just wondering at what power level does a 300zx become just to much for the public road as in its just not usable on the street just wondering what people think

 

500bhp 600bhp 700bbp 800bhp looking at power at the wheels

Edited February 10, 201510 yr by dan300zx

My boost controller wasn't working correctly so I can't really answer that - Plus I've been driving round with a large air leak, so not exactly been boosting right. Would need to confirm these kind of things once it's remapped (god knows when that'll be).

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

To be honest, for me, it's just good to have a fully working car, and that's the best thing

yes having ye car off the road for ages sucks who build your engine was it full rebuilt ? also what south bend clutch do you have? is it a on off style clutch or is it progressive

Phil in Manchester built the engine, what do you mean by fully built though?

 

I'm not sure exactly which southbend clutch it is (would need to check) but got it from concept Z. I've had loads of clutches and I like this one though, very stock feeling.

In the past I've had (and probably still have in the garage), a Z1 clutch which didn't last too long, an RPS Street max which is a nice stock feeling clutch, and a few puck clutches but I hate the whole on/off thing, made the car crap to drive for me.

rebuild as in stripped down to and build from the ground up . did the rps steet max hold the power you are pushing I was looking it to that clutch

I think the original question is hard to answer, in the Scottish Highlands the roads are long, open and wide, making my car feel underpowered. Some of the roads I drive in the north east can make an mx5 feel overpowered.

 

The other side of it is that big power will start to require race levels of servicing and components. My car is in a great place right now, 400 and a lot horsepower, from really low down, a good smattering of suspension, cooling and brake mods etc. It drives normally and is also mega fast, it is getting to the point where full throttle is a carefully planned affair. It may not have the biggest numbers on the forum, but it is at least 450hp at the engine, it has power very low down, great response. It has driven 1200 miles since Thursday and never batted an eyelid.

 

In short 450 fwhp isn't too much and is subjectively definitely enough.

 

Edit, the conpetition clutch 6 puck is great (can be driven normally) and works with the xtd flywheel really well.

I have not been in a powerful z shame you wasn't closer really. whats the sec on your build so far

Short list

Power

twin apexis, twin MAFs Selin

2.5 inch pipes

bell SMICs

Auto turbos at 16.5psi (and they have been for 20'000 miles)

Deletes

new wiring loom

new new style injectors

bcr8es

japspeed 3 inch exhaust with decats

bde recircs

Hks evc 5 ebc

Bigger radiator and oil cooler

Noz maps x2

 

Other

Xtd flywheel

comp clutch 6 puck

one piece prop

K sport 356 and 330s

meister rs

stillen arbs

 

It had 430hp at the engine quite a few mods and one remap ago, but that was on the road not on a dyno so the power will be similar to Noz' car (at the time of mapping) at about 450 engine.

 

Believe me it is fast :biggrin:

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by tomfromthenorth

wow on stock turbos to that's very good i have to say

Genuinely good points tom. It's not so much what's too fast but what's acceptable, ie input for output. Not just financially but logistically, the more highly strung you make it the more fragile you make it, theoretically of corse. 450-500 fwhp on the road and on tsp in a useable powerband than 1000rwhp that arrives in one lump chewing the best tires you can afford to pieces before spitting it's dummy over a fly it just swallowed, I'm being pedantic but you see my point. I've read from several people there car was more fun at 500 than 600-700 simply because it was less hassle.

Noz is very good, I think my car was made on a good day mate. Auto cams and turbos are a lot different to manual ones, compared to Si Mondos shorty. A bit softer perhaps but they pull really early.

 

After my overhaul it feels a bit fitter, it is certainly smoother and the economy is at least 30mpg now. Noticeably more frufal.

Short list

Power

twin apexis, twin MAFs Selin

2.5 inch pipes

bell SMICs

Auto turbos at 16.5psi (and they have been for 20'000 miles)

Deletes

new wiring loom

new new style injectors

bcr8es

japspeed 3 inch exhaust with decats

bde recircs

Hks evc 5 ebc

Bigger radiator and oil cooler

Noz maps x2

 

Other

Xtd flywheel

comp clutch 6 puck

one piece prop

K sport 356 and 330s

meister rs

stillen arbs

 

It had 430hp at the engine quite a few mods and one remap ago, but that was on the road not on a dyno so the power will be similar to Noz' car (at the time of mapping) at about 450 engine.

 

Believe me it is fast :biggrin:

 

Do you know when it starts making boost? I'm guessing very low down?

While my eyes are fixed on the horizon mate. Ill try to film it some time. I honestly think it is at 16psi by 3000 rpm in third, even if that isn't true it is absolutely on one by then.

do you both think the z1 gt600 mite be to big then maybe better off with something smaller ie gt555 or gt535 ?

I'm not qualified to answer that tbh mate. The 600s are what I want. But as Noel said the other week he mapped a car on stockers that was on 600s it made 50 less hp but more torque and a better power curve. Maybe your better of spending what you save by not buying new tubs on manifolds and breather mods? Up to you isn't it really.

Noz is very good, I think my car was made on a good day mate. Auto cams and turbos are a lot different to manual ones, compared to Si Mondos shorty. A bit softer perhaps but they pull really early.

 

After my overhaul it feels a bit fitter, it is certainly smoother and the economy is at least 30mpg now. Noticeably more frufal.

