement in the bearing (so possible bearing-journal contact). Second is the bearing isn’t compressed to form the correct shape, again potentially causing bearing-journal contact.

 

 

By no means am I saying eagle rods are bad, or they all do this etc. Just that it’s a evidenced problem, and a potential cause of my premature rod bearing failure.

 

The only way for me to check whether this has been an issue, is to completely strip the engine down, again, and inspect the rods and measure the amount of bolt stretch.

 

2. OE Crank Gurdle

It’s seems to be generally accepted that the stock girdle should be upgraded above the 550whp mark (634ish at the crank). This is due to the girdle deforming under higher loads causing bearing-journal contact. Now while I’ve not quite been at those levels, I’m not going to be far off. To address this, I’m going to be installing an EPR billet cap kit (rated to over 1500hp) to make sure nothing moves that’s not mean to move.

 

3. Lightweight crank pulley

I’ve always had a niggle in the back of my mind about solid crank pulleys.

Nissan decided that the OE crank pulley should be dampened, yet for the sake of rotational mass, I stuck a lightweight item on. Now while I, and many others, have run lightweight solid crank pulleys with no problems, I reeeeeeeeally don’t want to be doing another bearing set again. So, to minimise any harmonic damage, I’ll be fitting an ATi Super Damper crank pulley this time rounds.

 

Im also going to install an EP Racing extended sump aswell as having my crank and oil pump converted into a High Speed Oiling System to ensure my bearings maintain a nice thick oil cushion for my widened bearing clearances (0.0030). Instead of using Plastigauge I’m going to be as accurate as possible and have everything measured with micrometers and Dial bore gauges.

 

While the engines out, im also going to upgrade the steering rack bushings to Whiteline items aswell as replace my AC condenser and straighten out my radiator support (to resolve my less than perfect bonnet shut gap)

 

I’m hoping to get the block into Roland Alsop before Christmas and my crank off to EP racing in the next week or so..... and having seen some of his head work on a set of 48p heads, I’m very tempted to send my 48p’s off to him for some work aswell.... depends how much overtime I can smash in the coming months.

 

I’m aiming to get the car driveable again for May time, but I’m not going to stress over it if I can’t.

Thanks for the update Nick, glad to read you have still got your Z32 mojo and haven't gone all German on us!

 

1. The Eagle Rods.

EP racing posted an interesting series of videos recently around issues with Eagle rods. The long and short of it is that he has now seen more than a few examples of Eagle rods where the specified torque value for the ARP bolts (43lbs/ft) is insufficient to gain the required bolt stretch (0.0050-0.0055in). Sounds negligible. However, the amount of bolts stretch evidences how much clamping pressure the bolt is applying to the rod cap. If the bolt isn’t stretched sufficiently, it’s not holding the rod cap in place causing two potential outcomes. First is that small levels of movement/deflection occurs causing movement in the bearing (so possible bearing-journal contact). Second is the bearing isn’t compressed to form the correct shape, again potentially causing bearing-journal contact.

 

So this is not confined to Eagle rods? Presumably the lack of torque for the ARP bolts would apply to rods from Carrillo and Crower for example?

 

2. OE Crank Gurdle

It’s seems to be generally accepted that the stock girdle should be upgraded above the 550whp mark (634ish at the crank). This is due to the girdle deforming under higher loads causing bearing-journal contact. Now while I’ve not quite been at those levels, I’m not going to be far off. To address this, I’m going to be installing an EPR billet cap kit (rated to over 1500hp) to make sure nothing moves that’s not mean to move.

 

Where can I read more about this limit to the stock girdle?

Thanks for the update Nick, glad to read you have still got your Z32 mojo and haven't gone all German on us!

 

 

 

So this is not confined to Eagle rods? Presumably the lack of torque for the ARP bolts would apply to rods from Carrillo and Crower for example?

 

 

 

Where can I read more about this limit to the stock girdle?

 

It’s not the bolts, it’s the rods. They’re not putting up enough resistance to cause the bolts to stretch. Whether it’s a forging issue or something else I’m not sure.

 

As for the crank girdle, I’ll see if I can find the few bits I’ve read. I’m fairly sure BDE, EPR and a couple of others have written down their beliefs around the limitations of the OE girdle. I’ll see if I can find the bits I’ve read

Thanks Nick. Just watched the EPR videos on Eagle rods - thought provoking. As Mitch says "I don't like running these rods"

You going to stay with them?

Thanks Nick. Just watched the EPR videos on Eagle rods - thought provoking. As Mitch says "I don't like running these rods"

You going to stay with them?

 

Depends what I find when I inspect them. If they behave as they should, I’ll continue with them. If not, I’ll probably looks at Scat or Carrillo

Thanks Nick. Just watched the EPR videos on Eagle rods - thought provoking. As Mitch says "I don't like running these rods"

You going to stay with them?

 

Doh, Quoted the wrong post.

 

Here’s a little write up on the OE crank girdle

 

Well this evening I committed to my future engine plans.

 

Watch this space for future updates..... as per usual I’ve decided on a few parts that very few, if anyone in the UK is currently running.

 

Exciting times

Well this evening I committed to my future engine plans.

 

Watch this space for future updates..... as per usual I’ve decided on a few parts that very few, if anyone in the UK is currently running.

 

Exciting times

 

Sounds expensive...

Sounds expensive...

