Going to surrey rolling road tomorrow with adl racing,

 

It's my new swb, that I'm taking,

 

13psi, fmic, z1 pg exhuast, chipped, afpr, decat, induction kit,

 

So let's have some guesses I'd like 340+bhp but will have to see

My experience is that safety mode is only cleared after ignition on/off, so weird if it alternates from run to run

I thought similar, it took either battery off or consult, to take my old zed out of safety boost,

 

But without boost solenoids how can it be limiting boost?

 

On the m25 it was doing it, intermittently

 

I think the O2 sensors aren't helping with the fueling , just remembered they were disconected when I got it,

 

I've got the green one to play with till I sort this out

O2 sensors have no bearing on fuelling other than at idle & cruise.

It's not dropping cylinders intermittently is it? Crusty old loom disconnecting when the vibrations get high.

 

These group RR days are annoying in a way, it's good because it highlights issues but you don't get time to expand on the whys, often the operator doesn't know the car so can't offer much advice. That's why having someone like Noel at the helm changes it as he can monitor the whole picture and knows the car. I know a member on here who was a bit miffed as the car fell short of 500hp due to dett the operator couldn't tell him anymore than that, kinda useless as he wanted to know what was causing the det, no AFR etc were recorded by that RR (Noel probably knows who's cars I'm discussing)

 

Save up your pennies and get it mapped mate, properly. :D

My boost controller was:

75% was 13.2 psi

Gain 18

Start gain 10.5 psi

Warning 15psi

L 10%

 

It lights up red when you hit the boost limit, as it cuts the boost it didn't do that.

 

I guess the graph would have shown a spike before cutting it too

75% for 13.2 psi? That's not right.

 

0% is will be actuator pressure.

100% is theoretically infinite pressure (IIRC 90% is maximum on the Profec B)

 

Typical set up for 13.2 psi which is very low (relatively-speaking) should be around the 30% mark on a similar set up as yours.

Last mildly modified Zed I set up with a Profec B, I think it was 51% for 16psi (stock turbos & actuators)

Thought so, my old zed's controllers never went that high.

 

Think I'll replace it with a blitz controller any way as I prefere them, re do all the plumbing and check the turbo actuators.

We had this issue with gazes car or similar anyway, the factory boost jet had been removed. So the natural pressure was 7psi, I suppose viewed as a percentage this throws things off and the higher the pressure from stock the higher the error, it's one of those accumulative errors. Question is it a large enough discrepancy to force your error.

Even taking the 3psi difference into consideration, a 75% duty cycle is way too high in this instance. 75% on a Profec should be netting relatively high boost in any circumstance, definitely higher than 13.2psi.

 

Even then, it doesn't explain the overly rich condition.

 

I'd be going through the usual: Boost leak check, confirm the map, datalogging, fit a temp MBC (they are a great diagnostic tool for EBC and boost pressure issues).

Thanks for all the help, temp mbc? Will take it into work next weekend to get some of our equipment onto, consult etc, will see if there are any names on the chip/ ecu, need to go down my storage unit to dig out my boost leak tester, as I put it away when I said I wouldn't be buying another tt...

Temporary Manual Boost Controller.

 

Names on the chip or ECU aren't important. You need to know exactly what's programmed on the chip.

Thanks should have an old manual controller around somewhere.

 

Just though it may have helped, work out if it's an off the shelf or one that's been played with,

 

Either way it's going to be coming your way in the new year.

Thanks should have an old manual controller around somewhere.

 

Just though it may have helped, work out if it's an off the shelf or one that's been played with,

 

Either way it's going to be coming your way in the new year.

 

It can give a possible indication, but anything could have been programmed onto the chip, it's impossible to state with certainty until you pull the file and analyse it. You just never know...

Sounds like a boost leak to me, maybe a loose clamp on an intercooler so intermittently leaks

You state that the knock sensor is connected but is it and the wiring loom to it working correctly. I would disconnect and put a resistor in to see if it makes a difference.

It's a shame the old girl only made 292bhp however, am I correct in thinking it made that at 0.6 bar? Its not bad power considering the boost.

 

When I had the car I have to say I always found it very peaky and it boosted hard to 1 bar from around 3500rpm. I did have a bash at improving things with the EBC but never seemed to achieve much with it so in the end I simply left it alone. Obviously its been through a couple of owners since then so god knows what settings its got in it now.

 

I always wished I'd got it to noel for a proper map and setup because I think it would have transformed it, It is very odd but my first TT which I had converted from Auto to manual I found to have much better power delivery, it was more progressive (I did put that down to it of course having auto turbos and cams). If I had used the slicktop more I would have probably done something about it but at 6k miles in 3 years I could put up with its foibles.

 

I'm really glad shes still with an enthusiastic owner who by looking at some of the threads you've put up you have got really good plans for her. Its really nice to see she still looks as smart as the day we painted her all those years ago!

My experience is that safety mode is only cleared after ignition on/off, so weird if it alternates from run to run

 

I think it's ECU-dependent. I've not really looking into it, though.

 

Some ECUs with code 34 will switch from knock maps to regular immediately just by forcing the ECU to ignore knock sensor DTC. Others, you need to switch the ignition off first...

 

On the odd problem car I've had (or ones with aftermarket knock sensors), I just tune the knock maps as it makes zero difference in the end.