Car had an MOT today, as usual the guy was amazed at the cars condition, well except for this:-

 

 

The part circled in red is worn, so need to order a replacement.

 

What part is it?

Rear HICAS ball joint :)

Not so nice to change by all accounts.

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2503

 

Be sure it is this part that's worn though. Is it visually worn or is there play in the wheel?

I've just replaced the actually inner rack arms on mine, that's where my play was, but easily mistaken to be the outer joint.

Edited June 10, 201510 yr by lonezedder

You can see it wobbling about when you move the wheel mate.

 

Today hasn't been good, car cut out 3 times on the way home, just like there is no fuel.

 

Just had a new fuel pump and injectors as well, hooked up to Datascan and the fuel pump relay is working ok, checked with a voltmeter and the pump is defo getting power.

 

After the car sits for half an hour it will drive again for a couple miles then the revs just die and it cuts out again.

 

Any idea mate? Had the AA out and he reckoned fuel pump was the culprit, it has a series 2 PTU as I mind the Series 1's used to cause issues.

 

I'm not the best mechanic in the world though lol so I'm not sure what to check.

Bummer.

The symptoms you describe can well be a failing PTU and although the S2 PTUs were a massive improvement, I have heard they can still fail like anything else. In fact what am I saying, have just had a series 2 PTU fail on me back in April and replaced with a brand new one from CZP.

When it failed, my car behaved like yours is now, after a cool down it would start, then within 3-4miles it would cut out and repeat....

 

Assuming your car still has its original loom, your probably running a S1 to S2 adaptor harness which means its very easy to swap your PTU back to an S1 PTU just to prove if that is the cause. I say this because S1 PTUs are cheap to buy second hand or people don't mind lending them out.

When it dies and won't restart, you could plug a couple of plugs to check if they are getting wet with fuel, then at least you have a starting point to work with.

What made him suggest the fuel pump?

When it dies and won't restart, you could plug a couple of plugs to check if they are getting wet with fuel, then at least you have a starting point to work with.

What made him suggest the fuel pump?

 

You'd have to ask him lol, he checked the pump was getting power, that the relay was working etc, checked some other stuff, then said pump failure.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I'm not sure what Zed guys are near me, will need to try and find out.

You've only recently had the pump and injectors replaced haven't you? Along with a remap?

I'd possibly start by returning the car to that garage to confirm the new pump is faulty.

You've only recently had the pump and injectors replaced haven't you? Along with a remap?

I'd possibly start by returning the car to that garage to confirm the new pump is faulty.

 

Only slight issue is I supplied them with the pump, they did the labour, so I could see me getting hit with more charges?

 

Plus they are 20 odd miles away, so would take about a day to get there at present stop/starting lol.

Does your Datascan record any particular fault code when the car dies?

No fault codes at all mate.

Yup, that's your HICAS outer joint. It's pressed into the rear knuckle, so you'll need to take the whole assembly out for it to be put in a press. There's also a seal cover on the back end (you might be able to reuse them). They are a genuine Nissan-only part. If your hex nut gets damaged on removal, then you'll need to order that separately as this is not supplied with the ball joint itself.

Your engine symptoms sound just like the car Andy and I worked on yesterday. Turned out to be a knackered CAS.

It is possible to replace these in situ. Not ideal i know, but doable.

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161408-Outer-HICAS-ball-joints.

 

By the way, that looks like damage on your rear tyre!

You can do it in site piece off cake if you have heat use oxy and acetylene warm the **** up pops out no problem then make some tubing and washers to pull it back in syko