Ok guys, probably should of started this last year when I decided to resurrect my 1993 JDM 300zx Twin Turbo Auto. I said I call the car "Blue Thunder" (mostly just to annoy everyone:tt2:) as it will be loud and blue:thumbup:.

You'll have to bear with me as I'm going to use previous posts off this forum for most of the current bits and I'm not "computer super proficient" with adding images etc

I'll start at the very beginning if I can remember back that far:lol: (No pics in this quick update) (This is for the benefit of anyone joining after '09)

Bought the car in the summer of 2005, a low mileage (42K) 1993 300zx TT auto, within a few months the timing belt had stripped some teeth, luckily no engine damage. Replaced belts, series 2 PTU and bought my 19" TSW Catalunyas. Had to get the rear wheels custom made to 9.5" as they weren't available in this size:thumbup1:. Went on to buy a Pioneer Avic X1R single DIN touchscreen Sat-Nav stereo to liven up the sounds and my Brembo Big Brake kit.

July 2006 - Engine had a ticking noise, nothing major, diagnosed as sticky lifters, recommended solution was an oil change. Bought 2 4.5 litres of Castrol Edge 10W60, oil filter and an engine flush, brought it to a "garage" and asked them to drop the oil, using the engine flush, refill with the fresh Castrol oil heat it up, flush it out, fit the new filter and refill with the other container of Castrol Edge...Simples:innocent:

Collected the car and went home, got to the house and the engine turned into a tractor, lifted the bonnet, oil everywhere, they'd put the full 9 liters into the car and wrecked the engine.:scared::thumbdown: After a few arguments and the backing of the Motor Factors owner where the oil was bought, the "Garage" eventually admitted responsibility. They sent the car to another "Garage" who was fitting the new engine from API, more drama, Radio was stolen in their care and engine lasted a day, oil sump had been damaged and suction pipe couldn't get enough oil in, another knackered engine:scared::thumbdown:.

2007 - Sued the "Garage" and got the car back 2008.:thumbup1:

2008 - 2009 Went to a decent bloke who sorted the engine, did the manual conversion, fitted a brand new Exedy street performance clutch with an RPS Lightweight Flywheel, BuddyClub Racing Spec Coilovers, Z1 hardpipes and HKS Induction kit. November '09 Hydrolocked the engine driving into a puddle:scared::thumbdown:

2010 - After getting "Ripped off" on a Border Fuel Rail, 555 injectors and Japanese "UK" Clocks (meant to be UK but had been converted) and with a 9% pay deduction and extra Levies / charges on Civil Servants (totalling a 60% deduction of my already diminished gross pay), I called it a day on the Z:thumbdown:

Edited January 8, 20169 yr by Richie K

Why the hell have the pics started rotating!!

 

Pull your handbrake on :yes:

Did the skim and threw in a set of pads to see what the coverage was like, what do you guys reckon?? Is this close enough ??

 

 

Did the skim and threw in a set of pads to see what the coverage was like, what do you guys reckon?? Is this close enough ??

 

The important part of the caliper/pad fitment in relation to the disc is to position the top edge of the pad level with the nominal disc

outside diameter. How does it look on yours?

The important part of the caliper/pad fitment in relation to the disc is to position the top edge of the pad level with the nominal disc

outside diameter. How does it look on yours?

 

I have a bit of pad overhang, I'll have a look again tomorrow, thanks Andrew:thumbup1:

The important part of the caliper/pad fitment in relation to the disc is to position the top edge of the pad level with the nominal disc

Yep.If you have pad overhang then you are effectively reducing the friction area used and therefore the efficiency.

We have had this situation with my mate Steves Time Attack 240Z. The old set up we removed had 4mm pad overhang on a pad measuring 42 mm so about 10%.

That reduces the braking by approx the same amount I reckon.

 

Pad overhang also fools you in to thinking the pad is new even if its half worn cos you only see that outer unused edge.

I'm going to revisit this tomorrow and see if I can shift / finesse the caliper to sit the pad the 4-5mm closer, would it being a 4 pot not increase the area where pressure is applied to a much larger 350mm rear disc??

The pressure applied depends on the size and therefore area of the pistons. For example, a two pot caliper with the same

total piston area as a four pot caliper will excert the same pressure on the pad. What size are your pistons?

The pressure applied depends on the size and therefore area of the pistons. For example, a two pot caliper with the same

total piston area as a four pot caliper will excert the same pressure on the pad. What size are your pistons?

 

It's a dual size with 32mm and 26mm pistons, 26mm on top with 32mm on the bottom.

Had a check of the pads and they fit the 350mm discs perfectly, so I have to shave a few mil off the calipers to get them sitting exact.

 

Pics

 

 

Said I'd put the subframe back together to test fit the wheels and calipers for clearance, have about 3 mils from the spokes:punk:

 

 

 

Edited August 24, 20169 yr by Richie K

I raised the wheel a bit to level off the suspension arms

 

Awesome!

Awesome!

 

Thanks Joel, it still needs a bit of tweaking regarding full pad coverage but I'm getting there:thumbup1:

Tweaking pretty much sorted:punk:

 

Full pad coverage:clap:

 

 

Well done Richie :thumbup:

If you collect the various values required (see calculator notes) you can come up the F/R bias of your new setup.

 

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/

 

By way of reference, for stock calipers, discs and pads below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias

ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1.

 

The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons

relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking

and heavy braking.

Got some info on the BMC with the new setup

 

 

Hope this is what I need to hear and if so is of use to anyone thinking about these upgrades:yes:

Fitted the two rear wheels to the subframe and took a measurement from the outer tyre edge, they measure 6'1" , what is the standard width of a rear Z?

Finished the rear caliper rebuild today:thumbup:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]100555[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]100556[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]100557[/ATTACH]

 

I'm going to use the VW 4 Pot rears as I've got the VW 6 pot fronts

Fitted the two rear wheels to the subframe and took a measurement from the outer tyre edge, they measure 6'1" , what is the standard width of a rear Z?

 

The track will likely change with how you've got that set up atm, until it's under tension from the upright the arc won't be true. So until it's fitted and on the floor your measurement is unlikely accurate or fixed.

Fitted the two rear wheels to the subframe and took a measurement from the outer tyre edge, they measure 6'1" , what is the standard width of a rear Z?

 

Over all width for a LWB is 71" or 5' 11"

By the way the piston areas for the various calipers quoted in the your image posts above are way out. I've highlighted the

offending figures for the Z32 front caliper (the rest are the same):

 

What should it be Andrew?

I'm going to use the VW 4 Pot rears as I've got the VW 6 pot fronts

 

There are 380mm Carbon ceramic.....!

What should it be Andrew?

 

If you take a look at the notes for the calculator in the link I posted earlier for the purposes of calculating F/R bias

with multi pistion calipers then 40.5mm x 2 = 2574 sq mm = 3.99 sq ins.

 

Try the calculator, I used it for the AP F/R setup I have.

Can't make head nor tail of it mate, he was taking both sides of the calipers into account ? I couldn't see how to put in 6 Pistons for the fronts?

 

On another note, I asked the brother if he had any spare M12 x 1.25 wheel nuts, he had a spare set of these off one of his GTR's :punk:

 

Ray's titanium wheel nuts, €125, told me to take them on for free:thumbup: