I cant wait to get home from my next trip at work.im now going for three weeks again .who on here has a rev limmiter box of tricks?

SO they can make there car go rev rev pop pop bang flame bang.absolutly a must have toy.

Just brill.

Elliot breaks in the new 335 tires!!! - Burnout +…:

 

That loud?

The standard ECU (with a little help from Nistune) gives you fully customisable launch control, either based on speed (condition is speed

 

Even without Nistune, I can program launch control into the stock ECU to be used in conjunction with a switch. It just isn't adjustable, which is a shame :(

Edited August 29, 201411 yr by Noz

hand brake or clutch peddle for lunch swtch Noel? got to be handbrake hasnt it if your just wanting tp have the ocasinal fun. thats if you can switch these units on and of. then clutch switch for launch i guess.anyone?

hand brake or clutch peddle for lunch swtch Noel? got to be handbrake hasnt it if your just wanting tp have the ocasinal fun. thats if you can switch these units on and of. then clutch switch for launch i guess.anyone?

 

BeeR: Handbrake.

 

Nistune: External switch can be used in conjunction with speed setting, as well as on its own. Clutch is perfectly feasible. When a clutch switch is used without the speed setting, full-throttle flat-shifting may be possible.

 

I've never been a fan of speed-only launch control. It means you can't rev the engine past the launch RPM whilst stationary. That's why I've always used a switch. On the handbrake.

So if handbrake is up and on so is the rev limitter.i

 

 

also chaps i have sorced a chap that can get the proper ones who is in this country he will need a deposit or you can pay up front like me so done cheaper than ebay all in including pap ninty five pounds .now you got to love that thats a proper saving of 65quid and will take about a week to get to you.whos in.

Ill put his information up tonight then you can speak or just contact and pay so theres no messy group postage stuff going on just a bloody good deal.

im paying tonight.here is his emai and paypal address one of the same.

Richard cropley

Email and paypal is:cropshop76@gmail.com

Edited August 30, 201411 yr by Spin Doctor
missed stuff out

Get in just orderd mine 95quid and one week to wait.well for me three as im away.cant wait to get home.want to play.im such a child.

You can set it up on two seperate settings, for example

Say your best RPM for launch is 4k, you set that up so that the rev limit is 4k with the handbrake on. Handbrake engaged build boost(no resistance=no boost) good launch no worries over getting it just right.

Handbrake off revert to full limit if your choosing say 6.5k, so under normal driving or free reving without the handbrake you have a full rev range.

I know but id like to play.cant u set up a switch so you can choose cas as much as i like that i also like the idea of on the clutch and setting it up so 3,5k down street pop bang if on just a thought.be nice if i could choose play orspirited start

pretty decent when there's no smoke coming out before the flames

 

[video=youtube_share;iPgOzCSO9-k]

Cut of point for discount 845 pm monday night. got mine orded.

Just to touch on one point made in this thread: The Bee*R rev limiter should not be used as an alternative to the stock rev limit. The stock rev limit cuts all fuelling events at the specified RPM. This means that for an engine cycle it will run lean. Exactly the same as on overrun, the engine is simply pumping air which is perfectly safe. Running lean is an issue when cylinders are making power.

 

Spark cut should not be used on its own, the fuel has to go somewhere and at 7k RPM, there is a lot of fuel that needs to go somewhere (sump or exhaust manifold).

 

Bee*Rs have been around for a long time, I used one to great effect on the dragstrip years ago. There are a few horror stories out there, I didn't experience any issues, but then I only used it to build boost with a T70 on a 1.8L and get off the line every weekend :D

i never rev my cars anywere near the red, i understand what your saying but mine wont be set up all the way up there thats for sure. moat people ive been speaking to for fun have had them set up no more than 4.5 5.5 that all. here what your saying though. still cant wait

i never rev my cars anywere near the red, i understand what your saying but mine wont be set up all the way up there thats for sure. moat people ive been speaking to for fun have had them set up no more than 4.5 5.5 that all. here what your saying though. still cant wait

 

So you'd cut your revs whilst the car is developing maximum power? Good one, that, I'll have to remember that in the future.......

