Well I replaced my N/S turbo's gasket between elbow and turbo some time ago when I had a nightmare and dropped something down into the turbo...... A Socket!!!

I noticed yesterday that I had a large blow on the exhaust and felt the leak with my hand down the back of the battery and engine....

I took it all apart today and found the gasket I had fitted when I got the turbo off was........ well....... upside down........ doh!!!!!

Looks like I just fitted it and thought it only goes one way up..... but it doesn't and blows like mad..... it even looked okay when I fitted it, but doesn't seal......

 

I even rang up JeffTT for some advice and he suggested that I may have either left a piece of old gasket or put a washer in between by mistake..... I wasn't even that clever ( bloody upside down gasket, mumble, curse, mumble).... lol

Thanks for the advice and support again Jeff............ I rushed it and paid the price..... lol

 

So now have another new gasket fitted and it no longer sounds like a tractor...... Yay..... lol

Hopefully now it won't stink inside the car of fumes and fuel economy may be better....

 

Now all I need is a timing strobe to set her up..... as the ebay one i bought turned up DOA and just does bugger all........

Doh!!! Glad you got it sorted, the timing light if using an induction type you need to have the loop open, see below an old post of mine.

 

 

So starting with the light type, the Draper one shown here is an induction xenon light, prices range from £20 to £40 so well worth looking around Ebay is the best place.

 

 

The unit is designed to collect its trigger signal from HT leads via the clamp sensor, of course our zeds use direct coil packs so there are no plug leads, but no worries as the coil packs emit emf (electric magnetic fields / force ) each time they trigger and the timing light sensor can pick up this and use it to flash the xenon light at the correct time, however the sensor jaw must be open so here you can see a cable tie is used to keep it apart.

 

 

 

So now the easy bit, the induction sensor sits really nice in the coil pack well, make sure the silver sticker is facing forward as its more sensative this way around

 

 

Hooking up the light to the battery, connect the red clip to the 12v live terminal and the black clip to the plenum earth point this we find gives a cleaner supply ( electronic wise ) and hence a brighter consitant flash.

 

 

So we know the correct timing is 15 deg tdc this of course is at normal operating temperature, below the picture shows the light been pointed at the crank pulley where the timing marks can be seen, in the picture the engine was NOT up to temp and hence is showing an advance of timing, this is normal and will reduce as the engine warms up.

 

 

So if any adjustments are needed the cas unit (crank angle sensor ) will need the three 10 mm bolts slacking off and the unit rotating either right to retard or to the left to advance, once correct lock them up and your done, occassionally after the timing has been adjusted the tick over may need trimming, the timing been correct is essential to get the best prerformance and best mpg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff TT

Edited April 5, 201411 yr by JeffTT

i splashed out and bought a good timing light that clamps around the wire feed to the coil pack and it gets its trigger from that with ease. no need to have it clamped open or leaning against the coil pack :)

 

If you using the 3 wire power power lead to the coil pack you need to be aware of the following:

 

Harmonic disruption cause by trigger and earth lead proximity can lead to small inaccuracy in individual cars electrical system, dc power feed and trigger feed with in the same cable can create ac rectification that at best add a few milliseconds to the trigger action of the timing light strike but this can be enough to give a possible retarded signal but show correct.

 

Close field sensing does not attract any ac rectification, real time pulsing count with no trailing or drop outs so gives consistent accuracy from car to car, zeds use what is now considered a very basic ignition system and for the DIY owner especially do not need to over pay for many bits of testing equipment,

 

 

 

Power tuning guide for clamp type light guns

 

The characteristic harmonics are based on the

number of rectifiers (pulse number) used in a circuit

and can be determined by the following equation:

h = (n x p) ±1

where: n = an integer (1, 2, 3, 4, 5 …)

p = number of pulses or rectifiers

For example, using a 6 pulse rectifier, the

characteristic harmonics will be:

h = (1 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 5th & 7th harmonics

h = (2 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 11th & 13th harmonics

h = (3 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 17th & 19th harmonics

h = (4 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 23rd & 25th harmonics

Thanks Jeff...... Got my timing light from ebay...... a nice sealed one with advance........ connected to car and bugger all light......... dead as a doornail.... tested leads and circuit and it is fried......

So emailed the seller who has offered a refund, but almost as much to send it back to him as refund...... love the way people sell items as fully working without really checking they do work......

So going to rebuild it as it is a nice metal cased one...... just trying to find someone local to me to borrow one tomorrow...... Saying that I just had idea of a friend.....hmmmmmm

It needs doing as she tries to stall in reverse for some reason and I nearly reversed into my lounge trying to keep the revs up coming up my driveway...... lol

I need to know what it is set at as I guessed when doing the CAS and went by ear......lol

 

Hopefully dry tomorrow morning and I can take her out for a test drive after I dump the water from the engine and replace with fresh antifreeze now I have flushed out all that crap I had when I thought the head gasket had gone...... lol

Doh!!! Glad you got it sorted, the timing light if using an induction type you need to have the loop open, see below an old post of mine.

 

 

So starting with the light type, the Draper one shown here is an induction xenon light, prices range from £20 to £40 so well worth looking around Ebay is the best place.

 

 

The unit is designed to collect its trigger signal from HT leads via the clamp sensor, of course our zeds use direct coil packs so there are no plug leads, but no worries as the coil packs emit emf (electric magnetic fields / force ) each time they trigger and the timing light sensor can pick up this and use it to flash the xenon light at the correct time, however the sensor jaw must be open so here you can see a cable tie is used to keep it apart.

 

 

 

So now the easy bit, the induction sensor sits really nice in the coil pack well, make sure the silver sticker is facing forward as its more sensative this way around

 

 

Hooking up the light to the battery, connect the red clip to the 12v live terminal and the black clip to the plenum earth point this we find gives a cleaner supply ( electronic wise ) and hence a brighter consitant flash.

 

 

So we know the correct timing is 15 deg tdc this of course is at normal operating temperature, below the picture shows the light been pointed at the crank pulley where the timing marks can be seen, in the picture the engine was NOT up to temp and hence is showing an advance of timing, this is normal and will reduce as the engine warms up.

 

 

So if any adjustments are needed the cas unit (crank angle sensor ) will need the three 10 mm bolts slacking off and the unit rotating either right to retard or to the left to advance, once correct lock them up and your done, occassionally after the timing has been adjusted the tick over may need trimming, the timing been correct is essential to get the best prerformance and best mpg.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff TT

This is what I was using Jeff...... Nice write up and good pics...... again I searched for FAQ's you had posted answers to.....