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Well I took her out yesterday for a spin and she was running a bit strangely....... didn't feel like she had any power when she had warmed up to running temp.....

I bound a nice straight bit of quiet road and floored her....... felt like an NA with no kick from the turbo's at all.....

I then noticed no heat from the vents.... well slightly warm but not hot like she usually is.......

Temp gauge was at middle on stock gauge...... So carefully drove her home.....

I left it till this morning and checked the radiator....... not much water in there and the same brown sludgy muck popped out when I filled her up as earlier in the year......

It looks like oil and water mix....... So need to get a tester to see if the head gaskets are done......

I feel sick now as I don't have any funds to sort this at all......

I will be flushing out the radiator and cooling system tomorrow or friday and hoping the alloy rad isn't blocked with the muck.....

Then it is compression testing time and finally leak testing kit on the radiator to see if the head gasket has gone.....

 

What is the best head gasket to get and anyone got an idea of how much they are????

Edited by veilside01702

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

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Seems like youve ironed out some problems russ nice one!

 

Also having had an Auto zed at one point and had it converted to the good old stick shift. Best thing i did to that car.

 

keeps us posted.

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Cheers Stephen and Hollings....

done my research for today on fault code recall on the transmission ECU.... so tomorrow I shall add that to my list of things to do..... lol

I guess I need to get a slicktop TT manual............ to put in my garage and work on........lol

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

  • Author

Right, tried A/T ECU fault code procedure..... And it won't go into fault codes.... when I press the accelerator I get nothing, no flashes, nout..... ????

 

This one....

To begin a diag it is best to take a short drive 2 or 3 miles to ensure full working temperature has been obtained first.and then switch OFF the engine

With overdrive switch in on position and lever in P switch on ignition but do not start engine,the A/T lamp should lit up for about two seconds then go out.

Switch off the ignition and move selector lever to D also switch OFF the overdrive, switch the ignition ON but do not start the car.

With the ignition still ON and after more than 2 seconds move the lever to 2 follow this by switching the overdrive switch ON.Then

move the lever to 1, and set the overdrive switch to OFF.

Still with the ignition on depress the accelerator pedal fully and release it. The A/T check light will now flash the appropriate blink

code as deatiled below. After this to retrurn to normal switchOFF the ignition and move lever to P and set the overdrive back ON.

Fault codes are read as follows: A long flash indicates the start and is not to be counted

One long flash and No 1 blink long rest normal = Revolution sensor circuit fault

One long flash and No 2 blink long rest normal = Speed sensor circuit fault

One long flash and No 3 blink long rest normal = Throttle sensor circuit fault

One long flash and No 4 blink long rest normal = Shift solenoid `A` fault

One long flash and No 5 blink long rest normal = Shift Solenoid "B" fault

One long flash and No 6 blink long rest normal = Overrun clutch solenoid fault

One long flash and No 7 blink long rest normal = Lock up solenoid fault

One long flash and No 8 blink long rest normal = Gearbox fluid temerature sensor circuit fault

One long flash and No 9 blink long rest normal = Engine revolution sensor circuit fault

One long flash and No10 blink long restnormal . = Line pressure solenoid circuit fault

One long flash and 10 equall length blinks...... = All clear

NOTE

If when attempting this test no A/T check lamp operation a system check of the inhibitor switch,overdrive switch,kickdown switch or idle switch circuit will be required

all info courtsy (copy & pasted) from zedworld.co.uk on this page http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

  • Author

Another problem found and sorted out......

 

The TPS was intermittent on the closed throttle switch and was open circuit in all positions unless you pressed on the outer casing of the switch.... so internal connections were dirty / worn....

Replaced with one of my spares from the Z cave and had instant reading on meter.....

Checked for impedance of 9k, then between other TPS pins for 1k rising as throttle opened..... I could only get to 7.5k..... not the stated 9k.... linkage wouldn't go any further.... do I back off the 10mm bolt on plenum that's stopping it??

Finally I adjusted to 0.43v and switch reading closed on closed throttle...... when throttle opens the switch goes Open circuit and voltage on sensor goes to 5v.

Disconnected sensor connector, started her up, waited 3 seconds and reconnected to clear Idle Position Memory.....

I have yet to test drive her as wife gone out and left me with my 2 1/2 year old asleep on the settee.... So have to be quiet till she is back and no setting up ignition timing till then...... have my orders.... lol

At least it is another thing off the list of things that have decided to stop bloody working on my Z.....lol

Edited by veilside01702

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

TPS at 4.3v on closed throttle doesn't sound right to me unless I'm missing something. I'm guessing your decimal point is in the wrong place and you mean .43v? I believe it should be .44v on idle/closed throttle and .5v when open

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  • Author
TPS at 4.3v on closed throttle doesn't sound right to me unless I'm missing something. I'm guessing your decimal point is in the wrong place and you mean .43v? I believe it should be .44v on idle/closed throttle and .5v when open

 

That's what I said 0.43v......:whistling:

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

  • Author
TPS at 4.3v on closed throttle doesn't sound right to me unless I'm missing something. I'm guessing your decimal point is in the wrong place and you mean .43v? I believe it should be .44v on idle/closed throttle and .5v when open

 

That's what I said......:whistling:

 

And now that is sorted I got the A/T ECU to spit out a code........ of all normal...........

She does feel better driving her, but still feels...... well..... not quick..... Ignition Timing tomorrow.... so will post that up when results are in.... lol

Off for a friends Birthday meal in a while..... So back on later......

Watching my Z disintegrate on my driveway!!!

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