Zed came home on a truck last night

 

 

 

For those that missed my other thread, it's probably all related

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?176878-Problems-Problems-Problems

 

I think I haven't bled it properly after changing the water pipe the other night, so last night whilst on a spirited drive I once again lost all the water, only this time it was smoking like a chimney, people 5 cars back were getting it through the windows, thick white smoke.

 

My temp gauge never got in the red, infact I think it may of even been higher during Sunday's incident, although that could of been due to the speed I was going and the wind keeping it cold.

 

Anyway pulled over, and switched it off, wisps of smoke coming from the top of the engine itself, opened the rad cap expecting the worse, and low and behold, no water to be seen.

 

I was prepared though so had a few litres in the car just incase, started pouring it in and it wasn't getting very far before it was bubbling back out the rad cap. eventually some was starting to stay in, but worried that it wasn't circulating, decided to start it up, and it sounded rough as a badgers arse, didn't sound like it was running on all 6 at all.

 

So quickly knocked it off, and just slowly continued feeding it water.

 

I rang the AA and organised someone to come out and have a look, so while we waited we had plenty of time to let it cool. The water we were getting in seemed to be holding, the pipe that had been fitted looked bone dry, so the water didn't leak out the back, it appeared to have come from the front, possibly the rad cap itself, or the overflow, it looked as though it had hit the fan, and sprayed across the water pipes behind it, they're still stained a nice brown now.

 

After it cooled a good bit I started it again to circle some water and try and access the damage, And surprisingly it sounded fine, just as normal, the smoke out the back was a little more than normal, and there was a lot of water coming out, it was spraying on the floor. but other than that it seemed ok.

 

The water in the rad cap was looking a little shiny in the torch light, possible oil contamination, but can't be sure, it could just be some k-seal from previous years, the water's never looked clean in there.

 

Anyway, the recovery bloke came and agreed that it was probably best it wasn't driven home so he agreed to put it on the back of his truck.

 

My AA policy covered me for 10 mile recovery, and I was around 22miles away, but by the grace of God the admin office seemed to think I was only 7.5 miles from home so they gave the bloke the ok to take me all the way home.

 

(AA policy the best £40 I've ever spent)

 

I've had a look at the car when I finished work to try and start to asses the damage, Between me and my friends last night, we came up with a few possible scenarios,

 

Head gasket gone, would explain all the steam out the exhaust, and the possible oil in the radiator.

 

Turbo's starved of water so seals burnt out, also explain all the steam.

 

I've checked the intercooler hoses for signs of oil or water and the two into the butterfly valves were bone dry, bone dry last night, and bone dry after I ran it for a bit earlier on. there is a white powdery residue on the roof of them, but no idea how long that's been there, or if its related,

 

The bottom hose seems to have a greasy residue on there, but not covered in it, not sure if that's worrying or not.

 

When I ran it earlier it sounded fine as normal, and the smoke out the back didn't seem any more excessive than any other cold start.

 

However I have found what appears to be a fuel leak from a hose/pipe under the plenum at the front.

 

 

Not sure if it is fuel, it does smell like it, a little hard to get a finger in though. guessing this would of been caused from excessive heat.

 

I've taken a video again.

 

 

Shows it a lot better, can actually see the drips, looks like a good bit is coming out.

 

 

As for the Turbo smoke, For the last few weeks it has been pointed out to me that the fumes have been getting progressively worse, white smoke coming out, some people have said not to worry it's just condensation, when It has been noticed it seems to be after I've just washed the car so some water will have been sprayed up the exhaust (not intentionally though). So not sure weather this is a sign of the turbo's been on there way out or not.

 

 

Anyway after all that waffle can anybody help? some ways to try and diagnose problems? or just ways to rule out others?

 

I don't have too much confidence in me and my friends changing a head gasket or a rebuild for that matter, especially just after the timing belt's been done. Not that I don't think they're capable, a few of them are full time mechanics, it's just due to it been done on my drive, and the probability of something been overlooked or missed.

 

As for professional help, not sure how much Jeff would be willing to take on and Jimmer is miles away so I can only assume that between transporting the car to either one and then diagnostics, parts and labour I can only guess I'd be looking to part with a couple of grand.

 

So as much as it saddens me to say it, I may actually be better off cutting my losses, selling up or breaking it, getting rid of my daily drive and buying an S15.