No what im saying is i never red line any or my cars i drive. And if you can set this box of trix to were you want it to sit. Then im saying i will not be setting the rev limitter /the revs/ anywhere near the red line. Is what im saying. I dont red line cars never have done and wont be starting now.

Thanks Noz, I was told by someone I trust far less than you that they were better. In that case I will not be fitting one. :thumbup1:

Just to touch on one point made in this thread: The Bee*R rev limiter should not be used as an alternative to the stock rev limit. The stock rev limit cuts all fuelling events at the specified RPM. This means that for an engine cycle it will run lean. Exactly the same as on overrun, the engine is simply pumping air which is perfectly safe. Running lean is an issue when cylinders are making power.

 

Spark cut should not be used on its own, the fuel has to go somewhere and at 7k RPM, there is a lot of fuel that needs to go somewhere (sump or exhaust manifold).

 

Bee*Rs have been around for a long time, I used one to great effect on the dragstrip years ago. There are a few horror stories out there, I didn't experience any issues, but then I only used it to build boost with a T70 on a 1.8L and get off the line every weekend :D

 

Right so does this mean that in normal instances ie acceleration, the lean condition created by the stock fuel method causes no issue as power is taken away from the driveline as you will changing gear anyway. The only time the Ignition cut method is of use is when you are expecting to hold on that limit, for example drift cars where they will hold the gear and bounce off the limiter.

Or when the clutch is down as you cange gear and when only if u reach the limmet of were you set it.

Should you wire up there. Still eould be nice to have it switchable so you can choice to use it on clutch or h brake.

Here howard good news our toys are here and will be in the post tomorow .intime for you to play at the weekend.

Right so does this mean that in normal instances ie acceleration, the lean condition created by the stock fuel method causes no issue as power is taken away from the driveline as you will changing gear anyway. The only time the Ignition cut method is of use is when you are expecting to hold on that limit, for example drift cars where they will hold the gear and bounce off the limiter.

 

Sorry, missed this post.

 

I'm not sure I understand your question, there shouldn't be any lean condition during acceleration.

Sorry, I was under the impression that under certain scenarios; for example drifting, when the power may be expected to be on inside the rev limiter at times, when they slide round the corner on the rev limiter. In this instance the car is under load and still trying to apply power(I guess you could call that shitty driving). I guess thats nonsense then?

ECUs use hysteresis when the RPM level reaches the limit, meaning the engine speed must drop a certain amount before injection cycles begin again. This is adjustable with some Motronic ECUs I've worked with.

 

In the scenario you gave, the power output will be oscillating between xxxbhp (fuel injected) and zero bhp (fuel cut), hence speed remains fairly constant. It is impossible for an engine to make power when fuel has been cut to all cylinders.

 

But yeah, shitty driving :wack:

Edited September 10, 201411 yr by Noz

Haha makes perfect sense. Use the same principal on various controllers at work, otherwise they would be on and off so quick it would cause damage.

Wee notice to anyone unlucky enough to buy Bee R rev limiters from Mr Cropley. They are snides. Fresh from China. Main reason I'm posting this is that I don't want Howard fitting this piece of crap as part of his amazing build :no:

 

Placed one side-by-side with a genuine example today and there are obvious differences. Plus, the fake didn't work properly (hence it had been removed, not by me). Packaging is completely different, too.

 

If you HAVE to fit one, at least get a genuine one. These items control your engine's rev limit! RRP is here: http://www.nengun.com/bee-r/rev-limiter Bulk price for 12 is £1389.27, or £115 each.

 

You're not getting genuine for circa £80 I'm afraid. Plus, the seller has disclosed they are from China, 100% :laugh:

 

If you must buy China, buy direct @ "fotty-fiy dorrar": http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rev-Limiter-BEE-R/324363_254708643.html :chinese:

 

You got rinsed. I would be :cursing:

 

Be careful out there....

Yeah, just don't buy of these pointless pieces of crap, fake or not! lol :)

So, Mr Funky....

 

Are you "loving some of this" now?