Hello floods on 1/1/03 killed my Z, Water was sucked in to engine, removed plugs and run starter water went everywhere. Replaced plugs engine started then stoped with a clunk, no water in cilinders but engine will not turn over anymore can anyone help???

 

92 Jap spec fairlady Z Twin Turbo

Sounds like the engines Hydraulisised to me, whick is not good news whatever way you look at it.

 

You say sucked in water, do you mean you ran through water and the engine dies as you exited? You go on to say water went everywhere, do you mean it came out of the bores, i.e. plugholes? If this is the case the worse scenario is bent rods and crank, with the associated damage, i.e knackered bores etc. probabally a new short engine. :(

 

But, having just re-read your post you said it ran then stopped, is the engine now siezed? Check it by removing the plugs, putting it in neutral and try turning it over.

 

Any more details?

 

Tim

this happened to jalox a while ago and he got his insurance company to pay for a new engine! its worth checking out.

cheers

steve

No I got the car recoverd to a mates house, where my dad and i removed the spark plugs and turned the engine over on the starter to empty the bores of water. We then put it all back togeter and try'd to start it, it turned over for a bit trying to start then started and then it stoped with a clunk, so we removed to plugs yet again and try'd to turn the engine over again but will just not turn over. Will hopefully be removing to sump at the w/end to see if its bent a con-rod or something, if anyone can give my some advise, info or any idea on how to fix it please, please help me.

 

Thanks

Mathew

Will hopefully be removing to sump at the w/end to see if its bent a con-rod or something, if anyone can give my some advise, info or any idea on how to fix it please, please help me.

 

Have you looked at the sump- it is almost as hard to get to as taking the engine out. you need to drop all the suspension. how long did the engine start for? will it turn the opposite way with a spanner on the pulley?

No i have not yet looked at the sump yet, and the engine fired up for only a few seconds then stoped. Have not yet tryed to turn the engine the other way yet as it was dark last night 1/1/03 and have not yet got the car back home as unable to tow it yet!

 

Mathew

When an engine sucks up water it trys to compress it, as someone said, what happens then depends on the weakest link, some engines bend a single rod, some bend more than one, some do this and break/crack a piston or two. The act of bending a rod tends to stop the damage at that one, but of course it depends on how many pistons were on the compression stroke too. In my experience the bores are often OK. As your engine has stopped, it might have cracked a piston, and the running finished it off.

I made this mistake with a 405 diesel, it ran ok ish until I ran it up the road, piston broke up, conrod came thruogh the block etc. If I had stripped the engine before running it up the road I could have saved it.

What ever, you will almost certainly need to strip the engine and replace parts. And that means taking it out I guess.

After I cleard the water and started it up i ran perfectly until it stoped with a clunk and now nolonger turns over. so I just hope it did not do too much damage. What a start to the new year, killing my car newyears day.

Just had another thought, the intercoolers get filled with water, so when you have cleared all of the water out of the engine, it fills itself back up when the intercoolers get sucked dry. At idle the water in the coolers will often stay there, its not till you rev it that they empty.

It started as soon as it was put back together then stoped I did't have time to rev it at all. Whats worrying me is the clunk it made when it stoped, but after removing the plugs it turnd over about once then stoped an now no longer turns over. Just got it moved to my place this morning, so will try to turn the engine over backwards to see if it moves, then I'll probably remove the sump to see if there is anything there thats dead, bent or anything else.

 

Thanks

Mathew

Started to strip engine, cam belt is in one pice but engine will only turn about 1/4 of a turn then locks, but can then be turnd back 1/4 of a turn, dose anybody know what i shoud look for next??? Help Please

 

Mat:confused:

A second hand engine:( Sounds like something is seriously wrong there. Thought of trying to get a new engine out of your insurance?

Don't like to be the prophet of doom :eek:

 

But it does sound like the valves are hitting the pistons :(

 

Complete strip and build?

 

Soz mate

 

Nick

Thanks for the help ppl, I start striping the rest of the engine tomorrow and will keep you posted on the progress, but if anyone can help with what could be the problem please leave me a message.

