I am just about to order an after market turbo pressure guage and oil temp gauge but for the oil temp gauge would i need an electric one or capillary one

I am not really bored already on my first day back at work (honest);)

Can't see how you could possibly need a capiliary one for oil temp, maybe for oil pressure.

 

Unless I'm misunderstanding something here ....

Both exist (no, really, Andy.. :)).

 

Personally - since you're going to have to drill & tap, or at the very least rethread a fitting, unless you can find one with the correct fitting already - get an electric one.

 

I don't like the idea of 50psi of red hot oil in the cabin, much..

well the reason i ask is that on the sites that supply them they offer both electric and capillary but by the sounds of it ...electric is the way to go , what's involved in fitting them

Well what I would do is this - as you're fitting both pressure & temp - (and one of these days I'll get around to actually fitting my oil guages and do the same);

 

Use the fitting for the stock oil pressure sender for one of them, and then use the blanked off fitting for the other - the blanked off fitting is where US Z's have their oil pressure sender (have a look at the tech articles on TT.net, there's a good pic - just above the oil filter, basically)..

 

Trouble is the thread sizes.. I'm not sure what the stock threads are - they are *either* 1/8NPT or M10... I can't tell, as I don't have a thread guage unfortunately, but most likely you'll need a screw in adapter

 

Then just ditch the stock pressure sender as it's pants anyway..

 

Oh and heave all the wires through into the cabin, lots of grommets hiding around the place - there's one behind the pass. side wheelarch liner, and there's one that the bonnet release cable goes through that you can get to from down in the corner on the drivers side of the firewall..

 

HTH.

now that is an impressive reply thanks Aaron i will have a look at the TT.net info and i presume you just use the existing wiring for the turbo pressure ??

Nope - your new guage & sender will (ought to) come with a loom to plug everything together..

 

BTW, if you put a gun to my head and forced me to guess at the thread size, I'd go with 1/8NPT - but I think the 'nipple' on the temp sender was too long, and was stopping me from screwing the sender in..

Aaron no need for the gun unless of course your wrong and i blow me car up :D

I don't think you could blow your car up doing this... :)

 

Well actually - just make sure that neither of your senders block the oil lines they are screwing into, and you'll be fine (i.e. nothing deeper than the stock sender).

just out of curiosity where have most people got the gauge kits from as there is a massive range in price , In December/Jan Max power there was a company doing electronic-digital gauges which looked cool and reletively cheap although could be a pain trying to look at your turbo boost , but i can find no info on the company at all

I got my SPA guages (http://www.mind-design.co.uk/images/redguages640.jpg) from Demon Tweeks, about £140 if I recall..

 

Peak hold, red/green illumination, etc etc. Good guages, IMHO, though not quite as easy to read (for boost anyway) as an analogue faced guage.

Originally posted by aaronjb

Both exist (no, really, Andy.. :)).

 

Personally - since you're going to have to drill & tap, or at the very least rethread a fitting, unless you can find one with the correct fitting already - get an electric one.

 

I don't like the idea of 50psi of red hot oil in the cabin, much..

 

But surely the oil would have cooled by the time it reaches the gauge ?!?

The thread is 1/8NPT.

 

I have put an oil pressure gauge in. Put the sender unit on instead of the stock on, or buy a T-Piece. You can change it with the oil in, just put your finger over the hole when you take the old one off and then move it when you put the new one on. If you are quick enough you will only get a drop of two coming out.

 

Then get a wire coming from the back of the sender unit, should be a tread on it, and feed it into the cabin. There is a hole at the back between the engine and the battery, I use that.

Thread the wire to behind the centre console. Then for the light and power for the dial, get the light from the ash tray light and get the power from the cigarette lighter. They are close and ideal for your needs.

 

I did all that then found the dial to be faulty.

But I am with most of you, I dont like the idea of having hot oil and water going into the driving area. Some people say that mechanical is more accurate, which may have been true 10-15 years ago, but not now.

Senders do go, but its only £10 for a new one. The springs in dial go too, but its £30-60 (What every you spent) for a new dial.

 

 

 

Stuart

Cheers for all your help and advice guys having looked at the demon tweeks range i think that is what i will purchase