So I have just removed them in an effort to simplify things further.

Have I done this correct. Actuator to pressure side intake hose with boost jet in.

Turbo intake nipple blanked off. Repeated both sides.

Thanks.

Mark

If I understand you correctly, that you have a single piece from the actuator to the inter cooler pipe, then yes, sort of correct. The only issue is without the boost solenoids you need a bleed off otherwise you will only get wastegate pressure, ie 7psi. If you install an EBC/MBC that solves it. I made the same mistake.

Yes that's what I've done. So the boost jet means nothing in the pipe for upping pressure?

Yes that's what I've done. So the boost jet means nothing in the pipe for upping pressure?

 

The start point with the boost solenoids fitted on a warm engine is around 9 psi as they bleed off around 2 to 3 psi when powered seen by the actuator to delay it opening the waste gate, when removed or not powered ( cold engine ) the actuator sees all the boost and so opens and thus the waste gate earlier giving lower boost of around 6 psi. Fitting boost jets in conjunction with the boost solenoids will allow up to 14 psi with the correct size jet, this sometimes takes some trial and error to get right, some cars need 8 mm jets some a 1.0mm jets and some a mix.

 

Personally I always advocate keeping the boost solenoids in place, this way if det does occur ( bad petrol maybe) the solenoid`s can still cut the boost down to around 10 psi, and could save your engine, also the cold engine protection is still active.

 

Fitting an electronic boost controller is a common method and still I would use the boost solenoids in conjunction with the boost controller for the above reason and it also means the controller solenoid has an easier life with lower duty %

 

Jeff

Its taken so much out of the bay though. Looks like I can do a plenum pull in about 10mins now. The less pipework the better in my mind.

I don't know who's trying to reach full boost on a cold engine but that wont be a concern for me. And safety wise. Will it really get det bad enough through bad fuel?

I think I will see how it goes with this setup and report back. Hopefully gaining no more than 14psi as I've already established its on standard injectors.

Thanks

Fitting boost jets in conjunction with the boost solenoids will allow up to 14 psi with the correct size jet, this sometimes takes some trial and error to get right, some cars need 8 mm jets some a 1.0mm jets and some a mix.

JeffTT was that mean't to be 0.8mm to 1.0mm jets??

Yes that's what I've done. So the boost jet means nothing in the pipe for upping pressure?

 

No you need a bleed off to create a differential, otherwise it just catches up and both sides of the restriction equal out and wastegate pressure is achieved. In theory the boost pressure would spike until it levels out. In reality this happens virtually instantly because there's no volume in the pipe as such, so you won't see this. You will just won't go over 6-7psi.

 

Think of an hour glass, the bottom half will fill from the top. Now imagine the sand from above is endless, eventually both would fill and become equally full of sand. This is how things currently are for you. If you cut a hole that let the sand pour out the bottom section, obviously the bottom would never fill. This is in effect how the stock solenoids, E/MBC work. Metering off air to trick the waste gate into only seeing 7psi.

 

Basically if you wish to run this way you will need an aftermarket boost controller. I can explain this in more detail or provide diagrams if you really need it but that's the bottom line.

JeffTT was that mean't to be 0.8mm to 1.0mm jets??

 

I'd say so lol, an 8mm boost jet wouldn't really fit in the pipe. Not to mention they are mig tips and I've never seen 8mm thick welding wire, I'd call that a rod haha.

OK. In theory then I don't need boost jets. Manual boost controller teed off to both with equal length pipework should work for equal boost. And don't floor it when it's cold

Correct, that's how mine is. There's an obvious risk there but that risk is your own to take. I don't have the factory knock sensor either. Very basic in my bay.

Nice. Ordered some hose for the controller I already have. Pics online show the pressure side only needing to go to one I take not 2. Is this right?

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/article_bthookup2.png

That's correct, except that out turbos don't have a vac nipple like that so you will need to use one of the stock locations on the Intercooler pipes.

Yeah that's fine. Great. Thanks for the help. I will eventually get a project thread going for this car

All back together and it lives :D

Injector was fine and it felt smoother with alot of pipework gone. Still feel like theres an air leak at the back somewhere though.

Boost controller is not in yet and i need to figure out what i can cap off and what i can re-route.

Thanks for the help guys.

Ok 1 last question. Boost controller plumbed in how I think it should work. I've not tried it yet but will tomorrow.

I have what looks like a signal vacuum on drivers side throttle body going to turbo intake. Can this be removed? What's its purpose?

Thanks

That's likely the leftover from the AIV/EGR solenoid vac loop. You can either plug the throttle body and accordion pipe ones or just link them.

Both aiv and egr are gone so they will be plugged. Thank alot. I have a rather large stash of brackets and pipes leftover now haha.

Hopefully you will now have a lot more room too.

I do. Although it doesn't look like much has gone. Really need to finish it tidying wiring and piping up