So I said I would bring it to a shop to Finnish her up but I feel like there might be something dumb that I just haven't tried yet. I just rebuild engine new Pistons, rods, bearings, heads done at a shop, exc.

so everything is back on now but the cam belt adjuster was taken off, and I have messed with the tps.

I know my timing is off a bit "sensor" wise just because I can't get her to idle at 650 to adjust properly.

 

Could The cam belt be off a tooth, vac leak?

Any input welcomed

Oh I forgot to put it will start and run but only if I hold the throttle up

Could be an air leek I guess but I think it'd generally idle higher. How are you setting the TPS? You should set it to .44v and then look at the idle adjustment screw at the back of the plenum. What is the timing reading at with a strobe? Should be 15 when up to temp

Honestly just messed with it no real logic behind how I was adjusting it. Didn't seem to change anything by turning it counter clockwise and clockwise

The timing is in that range but it's hard to strobe b/c I can't get it at 600 rpm range without it stalling, so I adjusted it to where it was not backfiring.

 

I'm sorry but what do you mean set it to .44v will it automatically output that at the correct angle.

Yeah, so depending on the angle you set the TPs at, it will read X amount in volts. Most of us see this on a diagnostics program but you can use a multi metre. It's quite important that it's set right. Most people believe .44v is the sweet spot but I think the conzult manual States between .4 and .5v but it'll be relevant to everything else.

Sounds like you've got a few things to check here.

Firstly the car needs to be at operating tempreture, secondly the TPS needs to be set (how to's are available). Once you filled those two you can then check the timing demand via conzult etc, this should say 15btdc, then you check the mechanical timing with the light and adjust via the CAS. You can then detach the idle valve plug on the engine and the idle will drop. Set mechanically to 650. Replugging will yield 750rpm.

Sounds like you've got a few things to check here.

Firstly the car needs to be at operating tempreture, secondly the TPS needs to be set (how to's are available). Once you filled those two you can then check the timing demand via conzult etc, this should say 15btdc, then you check the mechanical timing with the light and adjust via the CAS. You can then detach the idle valve plug on the engine and the idle will drop. Set mechanically to 650. Replugging will yield 750rpm.

 

 

Ok yea I've read one but didn't realize it changes the voltage depending on angle. How can I set my cas when I can't get a stable idle, or do I need a steady idle first? I've messed with the idle screw it seems to do nothing so now I'm starting to assume it may just be a huge vacuum leak.

You can't. If it's that uneven then you have another primary issue. This could be a simple vac leak, bad MAF or simply dirty/poor connections/contacts.

You can't. If it's that uneven then you have another primary issue. This could be a simple vac leak, bad MAF or simply dirty/poor connections/contacts.

 

 

Prior to rebuild it was idling fine, & it has a new wire loom. I will spray some soapy water or carb spray to see if there is a vacuum leak. I won't be able to touch it for a few days though. But I will read up on the tps diy and on the idle set screw.