 

Erm.... a little. Last chance saloon for my Z really. If things don’t work out after this, then it’ll be going.

Good luck Nick hope it all works out. :clover:

Fingers crossed for you Nick, we need to do this photoshoot!

Fingers crossed for you Nick, we need to do this photoshoot!

 

Dam straight we do!

 

I’m just waiting on confirmation on compatibility for a particular part and my Haltech. I’m 99% sure it’ll work with no issues, but I want to confirm before I commit to it, it’s not a cheap bit of kit

Time to propose your new build spec list, lots of keen eyes and ears to see what's at the forefront of VG30 tuning in 2018!

A quick though, I’m sure you already did this but you did replace the oil cooler and all hoses after the last engine failure?

Nice build by the way:thumbup:

A quick though, I’m sure you already did this but you did replace the oil cooler and all hoses after the last engine failure?

Nice build by the way:thumbup:

 

Yes, cooler was replaced with an updated item and lines were cleaned. The previous build didn’t have any bearing damage or debris in the oil. This time, both cooler and lines will be replaced

I’m just waiting on confirmation on compatibility for a particular part and my Haltech. I’m 99% sure it’ll work with no issues, but I want to confirm before I commit to it, it’s not a cheap bit of kit

 

Which is?

Which is?

 

So, the new engine spec is....

 

88mm CP Pistons

Saenz Forged Con Rods

King XP main and big end bearings

EP Racing Thermal Barrier Piston Coating

EP Racing High Performance Bearing Coating

EP Racing Billet Crankshaft Cap kit

EP Racing High Capacity baffled Sump v2

ARP main crank and head studs

EP Racing modified crank

EP Racing modified oil pump

Ross Performance dampened crank pulley with 12 tooth Timing Ring and Hall Effect sensor

Ross Performance Camshaft Trigger Kit (CAS Elimination kit)

EP Racing “Street” profile CNC Head Port

 

As well as carrying over my existing parts...

 

SuperTech 0.5mm valves

SuperTech dual coil valve springs and titanium spring retainers

BDE v2 intake VTC pulleys

Power Enterprises Kevlar timing belt

EP Racing belt tensioner

AMS exhaust manifolds

Z1 GT525 turbos

AMS 3in expansion down pipes

WinFactory top feed fuel rail with Injector Dynamics 1050x (1065cc) injectors

Z1 SMIC modified with 2.5in flanges

Setrab 19 row oil cooler

AMS alternator/power steering pulleys

 

All built by EP Racing

 

The issue with the Ross Performance kit isn’t actually the kit, it’s my Haltech, which unfortunately is limited on trigger options due to firmware limitations. Just awaiting confirmation that if I wire it into the relevant pins in the ECU that it’ll recognise the new signal input

Edited November 18, 20187 yr by nickz32

Ross Performance dampened crank pulley with 12 tooth Timing Ring and Hall Effect sensor

Ross Performance Camshaft Trigger Kit (CAS Elimination kit)

 

I wondered if you were referring to crank triggered timing and Haltecs which is why I asked the "which is" question. I came

across this thread on the Australian forum discussing why's and how's of crank triggered timing, the ROSS products and

further down discusses Haltec ECU's. I'm sure you have read it Nick, but thought it would be an interesting read for others:

 

https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/ross-racing-harmonic-balancer-with-crank-trigger-wheel.336064/

Edited November 18, 20187 yr by AndrewG
Spelling!

Are EPR shipping you the short block built with all the relevant bits?

I wondered if you were referring to crank triggered timing and Haltecs which is why I asked the "which is" question. I came

across this thread on the Australian forum discussing why's and how's of crank triggered timing, the ROSS products and

further down discusses Haltec ECU's. I'm sure you have read it Nick, but thought it would be an interesing read for others:

 

https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/ross-racing-harmonic-balancer-with-crank-trigger-wheel.336064/

 

Are EPR shipping you the short block built with all the relevant bits?

 

Yes I’ve read that thread and spoke to rob over Pm. Looks like I’ll be fine.

 

No, I’ve bought a core bottom end from Mitch, but I’m shipping my heads etc for him to CNC port and then build a Long Block, and I’ll put the rest on when it’s shipped back

Something else I forgot to add to the list is that I’m having one of the blanked off ports into the oil galleys opened up and machined for an AN fitting block off. The plan in the future is to plumb in an Accusump System, but have it fed directly into the oil galley that supplies the crank rather than using a sandwich plate arrangement.

 

That in combination with the extended baffled sump should provide as much protection for the bottom end as possible, short of going for a full dry sump

Yet more money....

 

So having contemplated the thermal management side of things, as well as my previous bad history with heat wrap, I wanted to look at alternative solutions for reducing engine bay temps.

 

Initially I thought about making a heat shield that fit my manifolds properly and then insulating certain components with a decent quality gold insulator. But having completed a reasonable amount of research, there appears to be reasonable doubt as to the effectiveness of such products (gold coated insulation).

 

I also thought about using a turbo blanket for the hot side of each turbo.

 

However I have decided to go down the ceramic coating route. I spoke to Jaffa about the results he had when ceramic coating his exhaust parts and he gave very positive feedback.

 

So I will be having my manifolds, turbine housings and down pipes all ceramic coated by EP Racing. This should give me a significant reduction in engine bay temps aswell as reduce the amount of heat soak the engine suffers with.