HI All,

 

I was trying to get one problem sorted at a time but with the imminent bad weather looming over the north east thought i may need to post up about this one now.

 

When i bought the car i noticed that i couldn't get the air to blow no matter on low or high setting. Now my last Zed was a 1995 and had the twisty knob for the blowers and slider for the temperature. Now with my new car being a 1991 it has the full climate thing going on. It worked once when i started the car after being for Petrol for a few seconds then stopped and again at another point for a few seconds and stopped. Now it just won't blow at all.

 

I don't know much about this setup but have a feeling the Zed may have been prone to issues with this since they changed it to a manual setup '95 onwards (seems weird to reel back a car like this to a manual setup for a newer model)

 

I figured if anyone knows what could be wrong it'd be you guys.

 

Any ideas?

 

I fin't it hard enough to get blown these days as it is without the Zed letting me down too :(

 

Peter

Check the relays and fuses for the system.

Could be a dodgy really by the sounds of it. Switch it out for a known good one to check (IIRC the headlight relays are the same type).

Ok. Checked the air con fuse and relay under the bonnet. Fuse is fine and tried what you said with the headlight relay and that was fine. Are there any fuses under the dash for the blowers? My fuse box cover under the dash is in Japanese so have no idea what they are for.

HI All,

 

I don't know much about this setup but have a feeling the Zed may have been prone to issues with this since they changed it to a manual setup '95 onwards (seems weird to reel back a car like this to a manual setup for a newer model)

Peter

 

This is not the case, the later cars were subject to cut backs to make them cheaper to produce as the market got tougher and sales were falling.

Certain features which were always standard became optional extras such as digital climate, electric seats and cruise.

They even went as far as making the carpets thinner and of a lesser quality!

MG/Rover did a similar thing back in 2004.

Take a look at this....

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175063-n-a-fuse-box-markings&highlight=fuses

 

Although I would be surprised if it were a fuse because of the fact it sometimes works again.

It could be a problem with the control pod or even the specific ECU which is near clutch pedal behind the dash.

 

Can you remember on the couple of times it did work if the fan sounded healthy enough? I know these cars are getting on, but the electronics are pretty reliable, especially the in car stuff that isn't subjected to the crazy engine bay temps. Maybe the fan motor is faulty?

Edited July 21, 201411 yr by lonezedder

The fan plug when undone from the motor is getting 0.5v so don't think it will be the fuse.

Daft question, have you pressed auto. I take it your control pod is a true series 1, which as no directional button just a HI and LO.

Just in case, set temp to min, press auto, then press HI, see if it works.

If you know all this then I apologise!

Nope, any help appreciated.

 

Done that and no difference.

 

Also checked the air con codes using the self diagnostic thing by holding OFF and AUTO and there are no sensor type faults detected

Apparently the blower has a fan amplifier control circuit thing for the auto air con. This could be what's malfunctioning as the voltage to the fan motor does not change except from off to on. No change on fan blower voltage from off to low to high. Anyone know where this is so it can be checked?

So is the fuse in box by the throttle pedal ok then?

So, we'll assume the fan motor is ok, because 0.5v isn't going to power it.

You've swapped the relay with a known working one and if the fuse is ok its looking like the control pod or specific ECU.

Another silly one, have you pulled the pod forward and checked the wiring/plugs etc?

The control amp is the specific ECU thingy I've mentioned. It is behind the dash to the left of the clutch pedal.

Here you go...

Ok some good replies there but your getting a bit bogged down in the technical circuitry, the power problem starts in the fuse box by the accelerator pedal. There are two fuses for the heater blower, these remain without power until the heater blower is activated from the pod, a relay in the fuse box ( rear) energises and powers up both fuses. So the start point is to check these two fuses are powered up when the heater pod is activated. The chances are they will not be, the relay on the rear of the fuse box is most likely corroded and has a poor contact, this is why sometimes it will work. Failed pods or heater ecu is rare so the next thing to do is to remove the fuse box and check out the rear relays and connections, also check the targa drain pipe as this is the most common reason for the relays/ fuse box to corrode. Will see if I can find some of my pictures of this job from some early tech threads of mine and will add them back here.

 

Ok here is the links for fuse box removaL and targa drain fix

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168050-Fusebox-corrossion-targa-drains-and-a-broken-neck&highlight=fuse+box

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?146736-Another-targa-drain-tech&highlight=fusebox

 

Jeff TT

Edited July 21, 201411 yr by JeffTT

The box itself...

Looks like you might be right Jeff. Checked the fuse and it's only getting half a volt when the pod is switched on.