Hi guys, having trouble with the clutch, I've replaced the slave cylinder but have gotten nowhere, the clutch pedal is up but is extremely soft with no real pressure / resistance, thinking of replacing the clutch master cylinder now. I've done a few searches regarding bleeding / replacing clutch system but I can't seem to find an actual master cylinder removal? Do I just empty the reservoir and then unbolt it, I don't have the top bleed valve on my car but have the braided line from the master to the slave, Is there a different way to bleed this setup? should I try bleeding it again or just bite the bullet and give Nissan ireland €120+Vat for a new master cylinder?

The mechanic has bled the system using a compressor?? is this right or do we need to do this a different way?

Thanks in advance guys:thumbup1:

Rich

As you have a one piece clutch line. Use the slave bleed to drain the system, then unbolt the slave from the bell housing. Then unbolt the clutch master by the two bolts on the firewall and pull the whole thing out. The master can be rebuilt. Then bench bleed the system and refit.

Thanks Steve, is the master cylinder connected to anything inside the car that I'd have to disconnect? Do you think it might be that we are bleeding it wrong??

Brand new cylinder from Z1 in the US just $55 here:

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch-and-flywheel/pbr/300zx-tt-clutch-master-cylinder-p-5694.html

 

The bleeding with a one piece flex pipe should take just a couple of minutes, fill the reservoir and let it gravity bleed through as much as possible with the slave nipple open. Then bleed as normal just a few times ensuring you keep the master cylinder topped up, one trick I used to stop any air getting trapped behind the slave cylinder piston was to squeeze it all the way in a put a cable tie around it.

 

 

Jeff

Brand new cylinder from Z1 in the US just $55 here:

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch-and-flywheel/pbr/300zx-tt-clutch-master-cylinder-p-5694.html

 

The bleeding with a one piece flex pipe should take just a couple of minutes, fill the reservoir and let it gravity bleed through as much as possible with the slave nipple open. Then bleed as normal just a few times ensuring you keep the master cylinder topped up, one trick I used to stop any air getting trapped behind the slave cylinder piston was to squeeze it all the way in a put a cable tie around it.

 

 

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff, but they want a minimum of $92 - $125 to post it:eek::shock::eek:

I saw somewhere that you recommended switching to a NA clutch pedal and master cylinder? Is this still the case?? As above do I just unbolt the master cylinder from the car or do I have to disconnect anything else? Do you recommend rebuilding or are these Herth+Buss Jakoparts Master cylinders sufficient?

http://www.mister-auto.ie/en/clutch-master-cylinder/herth-buss-jakoparts-j2501044_g234_a055J2501044.html

Thanks for you help

Richie

I saw somewhere that you recommended switching to a NA clutch pedal and master cylinder? Is this still the case?? As above do I just unbolt the master cylinder from the car or do I have to disconnect anything else? Do you recommend rebuilding or are these Herth+Buss Jakoparts Master cylinders sufficient?

http://www.mister-auto.ie/en/clutch-master-cylinder/herth-buss-jakoparts-j2501044_g234_a055J2501044.html

Thanks for you help

Richie

 

Only worth changing to non turbo pedal if your clutch booster has gone, that cylinder you have listed will be just fine.

 

Jeff