O.k, I brought my zed (the blue wide arch recently on ebay advertised as sticky lifter) a few months ago with a tappy engine. I've driven it 300 miles and still no improvement. However in this period, the engine has gone completely quite as it should be and power has resumed all be it not for long. This continues to occur and I need help in getting this engine working as it should. The timing is fine, have unplugged vtc connectors and still nothing. On removing the oil cap whilst the engine is noisey there is minimal oil in the head, when the noise clears up oil is splashing around as it should. All help would be grateful as I am really stuck right now and out of pocket!!!! Also looking for someone to carry out the repair plus fit a manual conversion.

 

So in short:

 

Engine ticks/knocks from head/cams/lifters and has no oil to head and suffers a signifiant loss of power ( also misses on start up for a few seconds)

 

When engine is running smoothly, oil is flowing to the head and the car pulls well???????????

 

PLEASE HELP ME

Do you have proper engine oil pressure? The senders do fail but it's a damn good thing to establish. By the sounds of it circulation is por when the oil is thick? Once it thins it's able to circulate?

 

If you need an expert shoot down the M4 to Bristol and see jimmer at powerzed.

Most likely a blocked or faulty check ball/valve in the block...I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you have a good diagnosis done by someone that knows these engines.

 

read this:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171717-head-oil-starvation-or-just-faulty-lifters

There were quite a few people advising the previous owner of your car as to what the issue could be, including when he was selling it.

 

To my knowledge, he never got it checked "properly" and simply sold the car to you instead...

There were quite a few people advising the previous owner of your car as to what the issue could be, including when he was selling it.

 

To my knowledge, he never got it checked "properly" and simply sold the car to you instead...

 

Thanks mate, feel so much better now!! Lol I'm far from happy right now that's for sure.

Do you have proper engine oil pressure? The senders do fail but it's a damn good thing to establish. By the sounds of it circulation is por when the oil is thick? Once it thins it's able to circulate?

 

If you need an expert shoot down the M4 to Bristol and see jimmer at powerzed.

 

From what I've read up on and going on my gauge working after 20 years my oil pressure is ok but will do an oil pressure test tomorrow...

Most likely a blocked or faulty check ball/valve in the block...I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you have a good diagnosis done by someone that knows these engines.

 

read this:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171717-head-oil-starvation-or-just-faulty-lifters

 

This has now become my thinking but problem is that just to get someone to look at these things costs a fortune. If i'm honest i'm a little worried someone attempts diagnosing it and it isn't that and then the cost starts to build..... Now thinking to sell it. Feel completely ripped off

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Most likely a blocked or faulty check ball/valve in the block...I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you have a good diagnosis done by someone that knows these engines.

 

read this:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171717-head-oil-starvation-or-just-faulty-lifters

 

Can the check ball/valve open and close in this way?

What scares me even more is it being an electrical fault!!!!!

As far as I remember, the oil pressure regulator is quite easy to get to

If the car has had irregular services then I could be gummed up, it's down on the filter tree I think.

Wen you open the oil filler, what is the state of the sludge build up, inside should be clean

 

Taking the filter tree off and giving it all a clean out inside would be an easy fix.

 

If you have already run it a few times on low oil pressure the damage may already be done

the oil check-valves and orifices for the heads are mounted in the block deck and is not something you can get to easily...it requires removal of the heads.

 

 

oil pressure in the rest of the block is probably fine, otherwise the engine would have seized by now.

 

A very good engine flush (eg. with a combo of diesel + acetone) may work things loose, but it can also make things (much) worse

This kind of flush is best left to a specialist so it can be done in a controlled way and aborted as soon as any other noises/damage start to surface.