 

I know that's not what everyone will be wanting to hear, and before the vultures start circling no decision's will be made until problems have been diagnosed.

 

For all I know the fuel leak may be the only thing wrong with it and I may still get to enjoy the summer in it.

 

Atleast it didn't set on fire though, every cloud eh...

I apologise for the portrait ratio on the video, can't figure out how to change it, really annoys me....

Sorry to hear this stevie, hope you get sorted and keep the zed. Can't really help with the problem but my slicktop overheated and was loosing water it turned out to be the water pump. I couldn't ever find a leak but had the smoke symptoms.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

May not be that bad buddy, so don't give up yet!!

 

Hoping for the best anyhow :winkiss:

That indeed is a fuel leak, the connecting hose between the two fuel rails under the front of the plenum, although not alot of room if its the clips you should be able to access the screw head, if its split then throttle bodies and linkeage off.

 

Doesnt explain the water leak but would explain the rough running and possibly smoke

first things first, dont drive it until you figure out whats going on, get on ebay and get your self this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Block-test-kit-for-petrol-and-diesel-engines-original-combustion-leak-tester-/181059430832?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a27fba9b0 block tester, when it arrives, make sure the water isnt brimming at the top of the rad, start the car with the rad cap removed, keep an eye on the engine temp, poor the blue liquid into the glass tube and put the pump on the top of it, stick it then into the rad top up, crimp the small over flow pipe and start hand pumping, it will draw air up through the glass tube and the liquid, if the liquid turns green then you have a blown head gasket.

 

If all turns out ok, then its time to start trouble shooting, if your water pump is old, get a new one (around £100) and a new thermostat, and change them, id also get a after market water temp gauge installed as this will at least give you a temperature number, rather than a needle that doesn't start moving until the engine is pretty much over heating.

 

Id check to make sure that the heater matrix isnt leaking behind the dash, check both foot wells for wet carpets / brown staining

your cars to good 2break stevie, i'l help sort sumit out with getting your car to someone who knows zeds!!

That indeed is a fuel leak, the connecting hose between the two fuel rails under the front of the plenum, although not alot of room if its the clips you should be able to access the screw head, if its split then throttle bodies and linkeage off.

 

Doesnt explain the water leak but would explain the rough running and possibly smoke

 

So no plenum off? that's reassuring at least.

 

first things first, dont drive it until you figure out whats going on, get on ebay and get your self this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Block-test-kit-for-petrol-and-diesel-engines-original-combustion-leak-tester-/181059430832?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a27fba9b0 block tester, when it arrives, make sure the water isnt brimming at the top of the rad, start the car with the rad cap removed, keep an eye on the engine temp, poor the blue liquid into the glass tube and put the pump on the top of it, stick it then into the rad top up, crimp the small over flow pipe and start hand pumping, it will draw air up through the glass tube and the liquid, if the liquid turns green then you have a blown head gasket.

 

If all turns out ok, then its time to start trouble shooting, if your water pump is old, get a new one (around £100) and a new thermostat, and change them, id also get a after market water temp gauge installed as this will at least give you a temperature number, rather than a needle that doesn't start moving until the engine is pretty much over heating.

 

Id check to make sure that the heater matrix isnt leaking behind the dash, check both foot wells for wet carpets / brown staining

 

 

All seems dry inside, so think the matrix is ok. As for the block test, my mate is bringing a similar bit of kit from his work at the weekend so we'll get that done.

 

If it was air locked, is there a possibility of it coming out the rad cap or from the overflow?

 

Here's the stains on the front,

 

 

And here's what the water looks like

 

 

Did notice that the electric fan at the front of the radiator didn't kick in, so I'm guessing that's buggered too. come to mention it I don't think I've ever heard it go.

your cars to good 2break stevie, i'l help sort sumit out with getting your car to someone who knows zeds!!

 

Cheers bud, that could be a real life saver.

 

And thanks for all the well wish's guys.

easy way to check the fan, put the key in the ignition, turn to the on position with out starting the engine, and remove the yellow connector off the front water pipe (or in your case, the brown soaked 2 wire one) as it comes out of the engine, you should hear the fan turn on.

I'll give that a go vods.

Shiney bits in the water look to me like the cooper particles you get in k seal

If it has not already been suggested, I would get a reliable compression test done.

I know this should be done ideally with a warm engine but maybe a good place to start.

Also, what does the oil look like? Look in the filler neck and at the dipstick for creamy deposits.

