I have been chasing a problem with my TT engine for a few weeks now - started as a knock on 6, so I stripped the bottom end out with the car on the ramp to investigate
Sure enough, No 6 big end bearing was shot... even though it was a very "new" ACL and the rest were fine. I concluded the crank was scored and needed a fuller investigation, so out came the box, and everything else to pull the crank.
Took it to my engine builder who inspected and concluded that the journals were still in limits and after a polish could be used.
Yet the mystery of why no 6 was shot when the rest were fine bugged me.
After some really careful inspection I have concluded that at some point before I owned her, a mystery bolt must have found its way into the bottom end, been clunked by the con rod, hit the bottom of the no 6 cylinder (there is a witness mark of threads "stamped" into the wall at the very bottom of the bore - looks like m6) and bent the cheek of the conrod making the big end slightly oval and pinching the bearing causing massive heat and premature wear.
I have been trying to get this car on the road for so so long, and done so much to her, to now find this is really depressing.. I don't know if I can trust anything about the internals at this point. Plus I get smoke on the over run which is suggesting valve seals - even more work...
I am so fed up at this point.
My options seem to be:
strip out the top of the engine, remove piston to get the rod and cap to a machine shop for boring or replacing and change the valve stem seals - which will take weeks of weekends.
or
does any one have a half reasonable manual TT engine that I can quickly stick in to get me on the road, and then I can build up a really decent engine in slower time to stick in later
I have been chasing a problem with my TT engine for a few weeks now - started as a knock on 6, so I stripped the bottom end out with the car on the ramp to investigate
Sure enough, No 6 big end bearing was shot... even though it was a very "new" ACL and the rest were fine. I concluded the crank was scored and needed a fuller investigation, so out came the box, and everything else to pull the crank.
Took it to my engine builder who inspected and concluded that the journals were still in limits and after a polish could be used.
Yet the mystery of why no 6 was shot when the rest were fine bugged me.
After some really careful inspection I have concluded that at some point before I owned her, a mystery bolt must have found its way into the bottom end, been clunked by the con rod, hit the bottom of the no 6 cylinder (there is a witness mark of threads "stamped" into the wall at the very bottom of the bore - looks like m6) and bent the cheek of the conrod making the big end slightly oval and pinching the bearing causing massive heat and premature wear.
I have been trying to get this car on the road for so so long, and done so much to her, to now find this is really depressing.. I don't know if I can trust anything about the internals at this point. Plus I get smoke on the over run which is suggesting valve seals - even more work...
I am so fed up at this point.
My options seem to be:
strip out the top of the engine, remove piston to get the rod and cap to a machine shop for boring or replacing and change the valve stem seals - which will take weeks of weekends.
or
does any one have a half reasonable manual TT engine that I can quickly stick in to get me on the road, and then I can build up a really decent engine in slower time to stick in later
or
take up cross stich and forget about it