First up I could do with some advice from experience... Any tips on how to remove and replace the nut on the underside of the area circled in red? Spent about 30 minutes at it last night with various tools but I couldn't really get anything on it, even with the assembly fully lifted.

 

I did this not too long ago when i replaced the bushes in the shifter mechanism, if i remember correctly i had to use a swivel head ratchet spanner, with restricted movement your maybe only getting a couple of clicks at a time but after perseverance i got it buttoned up, hope that helps somehow!

I did this not too long ago when i replaced the bushes in the shifter mechanism, if i remember correctly i had to use a swivel head ratchet spanner, with restricted movement your maybe only getting a couple of clicks at a time but after perseverance i got it buttoned up, hope that helps somehow!

 

I'll try that tonight if I can find the 12mm ratchet! The guides online are mostly using LHD cars or short-shifters so it's good to know it's doable.

yeah it's a pain, especially if you don't have small hands! lol, plus the amount of times i dropped the nut/washer while trying to thread it on to start with,thenhad to get out the car and lean under it to pick it up...have fun :D

Shifter is off now. Unfortunately, that stud broke :(

Why are you taking the shifter out Jay?

 

Also which stud broke? One of those two bolts that hold the shifter in?

Why are you taking the shifter out Jay?

 

Also which stud broke? One of those two bolts that hold the shifter in?

 

Changing the bushings, or rather installing some. I'm not sure the old ones could've disintegrated to the point of being invisible.

 

Yes one of those - the one in the bottom left corner with the nut underneath.

Changing the bushings, or rather installing some. I'm not sure the old ones could've disintegrated to the point of being invisible.

 

Yes one of those - the one in the bottom left corner with the nut underneath.

Ah okay. I made some brass ones for mine so there is no slop.

 

You could probably just hammer the stud out and jsut replace it with a normal bolt and nut I would suggest.

It's the bolts underneath you should have removed, you don't take the ones off facing you.

 

I replaced the little top-hat bushings a few years ago with OEM nylon ones. Nice crisp, slick gear change.

It's the bolts underneath you should have removed, you don't take the ones off facing you.

 

I replaced the little top-hat bushings a few years ago with OEM nylon ones. Nice crisp, slick gear change.

 

Not sure I follow - it's the one underneath (red circled area above) that broke off?

Not sure I follow - it's the one underneath (red circled area above) that broke off?

He's referring to the bottom of the shifter where the old bushings are, stating you don't have to take the shifter out do it while bolted in. Though I would say its simply easier to reinstate the bushings when the shifter is out of the car, especially as my brass ones were press fit so didn't move.

 

You've unbolted it now anyway :yes:

He's referring to the bottom of the shifter where the old bushings are, stating you don't have to take the shifter out do it while bolted in. Though I would say its simply easier to reinstate the bushings when the shifter is out of the car, especially as my brass ones were press fit so didn't move.

 

You've unbolted it now anyway :yes:

 

Yeah I suppose it would be possible to do it that way, but the area where the bushings should be is filthy! Much easier to clean it once the whole shifter is out of the car.

Next step is crank pulley removal. Here's what the Wiki guide says to do:

 

 

1. If the vehicle is in the air, lower it so all four wheels are resting on the ground.
   
2. Put the transmission in 5th gear and set the parking brake hard.
   
3. Loosen the 27mm bolt securing the crank pulley to the crank shaft.
   


1. If you have a breaker bar or a low-profile impact wrench, now is the time to use it.
   

 

[*]Don't fully remove the bolt, as your pulley puller will need to press against it.

 

Now, the car is currently on a single stand, in neutral, with the shifter removed until parts arrive next week. Should I wait until then and follow these exact steps?

It doesnt matter what gear you put the gearbox in the engine will spin regardless, either use an air ratchet, or lock up the flywheel by taking the starter motor out and use a large flat blade screwdriver to lock the teeth of the flywheel. Some pulleys will just pull off with little resistance, but if you need to use a puller, place the nut on the end of the thread a couple of turns, covering the end of the threads so not to damage them with the centre of the pulley puller.:thumbup1:

It doesnt matter what gear you put the gearbox in the engine will spin regardless, either use an air ratchet, or lock up the flywheel by taking the starter motor out and use a large flat blade screwdriver to lock the teeth of the flywheel. Some pulleys will just pull off with little resistance, but if you need to use a puller, place the nut on the end of the thread a couple of turns, covering the end of the threads so not to damage them with the centre of the pulley puller.:thumbup1:

 

Thanks, that's the sort of answer I was hoping for!

 

Removed the water pipes last night - does anyone have a part number for those 6mm hex-head studs?

Tip I was given from Ash and Jeff, just wedge the breaker bar against the frame/floor, remove fuel pump fuse, and slick the starter on. Bolt is now loose.

 

You could try chocking the rear wheels and put in 5th gear but depends how seized the bolt is

 

 

Removing the starter is the sure way to remove the pulley, but can require the exhaust off and it just makes it a big job needing to be jacked up etc.

 

Take your pick of method

Edited March 3, 20178 yr by Alic

Why would you need the exhaust off to get to the starter? :whistling:

Why would you need the exhaust off to get to the starter? :whistling:

In my case, I had the starter heat shield shroud over it, and you cannot get to some of the bolts without the exhaust off unfortunately.

 

At least, On the garage floor it was almost impossible as there is a bolt right behind it. Maybe i'm just being stupid

Edited March 3, 20178 yr by Alic

Ah, i had no heat shield on mine :thumbup1:

Came off easily with the car in gear and brakes on, so didn't need to try the other methods :)

 

Just had to go and buy a new puller. Not many options for value on a Sunday...

So with the choice between a three-pronged puller in Halfords for €35 and a two-pronged Draper puller in a hardware shop for €45, I went for the Draper one to be safe; extra 10mm grip width, and it was a close call as to whether either of them was big enough. Regretting that decision now as the ****ing thing is too long to clear the condensor :headvswal Not only that, but the width imprinted on the tool is 10mm less than stated on the box, so maybe I should've bought the one in Halfords after all! :pinch:

 

To be continued...

Have you made sure to give it a good tug? Often you can remove them by hand

Have you made sure to give it a good tug? Often you can remove them by hand

 

Yeah, it's on there tight. We've got another tool to try later.

Gear puller is definitely not the best tool for the job here - THIS is.

 

 

It's some sort of specialist Churchill tool for Fords. Pulley came off easy.

Is this a VTC cam? They're spring-loaded anyway.

 

Doesn't look the same as the earlier cams and its a 99 so I would guess not.

Yours

Pre-96:

 

 

I don't think they are spring loaded you might be feeling the cams on the valve lifters, which are spring loaded.

Edited March 10, 20178 yr by Alic