When you get chance, I would completely flush the system out until the water runs clean, these motors run on the threshold as it is.

A good clean cooling system is imperative.

Another thing to check would be the viscous coupling, especially as we have had some warm weather of late.

I hope that the engine responds well when you next fire it up, hopefully nothing major has happened.

Shiney bits in the water look to me like the cooper particles you get in k seal

 

That's what I thought, in the dark last night it was touch and go, but with daylight it does look a lot more like k-seal.

 

If it has not already been suggested, I would get a reliable compression test done.

I know this should be done ideally with a warm engine but maybe a good place to start.

Also, what does the oil look like? Look in the filler neck and at the dipstick for creamy deposits.

When you get chance, I would completely flush the system out until the water runs clean, these motors run on the threshold as it is.

A good clean cooling system is imperative.

Another thing to check would be the viscous coupling, especially as we have had some warm weather of late.

I hope that the engine responds well when you next fire it up, hopefully nothing major has happened.

 

 

The oil from the dipstick looked fine, and the level didn't look like it had changed since the last time I checked it.

 

I've never actually had a compression test done the whole time I've had the car. I'll do some research and put it on the list of things to do.

Don't give up on it yet though, it was my car of the month when you entered it

Start at the beginning and work forward.

 

Pull all the plugs, have a good look and listen to the bores, you can turn the engine over by hand whilst doing this. It should sound smooth and you should be able to hear each piston. If they all turn nicely and nothing horrid happens, then do a compression test cold. You will need a fully charged battery.

 

If that passes, plugs in. Fluids topped up, check for visible leaks and fix as required. You've cooked old pipes twice now and the next weakest link is likely to have popped. Get that sorted get it circulating and bled out. Get hold of consult or similar and watch the water temp here as the engine warms up to operational temperature. Keep a close eye of those hoses for leaks etc as it gets hot and pressure builds.

 

After that you can begin problem solving.

 

It's possible you will fail before this, but keep you head level and start from the beginning. You've covered your engine in steaming hot coolant now, it won't have made it happy. What concerns me is the exhaust vapours. Btw you could potentially run the tubs without coolant lines it wouldn't kill them that quick.

Start at the beginning and work forward.

 

Pull all the plugs, have a good look and listen to the bores, you can turn the engine over by hand whilst doing this. It should sound smooth and you should be able to hear each piston. If they all turn nicely and nothing horrid happens, then do a compression test cold. You will need a fully charged battery.

 

If that passes, plugs in. Fluids topped up, check for visible leaks and fix as required. You've cooked old pipes twice now and the next weakest link is likely to have popped. Get that sorted get it circulating and bled out. Get hold of consult or similar and watch the water temp here as the engine warms up to operational temperature. Keep a close eye of those hoses for leaks etc as it gets hot and pressure builds.

 

After that you can begin problem solving.

 

It's possible you will fail before this, but keep you head level and start from the beginning. You've covered your engine in steaming hot coolant now, it won't have made it happy. What concerns me is the exhaust vapours. Btw you could potentially run the tubs without coolant lines it wouldn't kill them that quick.

 

Yeah it's the exhaust vapours I'm concerned about too, If the head gasket isn't gone, and the turbo seals haven't then where else could the water be getting into the exhaust?

 

It all sounds simple written down, but I think it's going to take a lot of time over the next week or so.

I think we will find the answer to that out before we have to ask that question.

well that doesn't sound too reassuring :crying:

any updates?

None yet. Weather's been terrible so haven't even looked at it. Thought I'd drown my sorrows with southern comfort, shisha pipe and broken arrow.

 

Hopefully get the fuel leak sorted and the head gasket test done over the bank holiday weekend.

Also check the front pipes behind the aluminium hard water pipes , it might explain the staining on them

if the exhaust is pluming white smoke the diagnosis isnt good,get a block tester and do a test.

Had a go at the fuel leak earlier, thought it would be better to do that before the block test, other wise I'd be pissing fuel out all over and it may even set on fire.

 

Am I right in saying I can just take off the full throttle assembly to access that hose? If so how the hell do I get this bolt?

 

 

Thought if I removed the timing belt cover the backing plate maybe removable without disturbing the belt, but then cam across this one.

 

 

Any help guys?

 

I've removed the two bolts that were in the red rings, and I've removed the 4 bolts around each of the butterfly valves, what else do I need to remove?

The front water pipes have to come off as well I'm afraid.