 

Thanks ppl

Mathew "Very upset Z owner' Levett

Can't see why valves would be hitting the pistons after this kind of problem tbh - unless a valve has jammed. Sounds more like an either bent or broken rod or a shagged piston. One other point is the turbos - they run at very high temperatures and if they suddenly filled with water, not only blade damage but also they may crack due to rapid cooling. Have you got the engine out yet? Have you checked the oil for water? If you have had water in the oil don't forget to clean out and rebuild the oil pump too - always too easy to forget ;) Worst case senario is probably bend/broken rods, bent crankshaft, damaged pistons. Any of these could have happened - I presume no rods have come through the block though???

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Thanks for the info ppl

Just finished removing the timing belt covers, the cam belt is in one bit, so my old man has decided that the problem is the top end not the bottom end as there is a knocking from the top when the crank is turned. Dose anyone know how to remove the inlet manafolds, as we can't work out how to remove the wireing loom without damaging the injecter plugs? Thanks ppl

 

Mat

i had exactly the same and my insurance payed out for a brand spanking new engine,the lot.

you should look into it.

 

the cost for me was i payed a %=3k and the insurance stumped up the rest=7k

 

if you want to chat then email me at jaylox@z32.co.uk

 

good luck bud jaylox

Originally posted by mtl

Just finished removing the timing belt covers, the cam belt is in one bit, so my old man has decided that the problem is the top end not the bottom end as there is a knocking from the top when the crank is turned. Dose anyone know how to remove the inlet manafolds, as we can't work out how to remove the wireing loom without damaging the injecter plugs? Thanks ppl

 

Mat

 

With all due respect, nothing you describe points to a top end problem. With the exception of dropped valves (which are highly unlikely - you'd be more likely to have valves forced out the top by hydraulic pressure!), problems which stop the engine turning over are generally caused at the bottom. I'd put money on one of Andy Duff's pointers being correct.

 

I wish you luck whatever it is.

 

Dave

Thanks ppl, I'v goto finish stripping the engine but can't do much as it's SNOWING I hate this weather. I'll strip the bottom end first then and hope Its not done to much damage. Dose anyone know where I can get parts if I need any, oh and I don't think that the ins company will payout as its a motortrade policy and in TPFT only.

 

Thanks Again

Mathew

I cant see it being the bottom end, but you never know. You might be able to see a damaged piston from the bottom, I dont know. I feel it is more probably the piston/s and or a bent rod. Why a bent rod would stop it turning over I dont know, as in I feel it wouldnt stop it. But if a piston is falling to bits tha t might, and it might aslo bend/break a valve as it goes up and tries to squash the bits against the head/valves.

In my limited exp, it should only have bent a rod and/or damaged a piston or two. Or as someone said, maybe it has wrecked a turbo and pust some of those bits on top of a piston.

Sorry to ramble on, thinking out loud really.

I have to agree with mark. why not take the top apart first, just the camshafts then you can see if the valves are stuck down.

You didn't drop anything down whilst the spark plugs where out did you?

i reckon your bottom end has water in the oil which has siezed the bottom end as soon as u started it up, the water would have contaminated the bearings causing extreme heat v v quickly plus a serious lack of lube due to any water prescence and your main or big ends would have nipped up, then when you turned it with spanner in op direction this quarter turn is all you can do untill it nips the other way, sounds to me as though it was inevitable no matter wot u did, try not too beat yourself up about it , i would definately look into ins paying for it, trade policy or not, as gonna be well costly otherwise, hows it going so far anyway where u up too???

Sorry Gavo, I could not disagree more. What you have said would just not happen that way. In fact water in the oil or not the bottom end would not care too muchat tickover speed. Sure it would not do it any good, but it would run for quite a while. If you think about a car with the head gasket gone, it often means water in the iol, to a lesser extent maybe, but the bottom end goes on and on. and water and oil does lubricate anyway. No offence.

no offence taken mate but untill he pulls the motor too bits its all speculation anyway, and although i conceed that whatever has happenned is better to have happenned at tickover thats still 1000 rpm and not good, and i really dont feel that it was avoidable, poor unlucky sod is what comes too fore front of my mind !!

Thanks ppl still trying to remove the inlet manafold but i'm not 100% on how to remove it and the wireing loom from the injectors without breaking them?

 

Mathew