Power steering pump

[cozza]

Hello,

 

My 300zx (1990 Z32 tt) is a work in progress - bought it as a non runner.

 

Current issue I'm facing is a horrific groan/whining from the power steering when the steering wheel is moved even slightly. I was going to go ahead and order a service kit, strip the pump down etc and try that before getting a new pump ££, but looking for confirmation of leaks first.

 

I have a huge history for the car, and it shows the HICAS was removed in 2010 at 131k miles, shortly before it's SORN (owner passed away) in 2011 at 132k.

 

Currently I have some of the engine stripped etc so can't start it up and test it with new fluid (is a little low), but I was just wondering if anyone knew about the pipeline layout I have in these pictures?

 

 

 

There's been a fair bit of rerouting from the stock power steering system

[david_251180]

Best bet would be to get hold of an na power steering pump and pot and this will clear and clean up engine bay and no re route ingbis required I'm curious to know as I see the solenoid is not removed have the hicas pipes under the car from front to rear been removed ?..

[cozza]

Thanks for the reply David.

 

Is the HICAS system specifically for the tt?

 

I think the pipes are still there, I'd need to check a routing diagram though. Brake pipes to the front have been replaced, and either are next to the power steering pipes, or the old brake pipes have simply been left in (if they follow the same route)

[Alic]

Yes hicas TT only

Thanks for the reply David.

 

Is the HICAS system specifically for the tt?

 

I think the pipes are still there, I'd need to check a routing diagram though. Brake pipes to the front have been replaced, and either are next to the power steering pipes, or the old brake pipes have simply been left in (if they follow the same route)

 

 

Sent from my Elephone P8000 using Tapatalk

[cozza]

Cheers.

 

Will get a look at the routing and see if I can confirm the HICAS removal plate/block at the rear, and the corresponding pipes.

 

Few used tt pumps for sale on ebay. Also found a few non-OEM na pumps (need to import). Any brands you would recommend? Found BBB industries and Cardone.

 

I'll likely try the £15 kit first though - student budget life

[Stephen]

That is the laziest hicas delete I've seen. Get the solenoid off the inner wing and use that banjo on the pump to create a nice tidy return from the rear section to the resivoir. Or as said find an NA pump and bracket.

 

It would appear the pipe work for the hicas is still in place just a dead leg. Does make you wonder what else has been done. Top the fluid up first with dextron auto transmission fluid and check for leaks. A whiney pump is often one without enough fluid. Rebuild of the pump isn't hard.

[david_251180]

If the pipes are still in place you have a fun job to remove but worth while in every way if you jack up actually you don't even need jack up if stock height on passengers side just behind wheel arch the hicas pipes run from front to rear I think there is two if I remember correctly they also run right up through engine bay from passenger side to drivers side where pot and solonoid sit you just need to trace them right back it is possible to trmovrvall with just basic socket set hack saw and loads of patience lol the higher u can getbyhe car the better 4axel stands would be best I only had two when did mine and was a very tight squeeze letvus know what u find you could try mark automodz for PS pump he may have one.

[cozza]

The sills aren't great, not confident with jacks/axle stands for a lengthy period of time. Had it up on some other strong points before for the rear but would really prefer it to be up on ramps. Reckon I could get to most of the difficulties from the rear? Or should I get the front up on ramps, remove what I can, then temporarily support and get the rear up? Assuming I did this once the rest of the engine bay is reassembled obviously.

 

I'll start by topping the fluid once I've reassembled and check for leaks, then fully remove the HICAS once diagnosed. Found a few step by step tutorials but should be alright. Some more engine space would be good

 

Thanks for the help guys

[cozza]

Hey guys, going well but stuck now.

 

Traced pipes back, found them snipped at the rear (along with snipped ex-brake pipes.. I'll be replacing all the brake pipes anyway due to corrosion leaks). There is a solid bar in place where the HICAS cylinder was though thankfully.

 

So the two pipes from the front then join to a block at the rear, which is connected to two flexys, then another bolt holds these in place as they connect to their corresponding pipes.

 

I've removed the pipe/flexy combo, but I can't get the block out that connects to the pipes going to the front. I've taken three 10mm nuts out but no more are visible, and only one part of it can be seen to wiggle slightly. Tried levering gently but can't get it removed. It isn't necessary since I can undo the pipes from it anyway, but would be nice to get it off.

 

Does anyone know if this is held on by a hidden bolt or anything? Tried looking through the boot to see if one went through but its too far towards the middle for it to be there.

 

Removed pipe/flexies:

 

Block I can't remove (1)

(2)

 

Solid bar:

[cozza]

Update: Found a pipeline diagram from a free online manual (http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/). The object I'm trying to remove is the fail-safe valve

[Stephen]

I removed mine, I cannot remember for the life of me how, I don't remember it being complex. I had the rear stripped bare though so maybe that made it easier.

[cozza]

Thanks, yeah just required some WD40 and leverage. I got caked in corrosion once it set free haha. All off now other than the front end of the pipes/front solenoid, will do when its on ramps at the front.

 

But whilst the back is up... going to do the brake pipes.. every one is rotten, along with the transmission pipes leaking. Guy who I bought it from (not the original owner) tried to get a quick MOT on it a few years ago to sell it and the lazy "mechanic" at the garage tried to fix the brake pipe leak (assuming without a pipeline diagram) by connecting the passenger side calipers together.. and the rear caliper to the brake booster...