 

what did the remap cost you ?

Through Z1 the gt600 kit is cheaper than the gt535s... There's about 100 a side difference if you choose to make your own kit, the 535s bring the cheaper, or gt2554 as they are called by garret.

i think i would like to just buy new than have some made to be honest. if i used a smaller turbo with less power i could maybe get away with out rebuilding the engine i just don't know what to do atall now

Time to reverse the question, what do you currently have, and what's your attitude to lag?

Time to reverse the question, what do you currently have, and what's your attitude to lag?

 

the car was bone stock tt auto so far i have converted it to manual fitted cat back system got rid of the stock air box fitted a generic chip the car is off the road at the mo as not long fitted the box but did drive it with the small basic mods it wasn't fast nuff for me no way having had some very fast of the mark cars Porsches and lotus and few super bikes. i don't want the power to come on like a light switch that's for sure

and don't what the turbo thresh hold to be super high

I have a zx10r, I have driven porche 997 turbos, gt3rs, caterhams, my car is the fastest car I have experienced, it feels about as fast as my yammaha fz6s2 which had 100hp.

 

Get it running with bolt ons if you haven't pulled the engine, get some miles out of your internals and turbos, get the brakes and chassis and cooling etc sorted, then after some time with it, you will know better what to do during an engine pull.

 

When I pull my engine, I will be buying a block from jimmer getting it posted to me, fit my accessories and send my turbos off to garrett for a rebuild with whatever modernisation they can offer without changing the AR. Then I will re fit it all.

 

If that is somethung Jimmer can do when tethe time comes.

 

A map is about £250 iirc

I have a zx10r, I have driven porche 997 turbos, gt3rs, caterhams, my car is the fastest car I have experienced, it feels about as fast as my yammaha fz6s2 which had 100hp.

 

Get it running with bolt ons if you haven't pulled the engine, get some miles out of your internals and turbos, get the brakes and chassis and cooling etc sorted, then after some time with it, you will know better what to do during an engine pull.

 

When I pull my engine, I will be buying a block from jimmer getting it posted to me, fit my accessories and send my turbos off to garrett for a rebuild with whatever modernisation they can offer without changing the AR. Then I will re fit it all.

 

If that is somethung Jimmer can do when tethe time comes.

 

A map is about £250 iirc

 

that's some statement tom that's for sure, dam why isn't there anyone near by with a fast 300 so i can see how it feels. i have been reading up on all this for months now and still cant find the way to go, you say your is the fastest thing you have driven, even with the stock turbos wow. i have done the cooling forgot to say and yes brakes are a must hate the stock ones with a passion

that's some statement tom that's for sure, dam why isn't there anyone near by with a fast 300 so i can see how it feels. i have been reading up on all this for months now and still cant find the way to go, you say your is the fastest thing you have driven, even with the stock turbos wow. i have done the cooling forgot to say and yes brakes are a must hate the stock ones with a passion

 

I think you're trying to boil the ocean. A boost increase alone is shocking in the difference to performance. The best thing about the VG is the torque response.

A switch to manual makes the car far more responsive and raw, again a shock for people used to the auto.

 

Then add little things like UD pulley, again a noticeable improvement.

 

Based on what you've done, I would stick to stock tubs, 2.5" ic piping and ic's, Msp manifolds,ud pulley. Stick to a cheap 2.5" exhaust setup and get a MAP.

 

The only reason I don't recommend 3" exhaust is that you'll need to change the downpipe again later if you upgrade tubs. 3" on stock tubs does give excellent results though. You need to decide to max stock setup, or just enjoy what you've built till you get used to it.

 

As Tom says, a well setup stock turbo setup is mega. Nearly all the graphs in the dyno section are noticeably laggier unless you go the whole hog :D

I think you're trying to boil the ocean. A boost increase alone is shocking in the difference to performance. The best thing about the VG is the torque response.

A switch to manual makes the car far more responsive and raw, again a shock for people used to the auto.

 

Then add little things like UD pulley, again a noticeable improvement.

 

Based on what you've done, I would stick to stock tubs, 2.5" ic piping and ic's, Msp manifolds,ud pulley. Stick to a cheap 2.5" exhaust setup and get a MAP.

 

The only reason I don't recommend 3" exhaust is that you'll need to change the downpipe again later if you upgrade tubs. 3" on stock tubs does give excellent results though. You need to decide to max stock setup, or just enjoy what you've built till you get used to it.

 

As Tom says, a well setup stock turbo setup is mega. Nearly all the graphs in the dyno section are noticeably laggier unless you go the whole hog :D

 

also i have turned the boost up to 15 psi should have said before. i still have the cats on the only thing that puts me off is if the turbos start smoking after doing more work. think i will just jump in the deep end and save up pull the engine and rebuild and bigger turbos breathing mod and keep the stock auto cams. will get the car back on the road and just drive it for a bit while i get the parts sorted out. so looking at rebuild forged piston 2.5 intake big intercoolers 3 inch system rite thro gt600r turbos 750 injectors stock cams remap ms manifolds and see how that feels see its that feel nuf power

I would get a bigger turbo than that. There's a post by gregDupree comparing tubs with breather mods, it makes an interesting read.

 

Fyi I went from stock tubs to 3071's. Wouldn't replace them with anything but an EFR setup now